lol sick of seeing this thread
Not gone yet.
So the motor is back together, no new crankshaft bearings, but new rod bearings, rings, and top end gasket and oil pan.
I decided to build the ls/v on a stand so I could better fit my budget along with build it with the parts I really want.
But anyways, the initial issue was hesitations at around 3000rpms and it was extremely under powered.
upon opening the engine up the 2nd piston from the left had oil collected on top, the exhaust valve was partially scorched (which mostly cleaned off), and the outside of the block around this 2nd cylinder at the header had darkening.
The issue is that the engine is still extremely underpowered. It has seemingly regular power (which isn't much) from 1000rpms to 2000rpms and then it feels as if from 2000rpms to 4000rpms it is the same power as if it were at 2000 rpms.
I plan to replace the header as it might have an exhaust leak around this 2nd cylinder at the exhaust flange and head, but what else should I look into?
new (used) head?
solution?
Small update It's 4 a.m at this time here but I found a b16a header on CL for a good price and am getting it tomorrow so I should be able to swap it on and see if it fixes or betters the problem. Why I mentioned the time is that the guy actually replied at the time I texted him. Lol. I always wanted to mention that Honda guys in my experience are a lot nicer and cooperative than muscle guys which are typically huge assholes with small dick simplex. So cheers to the Honda community for that (in comparison to the mustang community I've typically dealt with).
I also wanted to provide some more details about the state of the engine, at the time of the rebuild the pistons had a lot of carbon deposits which mostly cleaned up (less carbon deposit and more oil on the 2nd cylinder though). The walls of the cylinders all looked healthy (eyed it).
Replaced the spark plugs too as the originals looked charred as if the engine was running hot (the engine has never experienced any overheating issues since I've driven it and has always stayed below the mid point).
The rod bearings has scuffs and signs of wear, there was grime even beneath the rod bearings, but again cleaned and replaced.
I also plan to hit the catalytic converter, see if it is stopped up at all as the car originally had one engine code it kept throwing for a dirty cat but since the rebuild has gone away and has not come back on yet. I've only driven the car total less than an hour since the rering/build. My guess as far as the dirty readings is that excessive oil was getting into the 2nd piston chamber, fouling the catalytic converter, causing the code.
