K-Swap, LS VTEC, or neither?
- Thread starter ArmyIntegra
- Start date
Nick_C78
New Member
Arp rod bolts indeed are 50, but after install and resizing the rods you are looking at 100 to 150 just to upgrade rod bolts. How much more is an ls block vs gsr...200? So for 50ish more you get a girdle(yes I meant girdle, phone changed to gaurd), stronger rods and squirts....which for cast pistons the squirts are ideal because cast don't like heat.
I like how you said if it was important, why didn't honda add it. The answer is simple; honda never intended on it being a performance engine. The engines they did design for performance have those things. Do you think you're smarter than honda?
Oh and just because your friend cheaped out and got away with it does not mean it is something we should suggest. Food for thought.
I like how you said if it was important, why didn't honda add it. The answer is simple; honda never intended on it being a performance engine. The engines they did design for performance have those things. Do you think you're smarter than honda?
Oh and just because your friend cheaped out and got away with it does not mean it is something we should suggest. Food for thought.
ArmyIntegra
Registered Teg Driver
"Yeah, probably". Haha this geeked me out.A couple of sr20's should pull a premium before racewarz.
Aussie
Zoom-Zoom
I'm gonna agree with oil squirters and the block girdle not being needed. If you're using forged pistons there's def no need for the squirters. I ran the b17 for 5 years with no squirters, no block guard, 9800 redline, and it never missed a beat, perfect temps, etc. I never did a 5 hour endurance race with it, but I ran it hard for plenty of continuous 30min runs without any issues.What do you mean "improper oil passages"? Because it doesn't have squatters that spray oil and the Pistons and a hold hole for the vtec solenoid that something's is wrong? If the squirters were a necessity why would honda has left them off? And have you never heard of someone removing them? Also the LS rods are fine, I've seen firsthand multiple 400+ whp LS engines with stock rods, you do need to replace the rod bolts, but ARP's are easy to find for $40-50. A friend of mine had a b20v that made ~270whp on his drag car revving to iirc 10k rpm, using stock LS rods with arp bolts; raced it for years without any failure. In guessing you meant block girdle because no honda engine has a block guard, and the girdle isn't necessary unless you want big power. In this instance the guy is talking about keeping up with an s2000 that doesn't sound to be very modified; so girdle not needed
For the OP and anyone else, I don't know why everyone says they want "low end torque". What's the point? When you're racing or doing spirited driving you shouldn't be in the low end of the rpm range anyway. Less torque and more hp usually makes for a better balanced fwd car anyway, especially for anything track/road related.
You want faster than a stock s2000 you either add boost to the LS, or add a vtec head/motor (whatever) and add more compression and bigger cams, or if you don't want to build a motor drop in a type r motor and do some serious weight reduction or k swap. I think spending that much on a K swap is pointless unless you really want some big N/A numbers. If you don't want to drop a ton of cash turbo the LS and you'll be that many cars ahead instead of behind.
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Aussie
Zoom-Zoom
Is it worn out, is it old? Those weren't mentioned so I'm not gonna scrutinize everything that could be wrong :roll:
You may think you need to spend $5k plus to build something reliable because you had bad luck with motors, but for many people that's not the case. Plenty of us have reliably turbo'd "old" motors and ran them for years without problems.
You may think you need to spend $5k plus to build something reliable because you had bad luck with motors, but for many people that's not the case. Plenty of us have reliably turbo'd "old" motors and ran them for years without problems.
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
Mine was in the 3-5k range for my entire swap and its not a crazy build. I wouldnt do any work to an LS motor though.
ArmyIntegra
Registered Teg Driver
Update: Since I couldn't get a credit card at the bank today, I had to apply for a loan. I kind of doubt i'll get it, but if I do I've got 2500 to work with. Anyone have any suggestions?
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
dont take out a loan to mod a car.
ArmyIntegra
Registered Teg Driver
By the way, that is a pretty awesome summary of what I can do. Thanks Aussie, haha.I'm gonna agree with oil squirters and the block girdle not being needed. If you're using forged pistons there's def no need for the squirters. I ran the b17 for 5 years with no squirters, no block guard, 9800 redline, and it never missed a beat, perfect temps, etc. I never did a 5 hour endurance race with it, but I ran it hard for plenty of continuous 30min runs without any issues.
For the OP and anyone else, I don't know why everyone says they want "low end torque". What's the point? When you're racing or doing spirited driving you shouldn't be in the low end of the rpm range anyway. Less torque and more hp usually makes for a better balanced fwd car anyway, especially for anything track/road related.
You want faster than a stock s2000 you either add boost to the LS, or add a vtec head/motor (whatever) and add more compression and bigger cams, or if you don't want to build a motor drop in a type r motor and do some serious weight reduction or k swap. I think spending that much on a K swap is pointless unless you really want some big N/A numbers. If you don't want to drop a ton of cash turbo the LS and you'll be that many cars ahead instead of behind.