OneFastGSR's GSR

Muckman

Not a M0derator
You don't even need to drill it out. Just adapt the threads like you said from 12x1.5 male to -8 male then run your hose from there. Keep in mind with the added height of the 90* hose end you wont be able to put the rear seats back in. I dont know if you care about that or if this is a race car.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Here are pictures of my fuel hat. I use the FBM dual pump hanger but the hose routing and fittings are going to be similar.

I used a NPT to -8AN 90* adapter right off the hat. I wanted to tuck the line under the chassis. I still came up 1/2" too tall.


I notched the bevel and used a slide hammer to pull the sheet metal up to clear the hose.


Im still able to screw down the fuel pump cover and the rear seat fits over it - not that its ever used.
 

OneFastGSR

Member
Those are good pictures of what we're trying to see, that and the info helps a ton. The return line on stock hanger seems more complex to modify. You think stock return will be fine? From my understandings the stock return line is not much smaller than -6 at all. Rear seats are definately a must on the car. It's a daily driving street car. Even if the car was fast enough to require a parachute and a roll cage it would still be a street car. It will never be a 100% dedicated track car. Where you pulled the sheet metal it still looks very clean but i'm not sure if there's any other way around it from the looks of it. I guess i'll most likely be doing the same thing..
 

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
You never know when you need the backseat for some hot window fogging action bro
 


Nick_C78

New Member
You guys have clearly never tried to have sex in the back of an integra. Fucking impossible man. Stupid plastic center piece. Being tall doesn't help.

I am liking the progress on this car. I see potential here to be one of the best ones on this site. Muckman's idea is the simple way. You could also notch it out a little too, but yours will have a seat to cover it so really you just need it to fit.
 

R13

The other asshole
Nick4dei said:
You guys have clearly never tried to have sex in the back of an integra. Fucking impossible man. Stupid plastic center piece. Being tall doesn't help.
Click to expand...
I can't even get in the back :lol:

The passenger seat idea doesn't work well either, Even if the girl is short she'll still hit her head on the ceiling.

Sent from my toaster
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
OneFastGSR said:
You think stock return will be fine?
Click to expand...
The return is a lot smaller than -6. You have to compare the ID. What some people do is use the original feed line for the new return line and upgrade the feed line. You could do that maybe. If the return line isnt big enough the result will be high fuel pressure because the regulator isn't capable of bypassing enough fuel. I can't say for sure if you could get away with a stock return line or not. You'd have to research if anyone is running stock lines with the Walbro 450. Probably not.

If you need to keep the rear seat then you need to do something similar to what I did. I would look into using the existing banjo configuration but with a larger banjo. Thats the only way you can use a threaded hose end but keep it low.
 

OneFastGSR

Member
Nick4dei said:
You guys have clearly never tried to have sex in the back of an integra. f***ing impossible man. Stupid plastic center piece. Being tall doesn't help.

I am liking the progress on this car. I see potential here to be one of the best ones on this site. Muckman's idea is the simple way. You could also notch it out a little too, but yours will have a seat to cover it so really you just need it to fit.
Click to expand...
That's like straight motivation, Lol. That's awesome and appreciate it tons! Your build is great to, Love your car, All the quality parts, and work put into it.

Muckman said:
The return is a lot smaller than -6. You have to compare the ID. What some people do is use the original feed line for the new return line and upgrade the feed line. You could do that maybe. If the return line isnt big enough the result will be high fuel pressure because the regulator isn't capable of bypassing enough fuel. I can't say for sure if you could get away with a stock return line or not. You'd have to research if anyone is running stock lines with the Walbro 450. Probably not.

If you need to keep the rear seat then you need to do something similar to what I did. I would look into using the existing banjo configuration but with a larger banjo. Thats the only way you can use a threaded hose end but keep it low.
Click to expand...
Banjo configuration was what I originally looked into, Biggest banjo piece I could find was a -6 an. Don't think I can do banjo with -8 sadly.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
-6AN is still an upgrade over the stock feed line. Or you're going to have start customizing. Either drill and retap that banjo thread or weld a bung to the hat. I vote for the retap. Go with 3/8" or 1/2" NPT you will have a lot of cheap fitting choices.
 

OneFastGSR

Member
Got my stuff back from shop couple days ago, Crank balanced (Spec sheet below), Block is assembled now, Everything torqued to spec, Ring gaps are what I want, .019" upper .021" lower, .0040" p2w, stock cp oil ring gap, All bearing clearences are the specs I want, ACL Race rod bearings .0020" on all 4, Main bearings are ACL Race HX bearings, .0015" on 1,2,4,5 and .0018" on 3. ARP assembly lube on all ARP studs/bolts, Clevite assembly lube used on all bearings/crank, Cylinder walls oiled.

Only got 1 picture of the block as it sits right now, It's alittle to dark for a picture but it is what it is. I'll get a better pic during the day when I can open the door and get sunlight on it.

About to put synchrotech carbon synchro kit in the transmission, New bearings, seals, synchros, springs, etc, Differential ball bearing conversion, and changing ls 4th to gsr 4th. Will have gsr 1,2,3,4 and ls 5. Friend at T1 race dev will be doing the transmission work for me. All i'm missing to assemble rest of my shortblock from what I see now is a o-ring on the oil pump, oil pickup tube, and oil pickup tube gasket. Once I get those i'll assemble it more.

Going to keep it at that for now. I'll be figuring out what all i'll do with the head once I get the rest of the shortblock completed. Trying to stick to 1 thing at a time and not get ahead of myself to make sure it's all done right.


 

OneFastGSR

Member
Got a better picture of the block, Tomorrow going to honda to order a oil pump o-ring I need, and 2 cam seals on the cam gear side(just cause I need them later lol). Once I got the oil pump o-ring I can assemble the rest of the short block (I think I should have everything for the block after that)



 

OneFastGSR

Member
My list of parts on my next order is this

90083-PG1-000 x1 block plug because I want to delete the factory 94 gsr oil cooler

91213-PR3-004 x2 cam seals for cam gear side

91302-PF0-003 x1 oil pump o-ring

19505-P72-010 x1 95+ gsr connecting pipe (Needed to delete my 94 gsr factory oil cooler)

91314-PH7-003 x2 Connecting pipe o-ring gaskets

Golden Eagle Oil Sandwich Plate (Filter Adapter) with 1/8" adapter x1 This will replace my factory oil cooler/sandwich plate. With this I can run my oil pressure gauge and turbo oil feed directly to the sandwich plate. That way my oil feed will get fresh filtered oil, And my oil pressure gauge will get a good accurate reading and will work alot better than a T fitting out the block.

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_88&products_id=301

Also going to get some aluminum paint from the parts store and paint the front and back of the block an aluminum color. I didn't realize how ugly my block was until looking at the picture above. It still has a bit of red on it that wasn't removeable. I'm going to wire brush the block sand it a bit to where it's as good as I can get it. Than degrease it all and paint it aluminum.

Friend at T1 is going to give me a quote monday on getting my transmission done. Going to do a synchrotech carbon rebuild kit, Synchrotech differential ball bearing conversion, replace my LS 4th gear with a GSR 4h gear. That way I have gsr 1,2,3,4 and LS 5. Instead of gsr 1,2,3 and ls 4,5, Than blast or paint the transmission case so it looks new again also.

That's my current plans atm. Any opinions on the oil sandwich plate change? From my research it sounds good to me overall..
 
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