things to replace while motor is out?

Nismor

Member
Hello CI Im getting ready to pull out my motor out of a 00 gsr (dc2) and drop into a 98 gsr (DB8) so my question is what parts should I be looking to change since the motor will be out and a hole lot easier to work on. I already have a water pump I'm also going to get a timing belt but what other parts should I be adding to my list I would like to be ready for when I do pull out the motor. If possible also what you guys recommend OEM or aftermarket.
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
Things I replaced when I did a swap a few years ago:
-All the belts
-Water pump
-Timing belt tensioner pulley
-Steering rack (had one fail before and changing it with the motor in was murder)
-Motor mounts, I got poly inserts from Prothane (upper 2) and Energy Suspension (lower 3) and replaced the bottom two anti torsion mounts
-Oil pan gasket
-Valve cover gasket
-Header
-Clutch and resurfaced the flywheel
-Some hoses
-Shifter bushings
I also did a complete A/C delete at the time since it was not working and I didn't feel like messing around with it.

Things I didn't replace that I should have:
-Transmission CV and intermediate shaft seals. These are important, my trans leaked quite a bit of fluid and it led to howling, grinding between some shifts, and 5th gear pop-outs. I eventually sold the car because I didn't have the time to search for and replace the transmission.
-Oil pump
-Oxygen sensors (header and cat)
-Fuel filter
-Dizzy cap and rotor

Other things I replaced while the car was taken apart:
-Upper & lower control arm bushings
-CV shafts
-Rear wheel bearings
-Upper and lower ball joints

Empty the transmission before you take out the CV or intermediate shafts, the head of the drain bolt has a recessed square that accepts a 3/8" drive extension. The shafts are kind of a pain to get out of the trans. Trans fluid is really nasty stuff, it stains everything forever and smells like burning asshole.

Also note that starting in 00 the cars came equipped with a chipped key and an immobilizer. If you have to change the ECU in the 98 you can run into starting problems with the ignition cylinder.
 

Nismor

Member
Thanks a lot merlins that really helps sounds like my to do list just got a hole lot more interesting. I'll be using my 00 ecu, does that mean I also need to swap my ignition cylinder?
 
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Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
Nismor said:
Thanks a lot merlins that really helps sounds like my top do list just got a hole lot more interesting. I'll be using my 00 ecu, does that mean I also need to swap my ignition cylinder?
Click to expand...
No problem.
I never tried starting the car with the original ignition cylinder or an unchipped key so I don't know if you will need to. I have heard of people doing swaps between the chipped and unchipped years and having starting problems resulting from the immobilizer.

My swap was a crashed 00 LS going into a 99 GS-R shell. Rather than chopping up the harnesses to make the LS ecu fit I pulled the dashboard and swapped the harness among other things.
The shell had one mess of an aftermarket alarm installed so I switched the ignition cylinder while putting the dash back together instead of dealing with the horrible mass of wires the ignition had become.

Overall I ended up swapping the engine and trans, 75% of the interior, oem optional sideskirts, rear bumper cover and lights (car had 94-97 rear end), hatch (wingless), hood, front struts and camber kit, entire rear suspension, exhaust, and the brakes.
So basically the entire drivetrain, chassis and most of the interior.
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
72Spitfire said:
Steering rack. Do it now.
Click to expand...
When mine failed I remember spending 7 hours in a self service junkyard removing one from a car with the engine in it, then spending about 15 hours over 2 days replacing the bad one, again with the engine still in the car.

Replacing it with the engine out of the car took about 2 hours, including getting it out of the crashed car.

Timing belt was also a million times easier, that took about 30-45 minutes with the engine out.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
Merlins Beard said:
When mine failed I remember spending 7 hours in a self service junkyard removing one from a car with the engine in it, then spending about 15 hours over 2 days replacing the bad one, again with the engine still in the car.

Replacing it with the engine out of the car took about 2 hours, including getting it out of the crashed car.

Timing belt was also a million times easier, that took about 30-45 minutes with the engine out.
Click to expand...
That's because it is easier to just drop the whole subframe to do it. It will only take a few hours if you do it that way.
 
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