Water pump and timing belt help/ head trouble!!!

g35cpe

New Member
Ok so i am very much in need of advice. About a week ago i broke my timing belt due to frozen water in the pump ( i am assuming) so i thawed the engine out and pulled off the head to make sure i didn't bend a valve. When the belt broke it was the first start of the morning so i was told by numerous people that i probablly didnt' bend a valve but to make sure i pulled the head off anyway. Upon inspenctiion i see no obvious signs of piston to valve contact. All i really see is that is some carbon buildup on top of the pistons. The valves all appear to be seated so i don't think i bent any. My questions are what do i do now? Im about to order parts and so far i have on my list head gasket, valve cover gasket, head seal, water pump, timing belt, and tensioner oh and head bolts. Is there anything im missing? Should i get the head milled? I can't tell if it's warped any and alot of people have to me if i pull it off i have to get it milled. Is there anyway i can clean the carbon buildup on the pistons and in the combustion chamber? any other advice will be most appreciated. Im hoping to get parts ordered in the next day or so and putting it back together by the weekend. Thanks in advance. also i have no idea if this makes any difference but the intake valves are nice and smooth but have carbon buildup on them and the exhaust valves are i would say a whiteish color and a bit more rough is this normal?
 
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Jeremyf100

New Member
Lay a straight edge (something you know is dead straight) on the head surface, across the combustion cambers and diagonally across the head and see if u can slide a feeler gauge in between the two. Max warpage is 0.003 in. in a 6 in span or 0.006 in. over the total lenght of the head
 

g35cpe

New Member
ok thanks for the help. So im guessing i can just about anything dead straight.If the head is warped more than the specs you stated is that when i would take it to get milled? Do you know how or what i use to clean up the combustion chamber and or pistons?
 

Roger_96integra

Roger_96integra
you also wanna replace your valve stem seals since you already have the head out and you can just clean the top of the pistons with throttle body cleaner and a metal brush
 


g35cpe

New Member
ok thanks for the input what do i do about the gunk though? Im asking what is the most affective way to get the gunk up without dropping it into the water jacket?
 
Lay a straight edge (something you know is dead straight) on the head surface, across the combustion cambers and diagonally across the head and see if u can slide a feeler gauge in between the two. Max warpage is 0.003 in. in a 6 in span or 0.006 in. over the total lenght of the head
Tried that once before, shit leaked like a bitch.
Anytime you pull the head off after it's been torqued down and ran, have it decked strait. Decking costs like $50 at most machine shops and it's definitely worth it.
 

g35cpe

New Member
Is decking and milling the same thing? Basically resurfacing the head so it's back straight?
 


g35cpe

New Member
Ok thanks for all the help... I went by today and finished pulling of small things like intake manifold, brackets, etc. I'm taking it to the machine shop tomorrow and parts are on the way. Anyone else think I need anything else. Can I reuse my intake Manifold gasket I just put it on maybe 2-3 months ago looks to be in good shape?
 

g35cpe

New Member
I noticed yesterday when i was taking everything of the head that there was oil on the spark plug for cylinder no. 1 i need to replace the seals that go on the bolttom of the valve cover right? Not the valve cover gasket itself but the circular seals that go on the bottom or is it another seal causing that?
 

wite2nr

New Member
Ok thanks for all the help... I went by today and finished pulling of small things like intake manifold, brackets, etc. I'm taking it to the machine shop tomorrow and parts are on the way. Anyone else think I need anything else. Can I reuse my intake Manifold gasket I just put it on maybe 2-3 months ago looks to be in good shape?
is it a thermal gasket or regular one? you can reuse a thermal/plastic gasket, but usually regular material gaskets get stuck on the head or manifold. if it didn't get stuck and is in good shape then you can reuse it.
I noticed yesterday when i was taking everything of the head that there was oil on the spark plug for cylinder no. 1 i need to replace the seals that go on the bolttom of the valve cover right? Not the valve cover gasket itself but the circular seals that go on the bottom or is it another seal causing that?
yes, those are called the tube seals. you can buy them at honda, or parts stores usually sell a "top end" or valve cover gasket set which usually comes with a new valve cover gasket, the tube seals, and all the rubber washers for the valve cover bolts for a price of around 25 dollhairs
 

g35cpe

New Member
25 dollhairs that's alot of dollhairs do dolls come with that many??? lol thanks for the info. Just got the head back from machine shop no bent valves cleaned and resurfaced just waiting on parts now. Oh yea i cannot for the life of me get this crank pulley bolt to break loose. Ive tried impact gun, breaker bar, 16" breaker bar with another foot long cheater bar anybody have any tip/tricks? Is it really ok to put the car in gear and try to break it loose i don't wanna have to rip apart my tranny....again

just read somewhere honda rotating assemblies turn counter-clockwise if that's true i have been tightening the bolt for two days thinking i was loosening it wtf
 
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wite2nr

New Member
yes they turn counter clockwise in essence tightening the bolt as time goes on. what you need is a honda crank pulley tool it looks like this

 

g35cpe

New Member
Yea I am gonna borrow one from my friends dad who runs a shop and I'm gonna turn it clockwise this time *lol* hopefully with Better results this time!!!..
 

g35cpe

New Member
so i went today and bought a chain wrench (what the haynes manual says to use) to break the nut loose and so far i hav broken 3 cornwell sockets, two 2ft long breaker bars and about 5 1/2" drive extensions and the bolt is still tight as can be. Just to make sure if i and looking at the crank pulley i need to turn it to toward the rear of the car to break it loose right?
 
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