Shifting issues on 1997 Integra

[gflat65]

Hey everyone,

I'm finally getting around to working on this and have questions. I'm a muscle car guy and haven't done much with FWD cars.

My wife drove the integra for about a year. She was new to manual trannies, so I have no doubt she did some damage to the clutch. Before I dig into replacing the clutch, thought I'd check the other possibilities. I'll need to replace the clutch at some point even if I find an issue somewhere else, but time is a factor right now.

When I got the car back, I had difficulty shifting out of 1st into anything else. It eventually progressed to the point that I can't even get it in first now. When it was working, I could quick shift it and get it through all 5 forward gears (3-5 were the toughest initially) Now, reverse seems to work to some extent, but no forward gears. It's been a while since I did anything with it, but it seems like I'd get a grinding when I was trying to shift, then it'd drop into gear (meanwhile, I was pumping the clutch pedal while trying to shift and it seemed like it would work, but not consistently).

The pedal is soft and doesn't return well (but will return). Fluid has never been changed.

I just checked the slave and it moves, but not very much (1/2", maybe). Is that all it should move?

When pumping the clutch, I don't see the fluid moving in the reservoir (don't with the brakes either, though). It's been sitting for about a year.

There appears to be a small tranny leak (fluid present on the bottom of the tranny). Didn't see any leaks at the slave, though (but really only popped the boot off).

I guess my starting question is how much should the slave move when depressing the clutch pedal?

If this sounds more like a 'must change the clutch' issue, are there any good step by step threads or videos out there? I'd found one somewhere a year or so ago, but apparently didn't bookmark it.

I've never pulled a FWD tranny, but would like to learn in this one to say to myself that I can do it.

TIA

 

[OGstackadoIIa]

I would try changing the cmc and slave first. Then work towards the clutch. I would think the clutch would be more consistent, where the cylinders would be more erratic

 

[gflat65]

Thanks for the post. I think my recent observations confirm that(?). See below.

I just hooked up a new battery to it and cranked it to let it run since its been a while. I pumped the clutch repeatedly and it built up a little more pressure. While I was sitting in the car with it running, I decided to see if it would let me shift. I could shift through all forward gears easily. Reverse was problematic, but it had given small issues before the 'wifening'. Before all of this, sometimes I'd have to let off the clutch pedal a little while working the shifter into reverse and to get it into reverse).

Then I decided to back up and down the driveway. Aside from some little friction sounding grinding (like brakes or clutch that might have some rust on them? I live in central/south Alabama, so humidity is always high, making that seem plausible to me). I was able to shift through third with ease in the driveway (not actually getting to speed, but seeing if I could get it in gear). Then I got brave and decided to take it around the block. No real issues with anything except reverse. With no one else at home, I didn't want to take it too far yet.

That points more to the CMC/CSC, huh?

Some other non drive train issues have popped up since it's been sitting. Not sure if I should mention it here, but with the battery connected, the brake lights stay on. Had to disconnect to get them to go off. Also, the passenger side window doesn't go down (auto windows- it had been slow from the time I got the car in 2001 until I parked it, so maybe the motor finally fried?). Also have a leak when it rains. The spare tire well was filing up with water until I punctured the asphaltic at the low point. Should I start a new thread on those in another forum?

Thanks again.

 

[gflat65]

Brake light issue is the missing plastic piece that acts as the plunger stop.

Checked fuses on right side window and its good, so likely a bad motor.

Not sure where to start on checking for leak at hatch. Weatherstripping rolls down across rear portion, so maybe that's it?

Getting a new CMC and CSC tomorrow to see if that takes care of the shifting issues.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

brake pedal switch stop is missing

you need this - $4.00 from the dealership

leaking trunk? the tail light gasket doesnt seal properly. unbolt the tail light and add some rtv sealant where the lights meet the gasket.


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[gflat65]

Thanks for the post. The plunger stop part number will make communications easier with the shop. I'll pull out the tail lights and seal them up, too. Excited about getting back into my Integra. It's pretty much all stock, but the time isn't right to get a new car, so I may funnel a little bit its way.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

sounds good!

an as for reverse. theyre all like that. if you cant get it in, go into first and try again. i usually just keep pressure on reverse and lift the clutch a bit till it drops in.


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[gflat65]

sounds good!

an as for reverse. theyre all like that. if you cant get it in, go into first and try again. i usually just keep pressure on reverse and lift the clutch a bit till it drops in.

That's what has worked for me in the past, so if that's normal, that's what I'll keep doing.

Got the CMC and CSC installed last night. Had some issues with the pedal coming about halfway back up, then popping to the static position. I adjusted the length of the shaft on the CMC and it seemed better. By the time I finished up last night, I was too worn out to test it out (knowing I'd keep going if I found something else, and I'd lost probably 8-10# while working on it due to the heat- hottest day of the year so far, here...).

I'm not a huge guy, but at 6' - 200#, I found it tough getting to anything. Upside down in the drivers seat with little hope of getting two arms into position to use both hands. Forearms barely squeezing through the space between the fan and the tranny. Definitely a little beat up today. As long as I worked for the scrapes and bruises (hate phantom pains that I don't know how I earned...), I'll live.

Will have the plastic pieces today (clutch pedal stopper fell apart when I touched it), so I can test it out soon after getting home. Feel like I bled the system well, so fingers crossed.

 

[gflat65]

New issue. Now the engine won't turn over... Have all ACC, but its like a switch isn't being made or something because the starter isn't doing anything. 12.5VDC drops to 12.35VDC, so I seem to have a signal to the battery when I turn the key. Checked continuity on the fuses and they are good.

The CSC is moving the fork.

The battery light and oil lights stay on. Checked oil and there doesn't appear to be any. I ran it a few minutes Monday night, but not much more than that. Didn't think to check oil (light wasn't on then, either, but it had to be low since I'm not seeing any now). Didn't expect to be able to move in the car when I started it...

Any ideas?

 

[gflat65]

I checked voltage to the starter thinking that if it's not getting voltage when I turn the key (with clutch pedal depressed), I'd have a troubleshooting path. When I hooked up the meter (positive to starter cable, negative to ground), it showed 12.3-12.5VDC before turning the key. I expected it to be zero, then jump to ~12VDC when the key was turned/clutch pedal depressed.

Should the starter cable (main) have voltage on it? Is there a solenoid mounted to the starter? If so, is it the smaller cable that comes in to the right of the main cable (when standing on the passenger side, leaning into the engine compartment)?

 

[TeggyT]

check the clutch sensor, possible cause. jus an idea. might save alot of time with the not starting issue