OneFastGSR's GSR

I had 2 t-fittings on back of my oil pressure sending unit, one for turbo feed, one for my PLX oil pressure gauge, I was going to install a golden eagle Oil sandwich plate so I can have oil pressure gauge and the turbo oil feed line directly into the sandwich plate behind the oil filter. That's actually my next purchase for the car, Oil pump o-ring (Last gasket before I can assemble shortblock lol) Golden eagle sandwich plate and a earl's 1/8 NPT to -3AN for my turbo feed.

I've always had problems with my oil pressure gauge readings also. (Still have no idea whether my motor was actually low on pressure or my gauge connection sucked, Now i'm going to make sure the gauge is hooked up how it should. I had brand new main and rod bearings with tight clearances and brand new oem oil pump and my oil pressure showed like 25. So that's why i'm doing everything to make sure it's all proper

So fresh! I really hope I'm still alive to see when this car's finished lol

You know, you could have just attached the sandwich plate to the oem oil cooler. It fits just fine. I have the same thing. I have the oil temp gauge on the sandwich plate, but the oil pressure switch is on the firewall using a -3an feed line and various adapters. Works perfectly fine.

Can't remember why I deleted it other than to have a good turbo feed line spot and a good oil pressure gauge spot. I researched it for hours for pro's and con's of each way and all types of different ways to run everything. This was my favorite way and in the end that's just what I was going to do. It's been awhile since I researched all that... Lol. I just went back a page to see if I posted why but couldn't. I did find a post I put with a new oil pump o-ring in the honda bag that I bought a month or 2 ago... I have to find it!! That's the only o-ring I need to assemble my block, I forgot I bought one!! Thought I didn't buy one..

edit: Found all the stuff from that purchase, Everything is there but the oil pump o-ring.. Damn I have no idea where it could be. Might have to buy another lol

I would run the OEM oil cooler. The later model Integras dont have it but I recently made the switch myself. I don't know how effective it is running 195* coolant through it but it cant hurt.

I don't see any negatives to using it...to each their own I guess. Mine reads perfectly fine. I use innovative gauges though.

Since my oil pump o-ring came in and I have everything to assemble the shortblock, I went ahead and did a quick sand and spray to make it look better than the old nasty color. In some of the deep spots in the block you can still see a red tint to it from the old paint that didn't come off. With the turbo manifold/turbo etc I figure there's no way you can see all those spots anyways so I didn't bother trying to spray it all up again. But once that dries I'll install the oil pump etc

edit: I painted the back of the block now, Also threw more coats on the front. Nomore red front or rear. Block looks great! When I get back from atlanta and I assemble some i'll post some good pictures!

Bottom view of motor. Got to install the rear main seal, clean the oil pan/install it. Than flip it back over

Now that's clean.

My engine is nasty compared to that lol.

I used to paint my blocks too! Looks good for a few weeks until you get oil or fuel on it, finger prints, heat or look at it cross eyed.

new oem oil pump/water pump, new oem timing belt tensioner, downstar oil pump/water pump bolts, driver side mount post installed, new oem coolant pipe/o-rings, catch can adapters installed, and the oil cooler line spot has a sealing bolt in to delete the cooler

Next to do, Install rear main seal with new oem seal, and downstar rear main seal bolts, clean oil pan, install oil pan with downstar oil pan hardware, install ATI super damper, probably going to remove driver side motor mount post and clean it than reinstall it again. Didn't realize how dirty it was. Than after all that I'll see what's next from there

Damn pimp, slowly but surely I guess.

It'll be done one day... Lol. 2.5 years since I've drove the thing. I'm debating whether to use the vibrant timing belt tensioner. You have to shave some of the outside of the block down in order to use it, I didn't know that when buying it.

I don't think you need it. Id like to see a picture of where it contacts the block though.

I like to see a pic of the rear main seal on the block