what cams shouls i get?

[rubyredteg]

im confused as well.

Samurai_Blue, I understood the rest of what you were saying and everything in the next post you put, but this confuses me. A specific minimum compression ratio, yes, but a specific bore size? Could you explain? I'm not saying I think you're wrong...just don't see how a cam would even "see" bore size.

 

[seahtech]

Samurai_Blue, I understood the rest of what you were saying and everything in the next post you put, but this confuses me. A specific minimum compression ratio, yes, but a specific bore size? Could you explain? I'm not saying I think you're wrong...just don't see how a cam would even "see" bore size.

There is such a thing as "over-cam'd" or "under-cam'd" whereas the properties of the cam out perform the abilities of the engine. The cam is able to draw more the engine can hold so your not getting the most possible and could potentially make more power with a milder cam. That make sense? This is why it is very important to match all your build parts.. Cam A may make 220whp on engine X but same only 210 on engine Y because engine X has parts that are better matched to work together.


A poor mans type r is a gsr block with a b16 head. This is because the b16 head has the same cast as the itr heads minus the hand polishing. If you want as close to a b18c5 as possible then yes stuff the insides with all itr components but really if your going to do this use aftermarket parts and make more power since your already going to have everything torn apart.

 

[you a hater]

good information .... i like it haha didnt even have to ask any questions i feel better abt getting cams now

 

[SexySSBP]

There is such a thing as "over-cam'd" or "under-cam'd" whereas the properties of the cam out perform the abilities of the engine. The cam is able to draw more the engine can hold so your not getting the most possible and could potentially make more power with a milder cam. That make sense? This is why it is very important to match all your build parts.. Cam A may make 220whp on engine X but same only 210 on engine Y because engine X has parts that are better matched to work together.


A poor mans type r is a gsr block with a b16 head. This is because the b16 head has the same cast as the itr heads minus the hand polishing. If you want as close to a b18c5 as possible then yes stuff the insides with all itr components but really if your going to do this use aftermarket parts and make more power since your already going to have everything torn apart.

I understand what you are saying, but I would think that other factors would come into play before bore size...head flow, compression ratio, header and intake style...idk...maybe I'm looking at it backwards...

 

[callmedj]

what about if you were to build up a JDM B20B stock with a GSR or B16 HEAD? what stage should someone get? and what would be better for all around driving? i was thinking of doing skunk tuner 2 but not sure now that buddy club seems like a good buy

 

[seahtech]

what about if you were to build up a JDM B20B stock with a GSR or B16 HEAD? what stage should someone get? and what would be better for all around driving? i was thinking of doing skunk tuner 2 but not sure now that buddy club seems like a good buy

If you are running the stock b20 pistions your choice of cams is very limited. This is because the b20 pistons have very small valve reliefs and you will run into some major and very critical piston-to-valve clearance issues. The best is a mild cam like SK2 1 series or Buddy Club 3+. If you are unsure if the cams you want will be within the clearance specs or not take it to a reputable engine builder or your local tuner shop and ask them. And if you ever here a tapping/pinging noise, especially on start up, shut your engine off asap and dont start it up again because you are hitting the valves.

I understand what you are saying, but I would think that other factors would come into play before bore size...head flow, compression ratio, header and intake style...idk...maybe I'm looking at it backwards...

I think I understand what your trying to get at and my simplest answer is that its all relative. For a bigger agressive cam yes you need an efficient flowing exhaust to get the air out and intake manifold/piping to get the air in.

For most basic cams you can get away will either simple head work or none at all; although doing headwork will yield exponential gains. There will be a point at which you have maxed out the flow capabilities of your intake and exhaust systems. And it is at this point where headwork becomes necessary.

Compression ratio does play a major part with cam selection but also with what other mods you have chosen to do. Hence why there are cams that are more orientated towards boost vs all motor.

Of course bore size plays a major role in power production. In theory, and practice, the bigger the bore the more ponies. This is because of a multitude of reasons that I wont get into right now.

Basically at the end of the day an engine that has a set of parts that "go together" will out perform 6 days a week and twice on sunday an engine that is stuffed full of big name parts that are thrown together because of what brand they are, how they look, copy-cat brands, or becaus of improper research etc.

edit: damn this post is big.. hehe sorry

 

[SexySSBP]

seahtech...ya, we are on the same page. I am well aware that abuild needs to be planned out and it all needs to work together, which is why I thought simply singling out bore size was a little odd. There is far more that comes into play than just bore size when choosing a cam. I think you may be reading more into my posts than what I intended, I've been around motors for a while, just not hondas Haha...just realized that my teggy has about 25% the cubes that my last car project had :twisted: