themiller13
New Member
98 GSR, the same one that you all might remember me b****ing about with the state of the electrical wiring disaster in previous threads. It has come to strike again but this time I'm really stumped.
No P/s, no A/c, clutch bypassed with jumper wire, Hid headlights from PO not super sure how they're wired in. Aftermarket LED bulbs in Reverselights, corner lights, dash illumination, instrument panel illumination, map lights and dome lights. Kenwood KDC395 with jumper harness from my previous 97DB7 that has had no issues previously. Chipped with Neptune Demon 2 and only CEL is a problematic IAT sensor that has existed previously.
Things that don't work:
The running lights (tail lights and amber corner lights) will not illuminate when the turn switch is on the 1st position.
The cluster illumination lights and the back lighting for the Instrument panel will not turn on.
The light reminder buzzer/bell will not activate.
The activation light in the defroster will not illuminate but the relay audibly clicks when the button is pressed.
Things that do work:
head lights when turned into the 2nd position on the turn switch on the steering wheel.
high beams, when head lights are on and when the head lights are off (pull to pass or signal)
The indicator lights in the dash (i.e. CEL, parking brake, ABS SRS, door ajar)
The blower fan, recirculating motor, and the motor that changes what vents are used and indicator lights showing which vent is selected.
Dome and map lights.
Clock but it will not dim when the lights come on
Beeper/Buzzer/Bell that reminds the driver the keys are in the ignition.
Turn signals, when car is in on position the front and rear can illuminate the flashing turn signal, as can the hazard button.
Brake lights (the second filament)
Reverse Lights
Radio and all 4 speakers
Cigarette lights shows 12 volts
Scenario: I was installing the radio last night. Everything works all wires are accounted for in connections and the left overs are ended off.
>Plug it all in and everything works.
>Turn key off
> Push wires into dash, plug in antenna wire, and re-insert the radio into the dash.
> Re assemble center console and lower dash
>Turn engine over and fidget with the radio control.
>Turn on lights.
>Three count 1... 2... 3... "Pop pop fizz fizz fizz" come from the radio area, the radio's audio cuts in and out, the illumination on the radio face also cuts in and out.
>Radio comes back to normal operation
>Realize lights mentioned above aren't working.
>F*CK!!!!!!!!!!!!
>Its 1am. Like *u*k I'm dealing with this tonight. Move car to parking spot and unplug battery
>Wake up, hope POS car has burned to the ground
>It hasn't *Sadface*
>Remove radio and all trim to get to it
>Find out the orange dimmer wire on the radio side of the jumper harness has shaken the inch of shrink wrap that held it down and folded over itself to not have a shot in the world to come loose.
>Rage
>Re-cover orange wire but better
>Same problem still happens
>Pull every fuse in indash box and check Ohm reading with a multi meter. All read 0 ohms (which from what I gather from the internet is an effective way to test fuses.
>Engine Bay fuses also all check out
>Check voltage on Dimmer switch. Middle wire and black create 12.4V Middle wire and other wire also create 12.3v. Other wire and black create no current.
>Replace tail lights. Still same problem
>Check voltage on fuse terminals for fuse 18,30,32. But now I can't remember what they read
>Rage 2.0 when clutch switch bypass comes loose and it takes me 30 minutes to find out why
>Fix switch bypass
>Decide eating (haven't since lunch yesterday) and cooling down from the heat are a better option that destroying the car
Solutions attempted:
Replacing Tail light bulbs
Checking every fuse in both boxes
Checking voltage at dimmer switch
Check grounds. I have checked engine bay grounds
I'm almost 99.99 percent sure that the radio installation is the source of the issue, Primarily the orange dimmer wire that was allowed to ground itself out. And I haven't had any related issues previously
These are the main three solutions that the internet has to offer for this problem. Everyone seems to think it is a fuse problem and the conversation usually stops there. I'm not above replacing every fuse in the car, but after testing them all I don't think this will do anything.
Things I'm going to try when I get back to the car:
Checking voltage readings in the fuse box for relevant fuses
Testing relevant wires to try to isolate where the power disconnect is coming from.
Locate dash grounds (if any) and check them.
While I'm inside I'm going to try to find the wiring diagrams for the lighting in the car and attempt to trace down where the issue could be coming from systematically. If you have a quick link to the diagram it would be much appreciated.
If you have another solution or possible method of solution post it below. I'm okay at diagnosing electrical problems, but this one has me stumped and a kick in the right direction would greatly help.
I'm also located in the NE part of Orlando currently but I'm willing to drive (not at night obviously) to anyone who would be willing to help me with the solution. I'm trying to get back up to Jacksonville on Monday night to get the tune squared away on the car but if this problem persists I won't be able to.
No P/s, no A/c, clutch bypassed with jumper wire, Hid headlights from PO not super sure how they're wired in. Aftermarket LED bulbs in Reverselights, corner lights, dash illumination, instrument panel illumination, map lights and dome lights. Kenwood KDC395 with jumper harness from my previous 97DB7 that has had no issues previously. Chipped with Neptune Demon 2 and only CEL is a problematic IAT sensor that has existed previously.
Things that don't work:
The running lights (tail lights and amber corner lights) will not illuminate when the turn switch is on the 1st position.
The cluster illumination lights and the back lighting for the Instrument panel will not turn on.
The light reminder buzzer/bell will not activate.
The activation light in the defroster will not illuminate but the relay audibly clicks when the button is pressed.
Things that do work:
head lights when turned into the 2nd position on the turn switch on the steering wheel.
high beams, when head lights are on and when the head lights are off (pull to pass or signal)
The indicator lights in the dash (i.e. CEL, parking brake, ABS SRS, door ajar)
The blower fan, recirculating motor, and the motor that changes what vents are used and indicator lights showing which vent is selected.
Dome and map lights.
Clock but it will not dim when the lights come on
Beeper/Buzzer/Bell that reminds the driver the keys are in the ignition.
Turn signals, when car is in on position the front and rear can illuminate the flashing turn signal, as can the hazard button.
Brake lights (the second filament)
Reverse Lights
Radio and all 4 speakers
Cigarette lights shows 12 volts
Scenario: I was installing the radio last night. Everything works all wires are accounted for in connections and the left overs are ended off.
>Plug it all in and everything works.
>Turn key off
> Push wires into dash, plug in antenna wire, and re-insert the radio into the dash.
> Re assemble center console and lower dash
>Turn engine over and fidget with the radio control.
>Turn on lights.
>Three count 1... 2... 3... "Pop pop fizz fizz fizz" come from the radio area, the radio's audio cuts in and out, the illumination on the radio face also cuts in and out.
>Radio comes back to normal operation
>Realize lights mentioned above aren't working.
>F*CK!!!!!!!!!!!!
>Its 1am. Like *u*k I'm dealing with this tonight. Move car to parking spot and unplug battery
>Wake up, hope POS car has burned to the ground
>It hasn't *Sadface*
>Remove radio and all trim to get to it
>Find out the orange dimmer wire on the radio side of the jumper harness has shaken the inch of shrink wrap that held it down and folded over itself to not have a shot in the world to come loose.
>Rage
>Re-cover orange wire but better
>Same problem still happens
>Pull every fuse in indash box and check Ohm reading with a multi meter. All read 0 ohms (which from what I gather from the internet is an effective way to test fuses.
>Engine Bay fuses also all check out
>Check voltage on Dimmer switch. Middle wire and black create 12.4V Middle wire and other wire also create 12.3v. Other wire and black create no current.
>Replace tail lights. Still same problem
>Check voltage on fuse terminals for fuse 18,30,32. But now I can't remember what they read
>Rage 2.0 when clutch switch bypass comes loose and it takes me 30 minutes to find out why
>Fix switch bypass
>Decide eating (haven't since lunch yesterday) and cooling down from the heat are a better option that destroying the car
Solutions attempted:
Replacing Tail light bulbs
Checking every fuse in both boxes
Checking voltage at dimmer switch
Check grounds. I have checked engine bay grounds
I'm almost 99.99 percent sure that the radio installation is the source of the issue, Primarily the orange dimmer wire that was allowed to ground itself out. And I haven't had any related issues previously
These are the main three solutions that the internet has to offer for this problem. Everyone seems to think it is a fuse problem and the conversation usually stops there. I'm not above replacing every fuse in the car, but after testing them all I don't think this will do anything.
Things I'm going to try when I get back to the car:
Checking voltage readings in the fuse box for relevant fuses
Testing relevant wires to try to isolate where the power disconnect is coming from.
Locate dash grounds (if any) and check them.
While I'm inside I'm going to try to find the wiring diagrams for the lighting in the car and attempt to trace down where the issue could be coming from systematically. If you have a quick link to the diagram it would be much appreciated.
If you have another solution or possible method of solution post it below. I'm okay at diagnosing electrical problems, but this one has me stumped and a kick in the right direction would greatly help.
I'm also located in the NE part of Orlando currently but I'm willing to drive (not at night obviously) to anyone who would be willing to help me with the solution. I'm trying to get back up to Jacksonville on Monday night to get the tune squared away on the car but if this problem persists I won't be able to.
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