rear brakes dont work

[k624ash]

I just did an abs removal on my car using an si prop valve. after i was done i went to bleed the brakes and the rear brakes wouldnt bleed, no fluid or air. i then relized that when you push the pedal down the caliper also doesnt grab the rotor.
the front brakes work just as they should but both of the rear brakes arent working at all, any help would be greatly appriciated

 

[dc2GS-R]

Maybe the brake proportioning valve isn't set right or its clogged. Thats the only thing I've ever seen effect that. But anyway, WHY are you removing your ABS?

 

[k624ash]

it doesnt work, i want to clean out my bay, save a bit of wieght too. i would keep it if it worked and if it was the 98 up version. how could the prop valve be set wrong? and if it was clogged how could i unclog it?

 

[dc2GS-R]

I've only done the ABS delete once. We used an adjustable aftermarket proportioning valve and had the same problem. We unhooked the lines from the valve and bled the system further up before it went to the rear and cleaned the valve with an air compressor and a little wire brush. It turned out to that the old nasty fluid clogged the valve when we swapped them. But that was from an old car that had been sitting for awhile while we did an engine swap. When was the last time you bled the brake system and where did you get the valve from?

 

[k624ash]

I've only done the ABS delete once. We used an adjustable aftermarket proportioning valve and had the same problem. We unhooked the lines from the valve and bled the system further up before it went to the rear and cleaned the valve with an air compressor and a little wire brush. It turned out to that the old nasty fluid clogged the valve when we swapped them. But that was from an old car that had been sitting for awhile while we did an engine swap. When was the last time you bled the brake system and where did you get the valve from?

its very possible that my lines got clogged from old nasty fluid, my car has 180 thousand miles on it and i dont know if it has ever been changed, it was pretty gross and thick so should i just unbolt the prop valve and bleed from the lines? also how does the proportioning valve work? what do the two lines coming from the master do? is on in and one out? or is one front and one rear?

 

[dc2GS-R]

If I remember correctly, the routing is like this:

The driver's side master cylinder line attaches to the bottom left of the prop valve farthest from the firewall
The passenger's side master cylinder line attaches to the top left of the prop valve farthest from the firewall
The right rear brake line goes to the top right side of the prop valve
The rear line on the left goes on the bottom right side of the valve.
The front left brake line attaches to the top left fitting near the firewall
The front right brake line attaches to the bottom left fitting near the firewall
(might want someone else to verify this ^^^ its been awhile)

I don't think its in and out or front and rear. I think it has two going to the prop valve, one in top and one in bottom to give the valve equal pressure. Try taking the lines going to the brakes off the prop valve and bleed it a little at the valve to make sure it fluid is flowing correctly through it.

 

[k624ash]

well i got the si prop valve, you described the rs valve. but what i figured out is that it is two lines from the master that split into the front and rear lines. I took out my prop and sprayed stuff in it, it would go in and out of the master holes and the front brakes holes but not the rear brake ones. so the prop must be broken, im going to replace it and this time im getting an rs one

 

[dc2GS-R]

Hmm. I thought the RS and Si prop valve was damn near the same. We used a 95 RS valve with a 99 GSR master cylinder though

 

[k624ash]

Hmm. I thought the RS and Si prop valve was damn near the same. We used a 95 RS valve with a 99 GSR master cylinder though

they work the same, they are just shapped different. the si one is like a half circle