95teg said:
ok another question, by the way thanks inline for all the feedback... ok well i currently have a 95 gsr, question is all motor or turbo? i know some are like easy question go turbo! but lets think of reliability, and cost? if i was to go all motor, it would be more like type r rods + pistons, i also heard b16 pistons are great and will give me good high compression, its a daily driver.. the turbo side is... WOW there are alot of parts to buy and a shit load of labor involved her, not to mention some custom fab. that i dont really have the time or place to do that... if i also when all motor with the type r rods + pistons, what cams would u reccomend, and also what would i need to do, inorder to have this engine support nos with out any probles...
by the way does an all motor run premium gas, or would i need octane booster? im sure its 92+ correct? but thats just a n extra question.. once again thanks for the help!
Forced induction/ all motor. two great setups. first of all lets talk about all motor. going with Type-R pistons+ rods will set you at 11.0:1 compression which you will need premium to run on. any higher compression and you will need more than 91 octane. for cams, if you want to stay OEM and keep honda reliability, go with CTR(Civic Type-R) cams. they are more aggressive than ITR cams. also if staying with GSR head then get your exhaust ports done at the minimum. CTR valve train also. with this setup (11.0:1CR,CTR cams, CTR valvetrain, exhaust ported) you can expect to run high 14's(maybe) to mid 15's. Good thing about this setup is OEM reliability..... to support NOS "wet" you'll need good tuning (I recommend hondata), bigger fuel pump(255lph). with a "dry" kit you'll need the above and it doesnt hurt to have stainless valves and maybe a bit bigger injectors. my friend who builds the LS/VTEC's has a homie in idaho who runs a 100 shot dry and the only mods to his engine(B16A in EG hatch) are the stainless valves and a fuel pump and he's run that setup reliable for a few years and he's in the 12's.
Forced induction. to set up a good turbo kit (T3/T04E or precision turbo) it will cost a minimum of $1100-$1600 if you look around and find some good deals. by good setup I mean TiAl 38mm WG, BOV, IC,IC piping, downpipe, T3/T04E turbo, fuel pump, FMU, and misc hoses, lines etc.. with this type of kit my friend ran a 14.1** at a shitty ass track(RMR) here in utah on a otherwise stock LS at 9lbs of boost.
so all motor guesstimate cost is about $900 if you do the labor yourself meaning you rebuild your entire engine and do the port work yourself. if not it will cost a coule hundred more I'm guessing. Turbo kit: $1100- up depending on your hardware. so cost is a little more for a turbo kit but in my opinion, definetly worth it.
turbo kits are easier to install than rebuilding an engine if your worried about difficulty. basic hand tools, a jack and patience is all you need.
reliability: all motor with above mentioned setup is very reliable. once you bump up compression to higher levels and beefier cams then reliability starts going down. turbocharging is actually pretty reliable if you dont boost too high for your tuning/engine. the reasoning behind this is when you dont have your foot on the gas you dont have boost. simple as that. but the all motor setup mentioned is much more reliable than turbo.
sorry for the novel, I hope this helps.
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Yamaha XS-1
