motor swap questions

tucents

New Member
Hey guys,

I have a DD 1995 RS with a b18b1 in in currently that is running totally fine no problems, I also have a 1990 acura integra 4 door with a b18c1 (GS-R motor) in currently that has not run for a few years. I plan on pulling it this year with a few friends and was wondering a few questions that could be answered before doing the swap.

1. What test to do need to perform to make sure the motor is healthy or worth the swap?

2. Should i change the oil and run the motor for 20 minutes to break everything back in from sitting so long?

3. Do I have to use the wiring harness from the 1990 to fit in the 1995?

4. I don't think the 1990 has ABS but if it does, is there a way i can remove the abs unit to fit in the 95 integra? (my 95 integra does not have ABS)

5.If I dropped the GS-R Motor into my 95 integra with the ecu and wiring harness, are there any modifications that have to be done?

6. Any dangers of dropping the motor instead of lifting? (Do not have engine crane ATM)

*******Please ANY advice would be GREATLY appreciated, i need all the info you engine swap guru/experts can advise and member's who have done engine swaps!***********

And if i pulled the motor i probably will be replacing all the gaskets including head gasket and all that to prevent leaks and such.
 

96LSteg

Jemel
I would rebuild that GSR motor if its been sitting for a few years. You are going to have to use the harness from the '90 teg because that's the one that is hooked up to the GSR already so you won't have to change anything. There is nothing wrong with dropping vs. lifting. Just make sure you don't break any wires as you will have to solder them. I would replace all gaskets, seals, and fluids in the GSR motor (and maybe even water/ oil pump and timing belt before using that motor.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
I think #2 is an excellent idea which answers #1. At least you know if you have any issues started etc. Change oil, let it idle until it fully heats up enough so the fan comes on. Shut it off and do a compression test.

#4, absolutely not.
The rest Im not sure
 

tucents

New Member
Muckman said:
I think #2 is an excellent idea which answers #1. At least you know if you have any issues started etc. Change oil, let it idle until it fully heats up enough so the fan comes on. Shut it off and do a compression test.

#4, absolutely not.
The rest Im not sure
Click to expand...
Are you saying that there is no abs or are you saying that abs is not removable? If there is abs ow do I bypass itor install it?
 


SilverStreak02

New Member
1. Compression and Leak-Down Tests should be preformed.

2. Yes. Change the oil before starting the engine again. But there really isn't any need to let the engine run for an extended period of time just because it's been sitting.

3. You'll need to use the wire harness from the '95. You may need to extend a few wires. You will need a subharness for the addition of VTEC oil pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock, and IAB sensors. You'll also need an OBD1 distributor.

4. No

5. See #3

6. I always drop the engine from the bottom. I find it much easier and there is a lesser chance of damaging the car.

Also, there is no need to replace the head gasket unless it is bad. Leak-down test results will tell you if it's bad.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
I dont believe the 2nd gen ever came with ABS. Even if it did it would not fit a different chasis and electrical system.
 

tucents

New Member
SilverStreak02 said:
1. Compression and Leak-Down Tests should be preformed.

2. Yes. Change the oil before starting the engine again. But there really isn't any need to let the engine run for an extended period of time just because it's been sitting.

3. You'll need to use the wire harness from the '95. You may need to extend a few wires. You will need a subharness for the addition of VTEC oil pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock, and IAB sensors. You'll also need an OBD1 distributor.

4. No

5. See #3

6. I always drop the engine from the bottom. I find it much easier and there is a lesser chance of damaging the car.

Also, there is no need to replace the head gasket unless it is bad. Leak-down test results will tell you if it's bad.
Click to expand...

@ #3- Howcome i use the harness from the 95? What wires need to be extended? and the subharness is probably attached to the vtec solenoid, correct?
 


tucents

New Member
*****UPDATE********

I went to check out the engine bay of the 1990 acura integra with the GS-R motor in it and it DOES HAVE ABS........My question now is what do i do since my 95 Integra DOES NOT have ABS????

This is what it looks like with a GS-R in it though, in the top left is a massive ass ABS unit though.
 

SilverStreak02

New Member
tucents said:
@ #3- Howcome i use the harness from the 95? What wires need to be extended? and the subharness is probably attached to the vtec solenoid, correct?
Click to expand...
tucents said:
*****UPDATE********

I went to check out the engine bay of the 1990 acura integra with the GS-R motor in it and it DOES HAVE ABS........My question now is what do i do since my 95 Integra DOES NOT have ABS????

This is what it looks like with a GS-R in it though, in the top left is a massive ass ABS unit though.
Click to expand...
OBD0 harness connectors are not compatible with OBD1. IAT and injector 1-4 connectors may need to be extended. Without knowing how the swap was done in the 1990 Integra, I have no idea if you have a proper subharness.

Nothing. No need to worry about not having ABS. It won't cause any problems with your engine swap. I personally think pre-'98 Integra ABS systems are garbage anyway, so you're better off not having it. Just my opinion though.
 

tucents

New Member
no thats not the gsr i jsut found it on google to show you guys what it looks like. Im am now waiting for students to go back home so i can park in the landlords driveway for a few nights........

First off I want to use tape and mark where all the connectors fit into so i dont get them mixed up. Then start pulling the hardness and ecu out first........then i will start draining all fluids after i figure out if its a good motor to pull, then start disconnecting everyhting holding onto the motor...........anyone have a DIY for it
 
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