Kileys K20z3 DC D.D.

Beat92240

New Member
I'll keep this list at the beginning of parts used up to date so theres no more question of what is really needed with the z3, sometimes referred to as the most difficult of the K20 swaps because of the DBW throttle body, CannBus system, and other things that well get into during the thread.

Required (Or something similar of a different brand)
K20z3 out of a 06 Civic SI ($400)
K20z3 Trans out of an 09 Civic SI ($175)
K20z3 Starter ($20)
K20a2 Throttle Body with sensors ($115)
K20a2 Engine Harness and Charge Harness ($200)
K20a2 Intermediate Shaft and mounting bolts ($95)
K20a2 Alternator ($40)
PRB-A06 ECU ($225)
OBX Throttle Body Adapter ($61.99)
Hybrid Racing Swap Harness ($180)
Hybrid Racing Tucked Fuel Line Kit ($220)
Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail ($140)
Hybrid Racing K20z3 Swap Shifter ($299)
Hybrid Racing K20z3 Swap Radiator Hoses ($79.99)
Hytech Replica Stainless K-swap Header ($275)
Aeromotive A1000-6 Fuel Pressure Regulator ($128.06)
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge ($19.01)
Aeromotive 15606 ORB-6 to -6AN Adapter x3 ($27.90)
Vibrant Intake Filter ($32.06)
Vibrant 90 degre Intake Tube ($21.48 )
Vibrant Stainless Steel Worm Clamps ($10.45)
Vibrant 2.5" to 3" Reducer Coupler ($17.55)

Optional Stuff:
AP1 Cluster with Pigtails ($300)
Glowshift DC2 twin gauge cluster ($30)
Hybrid Racing K20z3 Oil Cooler Hoses ($14.99)
Hybrid Racing 06 Civic SI Shifter Bushings ($69.99)
Autometer Sport-Comp II Oil Pressure Gauge ($71.74)
Autometer Sport-Comp II Water Temp Gauge ($56.65)
Karcepts Cruise Control Delete Kit with GSR Cable ($80)
91-95 MR2 Electric Power Steering Pump ($200)
Perma-Cool Power Steering Cooler Kit ($80)
Tyco V23232-A0001-X003 12V Diode Surpressed Relay ($20)
Rebuild trans with newest Honda gear set to prevent 2/3 synchro going, new 2/3 synchro, new 3/4 synchro, new axel seals, and new TOB fork seal ($820)
OEM Honda Water Pump: 19200-RBC-013 ($102.34)
OEM Honda Thermostat: 19301-RAF-004 ($31.75)
OEM Honda Timing Chain: 14401-PNA-004 ($73.10)
OEM Honda Tensioner: 14510-PRB-A01 ($51.88 )
OEM Honda Head Gasket: 12251-RBC-004 ($45.79)
OEM Honda Spool Valve Assembly: 15810-PRB-A03 ($90.00)
OEM Acura RDX Injectors/Clips ($155.00)
ACL Race Main/Rod/Thrust Bearings
3/8ths Vac Plug for Idle Air Assist Bypass (??? Had one laying around)
3/8ths NPT Plug for Idle Air Assist Bypass ($1.19)
Walbro 255 In Tank Fuel Pump (Had an extra new one laying around)
Walbro Fuel Pump Install Kit ($11.00)
DEI Reflect-A-GOLD Tape ($25.60)
Exhaust Manifold gasket ($4.87)
Front Main Seal ($2.76)
Rear Main Seal Kit ($15.02)
Accessory Belt Auto Tensioner ($42.89)
Fuel Injector O-Ring Set x 3 for an extra pair ($6.00)
Valve Cover Gasket Set ($19.00)
Valve Stem Seal Kit ($24.79)
Oil Pan Gasket ($14.17)
AEM Power Alternator Pulley ($20)

Index
Wiring - Page 3
Fuel - Page 4
AP1 Cluster - Page 4
Water - Page 5

I got the K20z3 for a rediculously good price from a Honda dealership that pulled it due to a bad water pump that potentially could have blown the headgasket. Since these are usually things I look at and replace during my swaps, no problem.





I decided to clean it up a little bit just so it wasn't so dirty when I was trying to see what I had to work with:



The K20z3 trans I got from another dealership that pulled it due to the 2/3 syncro being bad. As anyone knows this is very common on these transmissions. Again, I always have my transmission rebuilt before swaps, so no biggie. I actually just got an update from the place I take all my transmissions to (Probuilt Transmission in Bulter PA) that they were going to be throwing in the revised Honda gearing and syncro that was released to address this issue. It'll set me back $795 bucks to rebuild it, but the way I see that is I now have under a grand in a completely rebuilt and known good z3 transmission. Well worth it to me.

Now that my basis was down it was time to start getting the swap materials together.
 
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Beat92240

New Member
First was the K20a2 Throttle Body. The K20z3 comes equipped with a Drive By Wire Throttle Body from the factory. The easiest way to make the conversion to cable driven like our cars come with is by swapping to the a2 cable driven throttle body.

Next is the K20a2 engine harness and charge harness. This is for multiple reasons as far as I can tell. The throttle body swap to remove the DBW, power steering pump, as well as little things such as ECU location are small reasons for the need for this harness. Theres more reasoning to it, but just know that you NEED the a2 harness for this swap.

K20 belt driven power steering pump. The K20z3 powered Civic SI's used electronic power steering pumps. Again the easiest way around this is simply to install a K20 belt driven power steering pump. The idler pulley on the K20z3 unbolts and the K20 belt driven power steering pump bolts directly on to the same bolt locations, even using the same bolts. Therefore this is a true bolt on swap for power steering.

Any K20 intermediate shaft can be used on the swap.

The interior swap harness is required for integration with the chasis harness (gauge cluster, OBDII port, an ECU plug, etc.

I also chose to go with an AP1 cluster. The K20z3 uses a magnetic Vehicle Speed Sensor. S2000's use the same type of VSS. Therefore, I could have either spent a bunch of money on converters to switch to the mechanical VSS signal the DC cluster takes in, or I could spend a couple extra bucks and put in an AP1 cluster and not require any type of converter. I'm a fan of clean installs and keeping it simple, so I went with the AP1 cluster.
 

Beat92240

New Member
Picked up a PRB-A06 ECU today. According to Hondatas website, the following ECU must be used for them to be able to install K-Pro on it:

PRB A01 - PRB A12 & 305.

Can be found in:

02-04 RSX Type S vehicles
MUST BE MANUAL to use KPro (NOTE: All PRB ECU's are manual. Automatic ECU's have 2 extra plugs in the middle of the ECU. So I'm not sure why Hondata has this on their site...but just figured I'd add it onto my post of why I'm buying the things I'm buying.)

Also as an answer to a question I had and no one on the swap forums really came out and answered is can you use the factory K20z3 ecu? I was looking for a cheaper way out than full blown KPro and questioned if I could use Hondatas Flashpro for civic SI on the factory ECU. I went to Jeff Evans (who inevitably will be tuning it) for the answer. He explained that due to the difference in drive by wire throttle body and the much larger issue that the newer ECU's (including 06 and up SI's) incorporate a CAN bus system present in the chassis. So rather than swapping over basically the whole CAN system somehow...much easier to just get the 02-04 A2 ecu.


I also picked up my tranmission from being rebuilt. Ended up being about $820 after tax and all was said and done. They installed the upgraded 2/3 synchro and gear set to the current updated Honda set that they are putting in at dealerships now to solve the 3 popping out of gear and the just bad syncro design that orignally came in the transmission. They also cleaned her all up, re-sealed everything and even got me a new shift fork booty!

This saturday I'm busy hopefully finishing up the motor work on my 240 but I plan on taking the motor up to get checked out and re-freshed next Saturday.
 
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jbrown97ls

Active Member
I really like that you're giving information on what you need for your build and why you need it rather than just uploading photos like myself :p. Very interested in this build. Keep us updated!
 

Beat92240

New Member
endo617 said:
Looking for a shell yet or find anything
Click to expand...
I'm just going to use my 94 integra RS that currently just has an LS of unknown mileage and horrible blow by.  It's a ticking timebomb so this will be my replacement.

DailyDB8 said:
gay enough to rape you in the boooootay!!!
Click to expand...
Yeah what he said!  

My reasoning for going K:
No more dizzy issues
Timing chain instead of belt
Mo powa on the factory motor (since I want to keep it as close to stock as possible for reliability)
I got that shi cheap as fawk!!!!
 

Havok114

New Member
Beat92240 said:
I'm just going to use my 94 integra RS that currently just has an LS of unknown mileage and horrible blow by.  It's a ticking timebomb so this will be my replacement.



Yeah what he said!  

My reasoning for going K:
No more dizzy issues
Timing chain instead of belt
Mo powa on the factory motor (since I want to keep it as close to stock as possible for reliability)
I got that shi cheap as fawk!!!!
Click to expand...
Lol yea right, I just don't like people around here that have a kswap they think they run this town haha
But goodluck

Sent from my PAGER
 
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