Rust spots & heater problems

Inuyash274

Self Taught Noob
I was gifted a 93 Acura Integra SE by my girlfriend. The car is in great condition, it runs perfectly! It just looks like a piece of crap. When she gave it to me, she told me that it was a fixer upper (which I was happy with). I really want to fix this car up and make it a beauty to drive around.

Problems:
There are 6 rust spots, one on the trunk, one on the hood (ill just get a new hood or something) and the rest are near/ over the back tires. I HAVE NOT checked under the car yet.
The heater doesnt work. My gf was under the impression it was the blower, but when she tried to turn the switch it fought us to turn. But all the buttons light up. So it could either be the switch or the blower motor?

These are the only problems with the car I can see so far. If any one has ANY ideas on how to fix the rust and heater, I would be very grateful. Below I have pics of the car that I uploaded to my imgur account.

http://imgur.com/a/65Sbt
 

Inuyash274

Self Taught Noob
here is an update. I went out to the car and pressed all the heater buttons and turned the knob. You can hear clicking inside of the dash (and all the knobs buttons light up). To me, it sounds like the heater motor is trying to start. If you put your hand up to the vents you feel nothing. I'm sure this information will help someone to know what the problem MIGHT be.

I looked under the car, there isn't any rust under the wheels. So it just appears to be on the exterior of the body (good sign).
 

djzachtyler

Looking for my next Teg..
be a great lil project for sure!!! Love seeing folks take in a DA and fixerup...

the rust looks to be surface rust so may be easier to get rid of. otherwise you are looking at alot of grinding, cutting and welding.

the dash cowel where the knob and buttons are is easy to pull of and inspect as it is all 1 piece, just have to pop out the switches left and right of the steering column. remove the heater fan knob & temp control knob along with 3 screws. 2 under the top in the cluster area and 1 hidden behind a little cover on the very right side.

check your fuses & wiring first the blower is kind of a bitch to get to
 

Inuyash274

Self Taught Noob
Yeah, I was going to go to autozone today and buy a new fuse for it to rule that out. It is just the clicking noise that gets to me, its like something in there is trying to start and move around.
 


Inuyash274

Self Taught Noob
HEATER PROBLEM SOLVED!

It wasn't the fuse or the relay. Because the sealant on the passenger side cowl hadn't EVER been replaced, the water just leaked down into the floor board. This water flow caused the heater to rust and short out. So, I need to replace the cowl sealant and heater motor and everything SHOULD be fine.

As far as the rust spots, I am going to sand those spots down with an electric and hand sander. Get down to the metal to see HOW MUCH damage was actually done over the years. Seal up the holes with the use of thin screen wire and bondo. Smooth it down again lightly and paint over the spots in question with rustolium. Once all the spots are taken care of, when ever I get any money (because I am only a young adult with a part time job) I shall take it to a shop to have a professional paint the entire car black.

Thanks for the help guys! I knew this site/ forum would not let me down!
 

djzachtyler

Looking for my next Teg..
FYI... when sanding down you need to remove ALL of he rust... a few small particles of it can ruin your hard work...

Really it is suggested that if removing rust you just cut all rusted metal out and weld new sheet in it's place. Bondo jobs look like crap if not done 100% right, and tend to not last as long as a good repair.

just my .02 cents :)
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
The 3 spots that are not on the quarter panels, will be easiest to fix by replacing the parts, I believe they were the hood, hatch, and fuel door.
The rust near the wheels on the quarter panel looks to be surface rust, which can be fixed by a lot of sanding. There is also a chemical that some professional paint shops sell that will stop rust and through a chemical reaction render any remaining rust inert. Once it is applied the rust spots will turn from redish to black and will not spread.
The rust spot next to the side molding looks like it's a bit worse. The rust has gone all the way through the sheet metal, which will have to be replaced. It will involve cutting, welding, and grinding, and will most likely have to be done by a shop. The rust repairs can become quite expensive.
It would also be a good idea to pull the carpet back in the front of the car where the water has leaked and check for rust there.
 


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