B20b Vtec with Stock Internals. Need Help !

7650

New Member
]hey mate, I recently installed B16a head on B20b bottom, last night i just brought the car home without my headers, sound was annoying and drive was not that good.
Kindly Tell me After My running process ends, how much Performance should i expect from it ? better then B16a i suppose ? and some people says if you rev it high on B20b bottom the crank wont last long, is it true ?
 

Spody02

Name: Cody
well, want kind of ecu are you running? cause if your just running a stock ecu your car is going to run like poop, and put some headers on there
 


Kuchtaboy

Unregistered User
Why? only thing different is there's no 02 sensor so you're in open loop meaning your car probably never went into vtec.

reving high on a B20 block isn't the best thing because the block wasn't made to rev much higher then probably 6800, but do what you want. Different rods would probably help with the reving... not sure if a B18 crank would fit in the B20. actually, I'm pretty sure they are the same crank shafts. Just the rod length is different. someone confirm for me on that tho.
 

7650

New Member
no guys, i have header but they were not fitting into head after my b20b swap. as the bottom is slight bigger then b16a's . i will place the header today then will see it.

@ Campanelli
yes bro my home is not that far away from workshop and will it done with header thing today.

@ racinfeend59
Is header the reason failed the project ?

@ Spody02
i m using stock b16a ECU, Obd0. u mean i should use after-market ECU or something ? As far as i guess Stock Ecu is much better.

@ Kuchtaboy
i did not went for the VTEC bro, as i said before my engine is in running process. i just said i did not have that pleasure in driving back home. i guess its because of headers and the annoying sound it produced :)
 

TypeR?

New Member
yes it will out perform a b16a
keep your shifts under 8k and you will bee fine
 


7650

New Member
@ Type R

Thanks mate. As weight of my car is very less, sometimes i end up my self on rev limiter is it like, OK ?

@ Topic
I give my first run on 1st and 2nd gear, the torque was amazing i felt changes.:)
but then i think sound of my VTEC cross-over has decreased. ? has anyone faced such a thing ?
 

Kuchtaboy

Unregistered User
well, as long as you can still hear the cross over, then you know it's still working. Sound might be different because you're using a completely different bottom end. The whole engine will probably sound different then the B16.

as for stock being the best ECU to use, no... I'd recommend at least osmething aftermarket to get the right tune for what you're running.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
these posts are very hard to understand, but since i'm in the process of building a B20VTEC myself (nowhere near stock, though) I'll try my best to help.

On a STOCK bottom end, I wouldn't rev any higher than 7100rpms or so.
There isn't anything wrong with the stock bottom end, as it is balanced enough to run to around 8000+.
The problem isn't in the crank or the rods, to be honest.
The problem (that makes people worry about high revving B20 motors) are the Rod Bolts, Main Cap bolts (to a lesser extent), Rod Bearings, and Main Cap bearings (CRANK BEARINGS, as i've read some people calling them. They are MAINS)

The bearings aren't really too much of a problem, unless you are revving really high (anything over 8000) with stock rod and main bolts. They will be prone to being spun or warped, which will result in a useless B20 block, which is never fun.

Even if the bolts are torqued to spec, the OEM bolts aren't meant to support the kind of load that high rpms place on them. I haven't seen many BREAK, but I have seen some that were bent and warped due to the added stress. B16 bolts etc. would be a better bet, but if you're rebuilding the bottom end for high performance, go with ARP bolts. Much higher tensile strength, and are just an overall stronger bolt. And considering they are same price, or cheaper than OEM Honda bolts, you'd be crazy NOT to use them. When its time to assemble my motor, there won't be any OEM bolts on the bottom end. They will all be ARP :)

Putting in lighter rods will help take some of the load off of the rod bolts, but if you're going through the trouble of replacing rods, why wouldn't you replace the bolts as well. Especially, since mixing aftermarket rods, with bolts that are meant for an OEM honda part, isn't a good idea.

My setup is pretty hush hush, for the time being. But if you want a GOOD performing B20VTEC, and one that will last for a while (to be just as dependable as a stock Honda motor) you'll definitely have to crack the bottom end open and reinforce it a bit.

Here is a "general" checklist of things to take do when you are building a B20VTEC (which isn't any different than an LS/VTEC.

*Replace all bearings (rod and mains) with BRAND NEW OEM or ACL (ACL makes great bearings)
**When replacing them, make sure all of them are machined to the exact clearances and tolerances. Any RESPECTABLE shop can handle this, if they can't, or seem questionable, do not let them touch your block.

*Replace AT LEAST your Rod bolts with aftermarket ARP bolts (google them, you WON'T be disappointed) Good prices for AMAZING products. THIS WILL BE THE BEST MONEY SPENT.

*Hone the cylinders (this is NOT OPTIONAL, in my opinion)
*Replace piston rings
*Have the bottom end balance checked, or improved to a higher RPM for peace of mind.


THAT IS MINIMAL WORK. If you want it to last, you will need to AT LEAST do those things. Without performing those, the motor isn't "done" and won't handle too much abuse before becoming unstrung.
__________________________________________________
Kuchta,
for the record, B20 crankshafts are the same as LS cranks ;) same part numbers and all. The only difference between a B18A/B18B and a B20(b/z etc.) block is the cylinder bore. Otherwise, they are the same block. :)
 

TypeR?

New Member
Here is a "general" checklist of things to take do when you are building a B20VTEC (which isn't any different than an LS/VTEC.

*Replace all bearings (rod and mains) with BRAND NEW OEM or ACL (ACL makes great bearings)
**When replacing them, make sure all of them are machined to the exact clearances and tolerances. Any RESPECTABLE shop can handle this, if they can't, or seem questionable, do not let them touch your block.

*Replace AT LEAST your Rod bolts with aftermarket ARP bolts (google them, you WON'T be disappointed) Good prices for AMAZING products. THIS WILL BE THE BEST MONEY SPENT.

*Hone the cylinders (this is NOT OPTIONAL, in my opinion)
*Replace piston rings
*Have the bottom end balance checked, or improved to a higher RPM for peace of mind.


THAT IS MINIMAL WORK. If you want it to last, you will need to AT LEAST do those things. Without performing those, the motor isn't "done" and won't handle too much abuse before becoming unstrung.
__________________________________________________
Kuchta,
for the record, B20 crankshafts are the same as LS cranks ;) same part numbers and all. The only difference between a B18A/B18B and a B20(b/z etc.) block is the cylinder bore. Otherwise, they are the same block. :)
this is all good information but unless he has about a thousand dollars to spend at a machine shop to assemble the bottom end, check for clearances, and balance the rotating assembly, he should be fine revving to 7800. ive built enough b20 vtec motors to know from experience.
 

7650

New Member
@ Kuchtaboy
you are right , my engine sound has complete changed.
and i m facing new problems in my new B20b Vtec that is on 6000 rpm its starts missing, and it do not rev more then 6000 rpm and after the Run i get Check light, and the code is #9 ( cyl position ) do you know anythPing like that ? HELP needed.

@ hondagod_666
Thanks mate for all ur help and time on my post. The problem is that where i live its very hard to purchase parts from Ebay and the prices i get are really high so i prefer doing all Stock =) but i'll make sure i dun rev it more then 8k.
i need another favour from you, trying sloving my prob which i m facing right now. =( VTEC is not opening and its giving Check light and code is #9 as i mnentioned above.
 

7650

New Member
@ Topic
one more thing, in Code #9 ( cyl position ) dose that thing dose not let VTEC to take over and gives early fuel cut with missing ?
 

TypeR?

New Member
sounds like you need to replace your distributor(with an oem one of course) and that should take care of your check engine light and the missing, and yes if your check engine light is on vtec will not engage(on a stock ecu). so get a new distributor and have fun:thumbsup:
 

7650

New Member
you mean the stock distributor ? hmmm i guess my distributor was working very fine when i was running it on b16a the thing startd when i switched to B20b bottom. maybe grip of distributor wiring is having probs. lets hope its not distributor or else i'll have to lock up my ride as it hard to find b16 stuff over here.
 
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