Sycosys
New Member
Hey guys I know I’m new here and all but I thought some of you would be interested in my NA B18C1 build. Now I’m not saying it’s something special or anything but since I started coming up with the parts list I’ve had one goal in mind a 205-215whp daily driver and a motor that will last 80,000-100,000 miles before it needs tearing down again. Up until the other day I was still undecided about valves and I still kind of am but I am pretty sure on what I have listed. I’ve been working on this list for about a month now doing constant research and decided it was time to post it up because I just ordered some parts last Friday, so If anyone has questions on why I chose certain parts I would be kind to let you know why.
Here's my project
IMAG0157 by Sycosys, on Flickr
Oh yea I almost forgot to let everyone know why this happened, well about 3 months ago shortly after putting my new clutch and lightweight flywheel in I did the infamous Money shift (3rd to 2nd for those who don’t know) sending my motor to 11,300rpm. btw this motor had 150,000 miles on it and all that happened was 5 bent exhaust valves and 5 cracked valve guides, only if my exhaust valves would of had dual springs I wouldn’t have to be doing this, lol. But now I get a lot more power so yay for me.
Thanks for checking out my build guys I’ll upload some pics when I get parts
Mahle pistons 9cc High Compression 81.25 12.5:1-13:1
These allow me to run tighter PTW clearences because they are made of 4032 alloy, their only .25mm oversize so I have extra room to overbore if I need to, and I like their side skirt coating more than Wiseco.
Brian Crower lightweight Sportsman Rods w/ARP2000 426g
I chose these because of their lightweight to make my engine more responsive and they were fairly cheap as well. also I wanted to replace the old ones that have 150,000 miles on them.
OEM Honda Main/rod bearings, thrust washers, complete set.
OEM bearings allow me to run my deisred clearences much easier.
Skunk2 Pro series Intake Manifold
It was either this or the blox and I like the quality of skunk2 products so I chose this one.
Larger throttle body but not sure what kind and size
Skunk2 Pro Valve Spring set
Because they have a lower seat pressure than most aftermarket springs which will reduce wear and they are reccomended for their line of pro cams.
Skunk2 Cam seal
Skunk2 Pro1 Cams (I’ll have to wait on those so ill be using my GSR cams for a few months)
Brian Crower steel retainers
Because they don't wear as fast as the titanium ones and I won't have to check them as often and or replace them.
Ferrea completion plus Valves
It's a little over board for my build but this way I don't have to worry as much about valves handling the abuse.
Ferrea valve locks Hylokeeper
stronger than OEM ones to handle the increased spring pressure/valve lift.
OEM Honda Valve guides
I chose the OEM guides because the bronze wear out to quickly any where from 30,000-60,000 miles.
OEM Honda Valve stem seals
I almost always use oem seals because of their high quality.
ARP Head bolt kit
to handle the increased RPM and power
ARP Main stud kit
I might not be using this acutally because it requires a line hone to be done.
Hondata Intake manifold gasket
to reduce intake temps.
Extended Intake manifold studs
to make it easire to use the hondata gasket.
Avid torque mounts
old ones were worn out.
Larger injectors when I get the money
B18C Oil pump OBD2
B18C Lower timing cover OBD2
B18C Water pump OBD2
B18C Timing belt w/tensioner
B18C Oil pickup (strainer)
All OEM gaskets for the rest of the motor
Like I said before I’m still kind of undecided on the valves it was either that, Brian Crower, ITR Intake w/oem exhaust, or ITR Intake with Ferrea for the exhaust. But if anyone has any advice for me regarding the valves or anything else in my build I would be glad to hear it.
Here's some more info on my current setup.
Mild port job on cylinder head
AEM Short Ram intake
DC 4-1 header
Omni power test pipe
Apexi WS2 Exhaust 60mm (2.36")
ACT lightweight flywheel Streetlite 12.5lbs
ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate/ACT Performance clutch disk 245ft/lbs
Hasport engine mounts
And yes I plan on a larger throttle body but Im not sure what size yet I would like a 70mm or 72mm opening tapered down to 68mm so i can make use of the Venturi effect but i'll have to see about that, and yes I know to get the intake manifold port matched to the throttle body. By the way I live in WI so almost every gas station has 93 octane.
Here's my project
IMAG0157 by Sycosys, on Flickr
Oh yea I almost forgot to let everyone know why this happened, well about 3 months ago shortly after putting my new clutch and lightweight flywheel in I did the infamous Money shift (3rd to 2nd for those who don’t know) sending my motor to 11,300rpm. btw this motor had 150,000 miles on it and all that happened was 5 bent exhaust valves and 5 cracked valve guides, only if my exhaust valves would of had dual springs I wouldn’t have to be doing this, lol. But now I get a lot more power so yay for me.
Thanks for checking out my build guys I’ll upload some pics when I get parts
Mahle pistons 9cc High Compression 81.25 12.5:1-13:1
These allow me to run tighter PTW clearences because they are made of 4032 alloy, their only .25mm oversize so I have extra room to overbore if I need to, and I like their side skirt coating more than Wiseco.
Brian Crower lightweight Sportsman Rods w/ARP2000 426g
I chose these because of their lightweight to make my engine more responsive and they were fairly cheap as well. also I wanted to replace the old ones that have 150,000 miles on them.
OEM Honda Main/rod bearings, thrust washers, complete set.
OEM bearings allow me to run my deisred clearences much easier.
Skunk2 Pro series Intake Manifold
It was either this or the blox and I like the quality of skunk2 products so I chose this one.
Larger throttle body but not sure what kind and size
Skunk2 Pro Valve Spring set
Because they have a lower seat pressure than most aftermarket springs which will reduce wear and they are reccomended for their line of pro cams.
Skunk2 Cam seal
Skunk2 Pro1 Cams (I’ll have to wait on those so ill be using my GSR cams for a few months)
Brian Crower steel retainers
Because they don't wear as fast as the titanium ones and I won't have to check them as often and or replace them.
Ferrea completion plus Valves
It's a little over board for my build but this way I don't have to worry as much about valves handling the abuse.
Ferrea valve locks Hylokeeper
stronger than OEM ones to handle the increased spring pressure/valve lift.
OEM Honda Valve guides
I chose the OEM guides because the bronze wear out to quickly any where from 30,000-60,000 miles.
OEM Honda Valve stem seals
I almost always use oem seals because of their high quality.
ARP Head bolt kit
to handle the increased RPM and power
ARP Main stud kit
I might not be using this acutally because it requires a line hone to be done.
Hondata Intake manifold gasket
to reduce intake temps.
Extended Intake manifold studs
to make it easire to use the hondata gasket.
Avid torque mounts
old ones were worn out.
Larger injectors when I get the money
B18C Oil pump OBD2
B18C Lower timing cover OBD2
B18C Water pump OBD2
B18C Timing belt w/tensioner
B18C Oil pickup (strainer)
All OEM gaskets for the rest of the motor
Like I said before I’m still kind of undecided on the valves it was either that, Brian Crower, ITR Intake w/oem exhaust, or ITR Intake with Ferrea for the exhaust. But if anyone has any advice for me regarding the valves or anything else in my build I would be glad to hear it.
Here's some more info on my current setup.
Mild port job on cylinder head
AEM Short Ram intake
DC 4-1 header
Omni power test pipe
Apexi WS2 Exhaust 60mm (2.36")
ACT lightweight flywheel Streetlite 12.5lbs
ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate/ACT Performance clutch disk 245ft/lbs
Hasport engine mounts
And yes I plan on a larger throttle body but Im not sure what size yet I would like a 70mm or 72mm opening tapered down to 68mm so i can make use of the Venturi effect but i'll have to see about that, and yes I know to get the intake manifold port matched to the throttle body. By the way I live in WI so almost every gas station has 93 octane.
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