wierd problems
- Thread starter macdman
- Start date
VRVC94
New Member
if the automatic seatbelt stoped working its probably because the motor had stoped working..First there is are 2 30 amp fuses under the hood in the main fuse box (with the abs fuses etc). I think they label them right and left actuator or regulator. check and make sure they are good. This is the main fuse to the motor.
If this was not the problem just behind the door ("B" pillar) on the interior is a small plasic cover you can take off. You will see some blue plastic that you can pull off. You will see a rod in the center that will accept a hex head. Use a screwdriver with the correct head to turn the seat belt motor manually to the rear position. Then try to close the door. If it returns to the front then you can always turn it back and remove the fuse to keep it in the rear position.
- I discovered the problem to be with the integrated switch located in the door latch (on the door itself). - I used a can of silicone spray and doused the door latch with it, all while manually actuating the the latch with a screwdriver as if I were opening and closing the door repeatedly (better to use something that won't score the plastic or metal components). - Also, pull on the door handle to release the latch back to the open position. - The more silicone I sprayed into the latch crevices, the more rust came out--my passenger door isn't used very much so apparently corrosion had built up. - A few hits of Liquid Wrench to dissolve any rust might get better results. - Testing out the actuation of the automatic seatbelt on the side that does work will give you a better idea of how it all operates, i.e. at what point the switch gets triggered.
- Worst case, might have to replace the latch assembly on the door. (www.acuraautomotiveparts.org has great prices on original Acura parts).
.seeing a dealer will be a bad mistake since ones you get your car in there, they are gonna try to make the money... i recently learned that in your local mechanic shop you can call and ask if they test ecu's so all u gotta do is unplug your ecu take it to your local shop and just get charged to check it prob cost you around 80 bucks... i know this because my buddy started working at a shop and told me when a mechanic at a shop tries all and cant find a problem they have placed were they go test the ecu to check if something is wrong...
If this was not the problem just behind the door ("B" pillar) on the interior is a small plasic cover you can take off. You will see some blue plastic that you can pull off. You will see a rod in the center that will accept a hex head. Use a screwdriver with the correct head to turn the seat belt motor manually to the rear position. Then try to close the door. If it returns to the front then you can always turn it back and remove the fuse to keep it in the rear position.
- I discovered the problem to be with the integrated switch located in the door latch (on the door itself). - I used a can of silicone spray and doused the door latch with it, all while manually actuating the the latch with a screwdriver as if I were opening and closing the door repeatedly (better to use something that won't score the plastic or metal components). - Also, pull on the door handle to release the latch back to the open position. - The more silicone I sprayed into the latch crevices, the more rust came out--my passenger door isn't used very much so apparently corrosion had built up. - A few hits of Liquid Wrench to dissolve any rust might get better results. - Testing out the actuation of the automatic seatbelt on the side that does work will give you a better idea of how it all operates, i.e. at what point the switch gets triggered.
- Worst case, might have to replace the latch assembly on the door. (www.acuraautomotiveparts.org has great prices on original Acura parts).
.seeing a dealer will be a bad mistake since ones you get your car in there, they are gonna try to make the money... i recently learned that in your local mechanic shop you can call and ask if they test ecu's so all u gotta do is unplug your ecu take it to your local shop and just get charged to check it prob cost you around 80 bucks... i know this because my buddy started working at a shop and told me when a mechanic at a shop tries all and cant find a problem they have placed were they go test the ecu to check if something is wrong...
imcnblu
Resident G2 Guru of C-I
The ICU. not the ECU. The ECU has nothing to do with the seatbelts, etc. The ICU is the brains to all the little gadgets in your car. The ECU runs the motor, and critical components.ICU, not to be confused with the ECU.
A shop won't test an ICU. Some dealers don't. Call and ask. If they do, ask how much.
You can check it yourself, but it will be harder. I'm not sure what all the dealers would check, but you can pull it out (behind the in car fuse box), and open it up. Look at all the soldered contact points, and check the caps. You might need to get some work done on it. Any electronics repair shop SHOULD be competent enough to do this.
The fact that more than just the seat belts are giving problems hints me to the ICU.