I'm a smoke screen

themiller13

New Member


Here is the video recorded by my potato
http://youtu.be/vVk05eLSCME

Above is a photo of my smoke I will upload and attach the video [added] when I'm on a computer. I noticed it when the car was already at operating temp and I drove it to eat. As I come back and start it. Poof smoke. It puffs out after it revs up then down to idle RPM for a 2 count and then it's gone. It will also smoke on rev downs after I open the throttle. I will see if it does this when it's cooled down in the morning.

The oil was changed a week ago with a 5w-30 valveoline synthetic and new filter. As the smoke blows out into a less dense cloud it turns a slight tint of blue. Which makes me think oil. Maybe the 5 weight was the wrong choice because it's thinner and leads to this problem. FWIW I'm also in Florida so ambient air temps are up too.

I know the rings aren't 100% healthy because I did a compression test about a year ago and the results were iffy. They're buried on here somewhere. They're also going to be added in. This is my main suspect for the issue.

It's a 97 with 274k on the clock. I'm pretty sure the block has never been opened.

I'm taking it into my shop tomorrow to leak down and compression test, and to inspect the coolant. I will use a gopro to see if it dumps under load as well as soon I get the chance. And it's due for a valve lash adjustment as well. Which will be done ASAP.

The only good thing about this is that I'm trying to move myself and build into a DC and out of the DB, so this might be the catalyst to get it moving.





Here's two pics so you guys know what we're dealing with. Also Mr.Gurley gets the credit for the second shot.

Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated. I'll come back with more information as I get it.
 
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Nick_C78

New Member
Valve seals does sound likely. When the motor sits the oil drips down the valves in to the combustion chamber and burns off when you start your car. Also 5w-30 does not mean 5 weight. the "w" actually means wintered, not weight. The weight is actually the 30. the 5 is just how it reacts to temperatures.
 

themiller13

New Member
Nick4dei said:
Valve seals does sound likely. When the motor sits the oil drips down the valves in to the combustion chamber and burns off when you start your car. Also 5w-30 does not mean 5 weight. the "w" actually means wintered, not weight. The weight is actually the 30. the 5 is just how it reacts to temperatures.
Click to expand...

Learning every day here. Thanks for the correction.

edit: video has been added
 


Last edited:

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Confirmed, valve guides and seals. Get the head serviced.
 


themiller13

New Member
Muckman said:
Confirmed, valve guides and seals. Get the head serviced.
Click to expand...

I know this is a shot in the dark by asking this as there are thousands of things to go wrong, but do I have an estimated time the motor will last me? I'm trying to gather the funds to nab a decent DC. And any money that goes to head work will take away from a "new" DC.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Months maybe. Depends on the amount of oil consumption.

As oil contamination gets worse it will lessen the effective octane of the fuel resulting in detonation and poor mpg. Prolonged oil consumption can melt valves, ruin piston ring seal, ruin cats etc.
 

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
274k is a breaking point.

I wouldn't buy a cheap used motor past 200k, and that's already a lot but I know I can squeeze another 100k miles out of it.


I've done it multiple times with ebay parts.

$300 used long block
$300 ebay master rebuild kit
A whole lotta elbow grease

With that recipe I can squeeze 200k out of a used engine no problem. Even when I drive like a bat out of hell.
 

themiller13

New Member
I'm probably going to ride this thing out until it dies. Mpg is still up around 26 city and it pulls decently. So for science I'll take note of the decline as it happens. Thanks for the input guys. It's much appreciated.
 
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