New clutch and lightweight flywheel.

[joshuathewolf]

Ok so I just went out and bought a new stage 2 clutch and an 8.5 lb flywheel. They are the cheap ones (XTD and F1 racing respectively) but Im broke. transmission has been shifting like its worn out since I bought it (GSR trans on a 99 ls) so I wanted to see if it might just be the clutch... well it was. on the way home the clutch gave out (FATE??!?) and I had to clutch-less shift (almost) about 40 miles home.

My question is are there any tips for installing/breaking in a clutch/flywheel I should know about?

(ie. thread locker, torque pattern, ect...)

I just ordered ARP bolts for both the fw and clutch bc I dont want to use the old possibly damaged bolts.


Any input that could save me heartache would be much appreciated!

the engine is stock (B18B1) as is the gsr trans.

I have never swapped a clutch before and will have a mechanic friend nearby to ask questions (we work in the same shop).


Thanks!

 

[justjdm]

Buy a haynes manual, it will show you what you need to do step by step. It's not hard, but you could mess up your trans and clutch if you install it wrong!

 

[afroman18]

Ok so I just went out and bought a new stage 2 clutch and an 8.5 lb flywheel. They are the cheap ones (XTD and F1 racing respectively) but Im broke. transmission has been shifting like its worn out since I bought it (GSR trans on a 99 ls) so I wanted to see if it might just be the clutch... well it was. on the way home the clutch gave out (FATE??!?) and I had to clutch-less shift (almost) about 40 miles home.

My question is are there any tips for installing/breaking in a clutch/flywheel I should know about?

(ie. thread locker, torque pattern, ect...)

I just ordered ARP bolts for both the fw and clutch bc I dont want to use the old possibly damaged bolts.


Any input that could save me heartache would be much appreciated!

the engine is stock (B18B1) as is the gsr trans.

I have never swapped a clutch before and will have a mechanic friend nearby to ask questions (we work in the same shop).


Thanks!

I'm in the same boat lol. i chose not to install mine myself simply because ive n never done anything with regards to it. As for breaking it in i belive you have to go at least 500 miles (maybe less but thats what im doing) with no shifting over 4k, no quick shifting, and definately no launches lol. Someone correct me if im wrong.

 

[gugiey]

clutch replacement is easy . hardest part is getting the tranny out and back in lol .
when I did my clutch I couldn't really properly brake it in cause the cx civic have no tac. but I've gotten 3000 out of it so far and it works perfect. no slippage or anything .

don't be scared just take pictures of stuff before you take it apart so you know where wires go .
lock tight your bolts on the flywheel
and pressure plate . if you have the flywheel of and your engine has High km I would suggest changing the rear main seal .
also redo your axle seals in the tranny . you dont want those to leak and you have to take everything apart again lol.

there's no proper torque pattern but go in a star pattern just to make sure you don't tighten one side and warp it .

 

[joshuathewolf]

Thanks for the input guys.

I have the manual... first thing I buy after a car lol... and in theory i know how to do the swap.. Im just looking for stuff people have picked up through experience that a book wouldn't really tell you.

And is it common to just reuse flywheel and pressure plate bolts???!! this seems dangerous... something that heats and cools while spinning that fast seems likely to be strained to say the least...

What does replacing the rear main seal entail exactly? Do I have to take out/move the crank?
the engine has less than 80k on it... also where do I get transmission axle seals (worked at an auto store and we didnt carry them...)

Anyone else please feel free to chime in!

 

[Prozon]

Thanks for the input guys.

I have the manual... first thing I buy after a car lol... and in theory i know how to do the swap.. Im just looking for stuff people have picked up through experience that a book wouldn't really tell you.

And is it common to just reuse flywheel and pressure plate bolts???!! this seems dangerous... something that heats and cools while spinning that fast seems likely to be strained to say the least...

What does replacing the rear main seal entail exactly? Do I have to take out/move the crank?
the engine has less than 80k on it... also where do I get transmission axle seals (worked at an auto store and we didnt carry them...)

Anyone else please feel free to chime in!

When installing the flywheel make sure that you tap it with a rubber mallet or something to make sure it is on all the way. Torque to spec.

Make sure it is clean after installed, make sure to get any grease or oil wiped off if you happen to get some on it.

You can re-use flywheel/pressure plate bolts without issues.

I want to say Autozone or O'Rileys should carry the axle seals, but I remember I bought mine at Napa.. and I RARELY go to Napa, so maybe they don't carry those seals. Napa does though.

Unless your rear main seal is leaking- don't worry about it. If it is leaking, your manual should give you a step to step guide on it.

As for break-in procedure, just follow the instructions that comes with the clutch. I believe my Stage 3 clutch from F1Racing had something along the lines of the first 900 miles is a "break-in" period. Avoid hard launches. I've got 10k on my clutch, I abuse it from time to time and i'm turbocharged. Can't beat the price either.