Motor advice

Rich-PMS

New Member
So im tired of having to check my oil every other day, and put almost 1qt in a week. My motor is burning oil, runs strong as hell, but i don't want it to blow up on me.


Im going to buy a replacement motor to drop in, and build my stock motor for boost- and drop it in next year.


So I'm looking at either b20b or b18b. Prices are basically the same, so I'd like some input on which route I should go.


I'll be making my purchase in about 2-3 weeks.


Do NOT tell me to do b20 vtec- as I'm only dropping in a stock replacement motor for the time being. I've narrowed my quest down to the 2 motors I listed above.


I'm kind of leaning towards b18b so I don't have to tune. But I'm still open to opinions from those who are more experianced with either motor.
 

DaddyBuiltRacing

Resident Asshole
Either or is a good choice. I've had both and didn't see much of a difference between the 2 in stock form. Had a b18a that ran 14.9, had a b20b that ran 14.82 lol. If you don't wanna have the car tuned then I would just go with an LS, the difference in tq is what 1 or 2 ft/lbs? Not enough to notice anything really.
 

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
Honestly if I had the choice I'd go for the B20, I've had a bit of experience with it, obviously the choice is yours but I like how the b20 pulls
 


Rich-PMS

New Member
I'm going to get the full motor.

Yes- I have b18a now.

My car pulls on a b20 hatch and I'm neck n neck with my buddys gsr until the end of 2nd when he has 2k+ more rpms in his powerband.

I didn't really think there would be much of a differance,
 

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
Off the line, B20 will take a B18, but at higher speed pulls (+50) the B18 will take the win
 


Rich-PMS

New Member
Samurai_Blue said:
i would get another b18A, the b18B has different cams and the ecu gives it a little more power.
Click to expand...
Would it be worth using obd0-1 jumper and a obd1 ecu? I'd eventually be doing that when I go boosted.
Finding a good condition b18a would be hard.

Or I can just swap my cams into the b18b, and use my stock ecu. Correct?
 

BrokenTalon27

W.F.O
Being that you're just getting this motor to use while you build your other, just get the cheapest thing that is decent. If it's only going to be in a few months, it doesn't matter too much.
 

Rich-PMS

New Member
Cheap is never good. I want a reliable dependable motor. I commute 300+ miles a week

b18b or b20 is the "cheapest" option of what I'm willing to do. I don't trust a craigslist motor- the ONLY way I'd even think about it is if it's still in the car to be driven/seen run.
 

DaddyBuiltRacing

Resident Asshole
Couple things here, the b18a and b18b have the same cams. Look up the part numbers if you don't believe me, not to mention I have had both sets mic'd because of this myth. Same with auto vs manual b18 cams. The 10hp difference comes from the ECU like Samurai said, but it also comes from the intake manifold design. Look at an obd0 intake then look at an obd1, they are 2 different intakes.

klutchDb7 said:
Off the line, B20 will take a B18, but at higher speed pulls (+50) the B18 will take the win
Click to expand...
Umm wheres the logic behind that thinking lol.
 

Rich-PMS

New Member
I'm not really worried about 10hp to be honest. And there's a chance I'd buy an aftermarket intake manifold, and tune. But nothing is set in stone. Just looking at options.


Have someone on g2ic with a b18b- arp head studs, all new gaskets, timing belt, water pump. 350$
no intake or exhaust manifold. He's about 35miles from me so I'm thinking of checking it out.


Any tips/tricks for inspecting a motor that's out of the car?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top