Themiller13's diagnosis/problem thread

themiller13

New Member
Edited on 6/2/14 with a new problem

Since not everyone reads through build threads in their entirety any problems that I post in mine might go un-noticed. Since I'm restoring this '98 GSR. I know that I'm going to run into some stuff that I don't know right away, and in place of making multiple threads about multiple issues, I'm making a catch all thread that will document the problems and their solutions.. Some of it will be my noting issues that I have yet to look up, but will, and some stuff that has me dead in the water. I plan for the list to grow with the thread (hopefully not too large), keep the main problems in this post and fill in the solutions as they come. I know I'm long winded, I'd prefer to give more info than necessary than leave any lacking. Just hang in there with me.

So if you see this thread in the recent activity check in and help a brother out on what ever is stumping me.

Here's the GSR's main thread for anyone who is interested:
http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=91790



Unsolved issues:



ECU access

Routing of coolant lines to/from sensors



Explanations:



ECU access
The car has been converted to OBD1 via jumper cable. The PO told me that the car was a chipped P72. I read around the internet to see if disconnecting the battery would lose a tune on a chipped ECU to find that cutting power would have no ill effects. Before cutting the power I checked the CEL light to find that it was not on. After giving it power again today and starting/idling it I have a CEL. I tried the jump method on the plug in passenger's kick only to get a slow on/off pattern from the CEL. Which if I'm not mistaken means an ECU error. I'm not sure of the internal work on the engine so I'd hate to put back in a Factory ECU and fry the motor. Assuming that I can't get an OBD scanner to read the ECU, which I have a good feeling that I won't be able to. What should be my next option to figure out the code? My first idea was to open the ECU and see what was going on in there, but as far a tuning like this goes I'm in the dark.

Addition
I used an OBD reader today in a feeble attempt to connect to the ECU. It didn't work as I suspected. Either the jumper harness or the "chipped" ecu caused the problem. I opened the case up and took some photos of each side.

IMG_2346 by themiller13, on Flickr

IMG_2990 by themiller13, on Flickr

I don't really know what I'm looking at here. Help me out here. This is only supposed to be a temporary solution until I get a legit tuning system to install.

Routing of coolant to sensors
The PO has cut and dead-ended a some small coolant lines and breather tubes. I want to get everything back to close-to-stock operating order.

Going to start here and work around the engine bay as time progresses.



Tubing that has the bolt smashed into it? Does it go to the charcoal canister? There's a mystery tube down under the battery that comes from the canister that has been cut as well.

I'm still not 100% what the top sensor is that has two open nipples but I'm fairly certain certain that it runs coolant through here for the winter time operation. (name of it?)

I looked this up at one point but all of the information is slipping my mind currently. I believe that the FITV below the throttle body has a coolant line run to it as well. but I'm not sure of the routing. There is a nipple off of the exhaust side of the motor, that is on the top side radiator hose (pictured below). It has been blocked off as well. I think that it is the feed line for the FITV and unknown sensor?




I found a guy locally who has a GSR and I'm going to look at his setup and go off of it for parts of this solution.

Tamboo supplied this link to a manual Link

And I found this schematic that will be also used for the routing of vacuum lines Link

This is the schematic for the routing of the coolant lines Link. I've read in a few places that the routing of coolant to these places are only for super cold starts. and since I'm in Florida, we rarely see the temps those are designed for. I'm going to review this information and inform myself of that for sure. But now I have the route paths I was looking for.






Thanks in advance to anyone that can help out.
 
Last edited:

themiller13

New Member
Solution: ABS code 1-5
I used this link to find out what it meant. Link

Also updated the OP about the ECU and coolant routing issues.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Thats not a P72 bc there is no knock board. It looks like a P28 but thats largely irrelevant for this discussion. The part number on the bar code sticker will confirm the Ecu type.

Now for the CEL, you need an OBD1 scanner. They do exist.

The reprogrammed EPROM has nothing to do with the OBD diagnostics so not to worry.

Yes you can run a stock (unchipped) ECU for testing. Assuming your wiring harness is not hacked up you can either run a stock OBD1 Ecu with the conversion harness or OBD2 ecu without conversion harness. You wont fry the engine because you're not racing it, just driving around normally to reproduce error codes.

The coolant lines running through the bottom of the throttle body do absolutely nothing. Its fine to leave them plugged.

Its been a long time since I worked on a stock GSR so I dont remember where all the vac lines go. Your best bet is to download the factory service manual from hondahookup.com and google image "Integra GSR engine bays" to use as a reference for the stock lines.
 

themiller13

New Member
Upped with a new issue. The unidentified bolt and bracket.

Went stupid and accidentally deleted the information. Here's the pic again. It appears that Muckman is my savior again.

IMG_1365 by themiller13, on Flickr
 


Last edited:

zack11122

New Member
Sorry i forgot to check the price on shipping. Is it cool if I do it monday.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Its confusing that your adding new issues to the original post. Just post new issues as a new reply.

Thats a heat shield for the shift linkage bushing. Its silly, you dont need it.
 

themiller13

New Member
Muckman said:
Its confusing that your adding new issues to the original post. Just post new issues as a new reply.

Thats a heat shield for the shift linkage bushing. Its silly, you dont need it.
Click to expand...
Here I am thinking that I was being slick keeping the problems up top.

You know your stuff so I'm not doubting you, just trying to clarify on my end. Are you referring to the two smaller bolt holes or the big hole that has a bolt running from that bracket to the transmission? I realize now that I did not do a good job in points specifically to which one I was referring to.

I found another perspective from another site

Its the biggest hex head in the leftern most part of the image.
 
Last edited:

Muckman

Not a M0derator
I dont even know what the original question was now.

From what I remember of the original picture (now removed) the missing object in the picture was the heatshield that covered the shift linkage bushing (your left red circle).

Shown here:


Was this what you were originally asking?
 

themiller13

New Member
Muckman said:
I dont even know what the original question was now.

From what I remember of the original picture (now removed) the missing object in the picture was the heatshield that covered the shift linkage bushing (your left red circle).

Shown here:


Was this what you were originally asking?
Click to expand...
My computer spazed out while I was trying to move information to match the format you suggested. My mistake. The original question was what size (thread pitch and length) the missing bolt was. The original photo was ambiguous as to which bolt I was pointing to. I see now the heat shield that you are talking about but no. That is not the bolt I'm talking about. I've taken a screen shot of the image you provided and triangulated the bolt in question with some arrows. Hopefully my explanation is more understandable now.

Screen Shot 2014-05-29 at 10.29.18 PM by themiller13, on Flickr




EDIT

I found it fortunately, the piece is a transmission brace. The type-r used a solid piece to secure the tranny to the engine, while nontype-r's use a two piece format to solve the same issue.

I found the link that shows the schematic of it all. Its under "cylinder block" I never would have thought to look there, fortunately someone else had this issue when they tried to run a Moroso oil pan on a type-r and it didn't fit due to the 1-piece brace.

Heres the Link. The bolt I was after is number 40 in the schematic
 
Last edited:

Muckman

Not a M0derator
M12x1.25

95% of the bolts on the car are either M6x1.0, Mx1.25, M10x1.25 or M12x1.25 in various lengths of course.
 

themiller13

New Member
Muckman said:
M12x1.25

95% of the bolts on the car are either M6x1.0, Mx1.25, M10x1.25 or M12x1.25 in various lengths of course.
Click to expand...
Thank you again! I might change the thread title to "Muckman, help me work out my issues." Your help is very much appreciated.
 
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