What do These do?

.Cortez

94' LS
I'm looking to do some cheat suspension work on my car, I want to do add a Rear Lower Tie Bar, And Both front and rear strut bars. Aswell as a Subframe brace. Will all this stuff help me? What does each do? Thanks guys.
 
they all help to stiffen up the suspension and minimize body roll.. If you don't plan to do any road racing or Auto X you really wont notice much of a difference
 

.Cortez

94' LS
Well Im preparing the car for autoX Next season, and I know this stuff will help. Im not expecting to notice much DD.
 

BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
^Agreed with Dave. The biggest upgrades you can do to our handling-wise is getting a nice set of tires and adding a 3-point front strut tower brace. Then would be springs/shocks or coilovers, and a rear sway. A nice set of rear LCA's and UCA's all around never hurt either. Everything after that (bushings, tie bars, etc.) is for racing applications IMO.

Well designed tie bars and strut bars minimize flex in the area they're applied when cornering (i.e. circuit racing). A lot of cheaper ones - like Megan or DC tie bars - are made of cheap metal with movable joints and are not very rigid, thus they fail at their intended job.

Subframe braces such as the ASR brace add a bit of rigidity but are mainly used for mounting large sway bars. Big sway bars have a tendency to tear holes in DC/EG/EJ subframes when used in extreme cornering situations like circuit racing. Adding a subframe brace allows a large sway bar to be mounted to the brace rather than the subframe, thus putting most of the stress on a non-integral part of the car.

EDIT** Just saw you wanted to auto-x.

Get a good set of tires, a 3-point front strut tower bar for turn-in, and add polyurethane bushings to all of your suspension pieces.


You need to make your suspension decisions based on your class limitations as well.
 
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.Cortez

94' LS
Wow, Great post! +invisible repuatation. That helped allot. I had no clue what a subframe brace did! As for what I was going to go with I was trying to do PWJDM Strut bars, Beaks lower tie bar and a ASR Subframe brace, I havn't heard bad about any of these, and their not crazy priced.
 

.Cortez

94' LS
Good news, as all this will definatly be purchases well worth it. I just need to get a suspension in the spring and I'm set after these!

Edit: Yeah I'm not buying a F'n Mugen Tie bar, 350 for a small peice of metal I can get for 150 or way cheaper is way more worth it. Plus I can't go spend all that cash, I'm a poor school boy :( haha!
 

heykosal

Angkorian
they all help to stiffen up the suspension and minimize body roll.. If you don't plan to do any road racing or Auto X you really wont notice much of a difference
That's false.

Dont forget that when u autocross you automatically tend to camber in on corners.. With a lower tie bar this will help minimize that too...

All of this will help Suspension, Chassis and body roll.
lol. I know what you're trying to say but how you said it is just funny. Not really much help to a n00b.

OP, do some research. Obviously if you aren't going to be tracking your car often then you won't need to go all out. For example, you'll be okay with seperate rear upper bar and c-pillar bar, as opposed to an x-brace or triangulated bars. The only thing I definitely recommend is get solid upper strut bars, not the kind that is a bar that bolts to seperate mounting brackets.
 
That's false.



lol. I know what you're trying to say but how you said it is just funny. Not really much help to a n00b.

OP, do some research. Obviously if you aren't going to be tracking your car often then you won't need to go all out. For example, you'll be okay with seperate rear upper bar and c-pillar bar, as opposed to an x-brace or triangulated bars. The only thing I definitely recommend is get solid upper strut bars, not the kind that is a bar that bolts to seperate mounting brackets.


Its true, and What I said is correct.. I don't see anything funny about it..
 

Kuchtaboy

Unregistered User
lol, "SpooledupRacing" is getting attacked in this thread! Jeeze!.....

A stock GSR front strut bar would do you just fine if you're looking on a budget... I honestly didn't notice much of a difference between the 2 on my civic when i switched them out....

Second, I highly recommend a bigger rear swaybar before you'd need any sort of c-pillar bar or rear strut tower bar. It simply doesn't move enough in the rear to need something like that back there to have to use up the extra point in autocross.

Third, Don't buy the ASR subframe bar if you're not going to upgrade your rear swaybar. another waste of money

fourth, As already stated Poly bushings will be the most amazing upgrade you'll ever do to your car.

And Lastly, all of you are wrong about the rear lower tiebar... There's nothing there to flex. The point of having it is to do exactly what any subframe brace does (i.e. Beaks bar/ASR bar).... minimize the possibilities of subframe tear out from using a bigger rear sway bar.

Between those 2 points on the rear end is just metal... There's no actual stress being put there to flex anything, because the flexing is happening in the body top to bottom, not halfway thru....

I haven't experienced it, but I've heard the front H-Brace makes a big difference... just 2 cents.
 

obd1kenobi

CI Transfomer God!
I'm looking to do some cheat suspension work on my car.
Dont go cheap with your springs or whatever you are going to lower your car with

fourth, As already stated Poly bushings will be the most amazing upgrade you'll ever do to your car.
I haven't experienced it, but I've heard the front H-Brace makes a big difference... just 2 cents.
I back that up 100%

When i autoX'ed my gsr, it was lowered on skunk2 full coilovers, factory strut bar and some kumho tires
 

pluckt007

Fat guy in a little coat.
strut bars made a crazy huge differnce, front and back, on my DD.

anybody that's not high on some dank ass cali kush could notice that simply driving up sideways on a driveway.


i noticed it a lot.
 
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