need help with my harness!!!
- Thread starter isaacdc2
- Start date
Merlins Beard
*Beard not included
Went bad...like expired? :lol:
What happened to your current harness? I assume you have a B18B1, correct? Which harness is bad (engine, main, body, a/c)? How did you come to the conclusion that it was the harness and not a connection or fuse? Are you certain that you want to do an ls/vtec build and have you done enough research about ls/vtec builds?
What happened to your current harness? I assume you have a B18B1, correct? Which harness is bad (engine, main, body, a/c)? How did you come to the conclusion that it was the harness and not a connection or fuse? Are you certain that you want to do an ls/vtec build and have you done enough research about ls/vtec builds?
isaacdc2
New Member
am able to crank my car using a cable direcly from positive terminal to the starter solenoid but when I connect the solenoid to the harness and try starring it I get a electric shut off. couple people told me to just change the harness. and ive done some research on lsv but still need more homework am not a mechanic or a race car driver just trying to have some fun that's why I asked this questions even if they seem funny to more veteran Honda builders or why not.
Merlins Beard
*Beard not included
Check your main relay, I don't think you need a whole new harness. You should wait for a few more people to input on the problem.
As for the build, ls/vtec engines are not bolt-on builds. The problem with them is that most people think they are, and their unreliable reputation stems from that. People slap a B18C or B16 head on their LS B18B block and call it a day. The B18B bottom is made for a max rpm of 7200 (I believe is fuel cutoff point) but the B18C can do 1000 more rpm, people then drive them above 7200 rpm and something in the bottom end breaks pretty quick. To have a reliable ls/vtec, you need to build up the bottom to handle the extra revs and power output. They are usually pretty expensive engines to build correctly. If you just want some more fun in your car then a swap would be less labor intensive, and in most cases cheaper. An ls/vtec engine can be made to be very reliable but it is not a cheap or easy process.
As for the build, ls/vtec engines are not bolt-on builds. The problem with them is that most people think they are, and their unreliable reputation stems from that. People slap a B18C or B16 head on their LS B18B block and call it a day. The B18B bottom is made for a max rpm of 7200 (I believe is fuel cutoff point) but the B18C can do 1000 more rpm, people then drive them above 7200 rpm and something in the bottom end breaks pretty quick. To have a reliable ls/vtec, you need to build up the bottom to handle the extra revs and power output. They are usually pretty expensive engines to build correctly. If you just want some more fun in your car then a swap would be less labor intensive, and in most cases cheaper. An ls/vtec engine can be made to be very reliable but it is not a cheap or easy process.
isaacdc2
New Member
thanks ill look more into the lsv set up. would my ls be good on low boost 5-8 psi ?? more cost effective then a lsv conversion? and my car stays on once I crank it do you still think is my relay ?? or is their anything else I should check for ?? again appreciate your assistance knowledge is very helpful