ls/vtec drivability issue

redgsr

New Member
can anyone help me on this one. idle is real sparatic, either jumps up and down or goes up to 3k. rev matching to downshift it starts to buck as the rpms drop. rpms hang between shifts. hestiates while giving it gas also, whether shifting or just accelerating.

'94 gsr with a obd2 ls/vtec
 

BrokenTalon27

W.F.O
Could be a lot of things, check the basics first. IAC, distributor, wires, plugs, fuel pump relay, TPS, etc.
 


redgsr

New Member
i dont think it's a vaccuum leak because it also randomly idles normal. all ignition parts are replaced. which ones the iac, the one on top or backside of TB? previous owner said he replaced the one thats on the back of the TB but the one on the top, when he unplugs it nothing happens. i know unplugging the iac will make it run rough.

it's tuned, dont know with what tho. just know it was dyno tuned and set up for high rpms. it's a lil beast on the highway
 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
We need some history on this car. Did it ever run properly? Did you just buy someone's mess? When you say "tuned", what do you mean? What type of engine management? Who tuned it? What kind of dyno was it tuned on? Is there a large difference in elevation from where you live and where the car was tuned?

IACV is on the back of the intake manifold. FITV is on the throttle body. I doubt it has anything to do with either. Most likely the engine wasn't put together properly and/or wasn't tuned properly.
 


redgsr

New Member
you're asking questions i dont know. i didnt build the car. there's 2 sensors on the TB. if a motors not put together right its gonna have more issues then this one obviously. how do i know, cause the shop and dude who didnt it is pretty knowledgable since it's a tuning shop
 

sugarfree135

matt
i know i had to adjust the duty cycle on my iacv after i did some mods to it previously because at startup it would fluctuate between 800 rpm and 1100 rpm so maybe re set your idle and re adjust the iacv or have the shop do it if they can i'm running s300 so everything is easy but who knows what you're tuned on. the fast idle thermo valve will cause a sharp fluctuation like that also. and the plug you took off that didn't do anything was your manifold absolute pressure sensor.
 

redgsr

New Member
also forgot to mention if it's idling high, if i give it a quick rev it goes back to idling normal. how would i go about resetting the idle and the iacv valve. not at all familiar with hondas
 

BrokenTalon27

W.F.O
redgsr said:
you're asking questions i dont know. i didnt build the car. there's 2 sensors on the TB. if a motors not put together right its gonna have more issues then this one obviously. how do i know, cause the shop and dude who didnt it is pretty knowledgable since it's a tuning shop
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Well, anyone who has the money can start a shop. Just because it's a tuning shop doesn't mean they know their ass from a hole in the ground. You have to find a REPUTABLE TUNER, not just some kid who thinks he can tune and convinced Daddy to buy him a shop.
 

redgsr

New Member
when the fuck did i say anything about some kid gettin a shop from his dad. its a known shop that does good work
 

BrokenTalon27

W.F.O
redgsr said:
when the fuck did i say anything about some kid gettin a shop from his dad. its a known shop that does good work
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Calm down....get that bunch out of your panties. I was simply making a statement that you can't always put your faith in someone just because they own a shop. I've seen a lot of people get burned that way, I did when I was 17, and it's an expensive lesson to learn.
Don't get so fucking butt hurt noob.
 

redgsr

New Member
i put the same faith everyone else does

butt hurt? must be texas slang. your cool callin me a "noob"
 
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