Screw team integra and hello CI
- Thread starter 604
- Start date
604
New Member
Thanks for the welcome man.
Also, if anyone has any tips with regard to swapping in an OBD2a c1 motor into a OBD1 rs shell, let me know. The motor has the harness attached to it, so I wont need to convert the injectors or dizzy, or worry about the crank angle sensor.
I think I just will need an ecu, 4 wires, and a new throttle cable. Let me know if anyone has any tips!
604
New Member
Cant I just run an obd1 p72 ecu? That's what I plan on doing.
604
New Member
Sup guys
So it took us 11 HOURS to do the swap. Me and 2 friends, and my GF was there to help separate the ball joints. She is the ball joint separator, which is scary sometimes, just kidding, she ROCKS!
It was my first swap, the biggest job before this was removing the head to replace a headgasket, so this was much more difficult. Some background on the swap:
OBD1 shell (LS, 95)
OBD2 motor (GS-R, 96)
OBD2 motor harness (GS-R, 96)
A few things that I should have done before hand haha
- Removed the oil filter, I actually couldnt get it off with the motor in the car, and had to go to a buddies shop to use an oil filter wrench
- One of the heater-core hoses doesn't line up great, it is slightly kinked, but it works. I am anticipating it to blow off any day now hehe
- I did pre-wiring for vtec, but I kept throwing codes. This is what was happening
I would hit vtec and I would get a CEL
- Code 6 - Evap temp or something?
- Code 10 - Coolant Temp
- Code 21 - Vtec SOL
- Code 23 - Knock sensor
I did break the knock sensor in half accidently, damn that thing is fragile, but it ended up being a crappy ecu. For a while I thought I had a short somewhere or maybe the broken knock sensor was triggering something, but it was just a shitty ECU. What a headache! I put in a chipped p28 with knock/o2 delete and a gsr basemap. It also has launch control (I'll never use this). I am happy everything is working properly.... Also some notes:
I have to admit, that b**** pin was pretty tough. Also, my thighs have been sore for about a week now. I was slouched over the car for the whole day and kept getting on the ground/standing up. Not sure if I pulled them or if they are sore.... Ive done squats before many times but this is like nothing else!
I'm going to write a detailed swap thread because it took me a long time to get prepped and there were a few tips I wish I knew of.
So far the swap is great, the only thing I havent done is a valve lash, and figured out my IAB. I am getting no vacuum to my IAB solenoid so I am pretty torqueless at low RPMs, but I am fortunately able to hear VTEC nicely at 4400. This might go away once my IABs start working but whatever
Here is a teaser pic. I'll get some pics of the car once I clean it
And guys, please remember to work safely. There were a few instances where people could have gotten hurt. Usually when I jack my car up, I will jack it from the side skirt (put a book or something on it) and put the jack stand on the jack point right beside it. I cant really get the car high enough from the front so this has been my method for over 2 years now. Well, the car was slightly wet, and the car slipped off of the jack and fortunately landed on the jack point on the jack stand!!!!
Here is another situation.
The car was on jack stands and we just started her up. Everything was good, no codes, nothing! Gave her a few revs and let her idle. Kept pouring coolant in and burping the system. So after the coolant was topped off, we were going to remove the jackstands. I took a block of wood and a jack in the front, lifted the car a bit, and removed both jackstands. As I lower the car it SLIPS OFF OF the front jackpoint, the car drops and the rad sticks up above the bumper by about 5 inches. I fucking froze and just stared at it..... Felt this warm feeling go from my chest to my balls.
The car was still running and I got my friend to shut it off. Fortunately the only thing damaged was the 2 rad stays The rad was even perfectly fine. Just be very careful when working on a car for this long..... The dumbest thing is that even with the jack+block of wood in the front, the car is too low to be lowered, so this wouldn't have worked anyways!
Thats all for now, more pics soon
So it took us 11 HOURS to do the swap. Me and 2 friends, and my GF was there to help separate the ball joints. She is the ball joint separator, which is scary sometimes, just kidding, she ROCKS!
It was my first swap, the biggest job before this was removing the head to replace a headgasket, so this was much more difficult. Some background on the swap:
OBD1 shell (LS, 95)
OBD2 motor (GS-R, 96)
OBD2 motor harness (GS-R, 96)
A few things that I should have done before hand haha
- Removed the oil filter, I actually couldnt get it off with the motor in the car, and had to go to a buddies shop to use an oil filter wrench
- One of the heater-core hoses doesn't line up great, it is slightly kinked, but it works. I am anticipating it to blow off any day now hehe
- I did pre-wiring for vtec, but I kept throwing codes. This is what was happening
I would hit vtec and I would get a CEL
- Code 6 - Evap temp or something?
- Code 10 - Coolant Temp
- Code 21 - Vtec SOL
- Code 23 - Knock sensor
I did break the knock sensor in half accidently, damn that thing is fragile, but it ended up being a crappy ecu. For a while I thought I had a short somewhere or maybe the broken knock sensor was triggering something, but it was just a shitty ECU. What a headache! I put in a chipped p28 with knock/o2 delete and a gsr basemap. It also has launch control (I'll never use this). I am happy everything is working properly.... Also some notes:
I have to admit, that b**** pin was pretty tough. Also, my thighs have been sore for about a week now. I was slouched over the car for the whole day and kept getting on the ground/standing up. Not sure if I pulled them or if they are sore.... Ive done squats before many times but this is like nothing else!
I'm going to write a detailed swap thread because it took me a long time to get prepped and there were a few tips I wish I knew of.
So far the swap is great, the only thing I havent done is a valve lash, and figured out my IAB. I am getting no vacuum to my IAB solenoid so I am pretty torqueless at low RPMs, but I am fortunately able to hear VTEC nicely at 4400. This might go away once my IABs start working but whatever
Here is a teaser pic. I'll get some pics of the car once I clean it
And guys, please remember to work safely. There were a few instances where people could have gotten hurt. Usually when I jack my car up, I will jack it from the side skirt (put a book or something on it) and put the jack stand on the jack point right beside it. I cant really get the car high enough from the front so this has been my method for over 2 years now. Well, the car was slightly wet, and the car slipped off of the jack and fortunately landed on the jack point on the jack stand!!!!
Here is another situation.
The car was on jack stands and we just started her up. Everything was good, no codes, nothing! Gave her a few revs and let her idle. Kept pouring coolant in and burping the system. So after the coolant was topped off, we were going to remove the jackstands. I took a block of wood and a jack in the front, lifted the car a bit, and removed both jackstands. As I lower the car it SLIPS OFF OF the front jackpoint, the car drops and the rad sticks up above the bumper by about 5 inches. I fucking froze and just stared at it..... Felt this warm feeling go from my chest to my balls.
The car was still running and I got my friend to shut it off. Fortunately the only thing damaged was the 2 rad stays
The rad was even perfectly fine. Just be very careful when working on a car for this long..... The dumbest thing is that even with the jack+block of wood in the front, the car is too low to be lowered, so this wouldn't have worked anyways!Thats all for now, more pics soon
Last edited: