Cost of a b18c swap?

Teggy64

Got vtec?
Ok, so I did some research and found several different answers. I'm considering swapping a b18c into my ls. Now obviously I've looked at sites like hmotors and while I'd trust them, their motors cost about 3k. I was thinking that if i find someone selling a swap, i could do leakdown and compression tests before buying and afterward taking the motor apart; cleaning everything and replacing basic things like the timing belt, water pump, gaskets, seals, ect. I have a mechanic for a father, so he'd be assisting in installation and motor disassembly. Assuming the engine it relitivley healthy, what would be a good price for one with an ecu and tranny with say 50-110k?
 
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Kyle

New Member
A longblock tends to be about $1700-2100 without an ECU or Trans. A complete swap is probably around $2700 plus shipping. Plus maintence parts, water/oil pump, timing belt, mounts, wiring harness, and if your trying it emissions legal, you need to change some parts. I'd put about $500 or so aside for those parts to be honest, it all adds up. When I did the math, I realized it was cheaper for me to build a nonVTEC B18B than to swap a stock B18C in. Just got to weight your options and see what route you want to go.
 

Teggy64

Got vtec?
I'm most likley going for a usdm motor obd2. If I don't buy from hmotors, i'm going to start looking around craigslist and honda forums for people selling their motor. I found one on craigslist not too long ago with 120k and stock for $1200. That's the kinda thing i'd likley go look at; make sure nothings leaking and compression's good then rebuild it with some fresh parts. I may be dreaming here, but i was hoping to find an engine and add basic fresh parts for about 2k.
 


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Kyle

New Member
I'm most likley going for a usdm motor obd2. If I don't buy from hmotors, i'm going to start looking around craigslist and honda forums for people selling their motor. I found one on craigslist not too long ago with 120k and stock for $1200. That's the kinda thing i'd likley go look at; make sure nothings leaking and compression's good then rebuild it with some fresh parts. I may be dreaming here, but i was hoping to find an engine and add basic fresh parts for about 2k.
Your going to pay a little more for an OBD2 engine compared to a OBD1. "fresh parts?" Like performance or maintenance? I'd have some cash on the side for any problem that comes up (radiator, o2 sensor, mounts, alternator, dizzy, etc). Craigslist will be your best but, but be warned if you get scammed you'll be in screwed. Sometimes paying extra for a clean motor from HMO is worth it, they are spotless.
 

Teggy64

Got vtec?
Your going to pay a little more for an OBD2 engine compared to a OBD1. "fresh parts?" Like performance or maintenance? I'd have some cash on the side for any problem that comes up (radiator, o2 sensor, mounts, alternator, dizzy, etc). Craigslist will be your best but, but be warned if you get scammed you'll be in screwed. Sometimes paying extra for a clean motor from HMO is worth it, they are spotless.
fresh parts meaning maintenance. The other thing about hmotors is their out of stock of the b18c obd2.
 

Kyle

New Member
Just wait it out, they will have them soon.
 


jrhdominos

New Member
If your ls is OBD-2 just swap the dizzy, alt, etc. to the OBD 1 b18c if you decide to order it. I can personally vouch for HMO..best website to buy from online...I dont do CL anymore..waayyyy to many scammers...only thing I get on CL is blown motors I plan on rebuilding or maybe flipping for proift...HMO ftw. Gotta pay to play in most cases.
 

Death-the-Kid

anta honma ni shinude
A longblock tends to be about $1700-2100 without an ECU or Trans. A complete swap is probably around $2700 plus shipping. Plus maintence parts, water/oil pump, timing belt, mounts, wiring harness, and if your trying it emissions legal, you need to change some parts. I'd put about $500 or so aside for those parts to be honest, it all adds up. When I did the math, I realized it was cheaper for me to build a nonVTEC B18B than to swap a stock B18C in. Just got to weight your options and see what route you want to go.
LSvtec....throw in some rod bolts, head studs. bearings and a p72 head held together with golden eagle kit and save money and make more power across the board maybe? and also not pay $3000 start to finish for 145whp?
 
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Kyle

New Member
LSvtec....throw in some rod bolts, head studs. bearings and a p72 head held together with golden eagle kit and save money and make more power across the board maybe? and also not pay $3000 start to finish for 145whp?
It's not legal. I won't be able to pass emissions with an OBD1 ECU. And from what I've heard, A GSR and ITR ECU make LS/VTEC run like s*** so I couldn't just swap them in. I'd have to buy an OBD1 DC in order to do a LS/VTEC swap.

Edit: Also another reason I don't want to run an OBD1 ecu is that it will remove my immobi. Now granted, if they are going to steal my car they will get it, but I like the peace of mind knowing that it is just one more thing that thieves will have to go through in order to get my car. Sure you can bypass it but I'm counting on the 90% of low level thieves trying to steal my car. If my car was garaged kept, I would be more open to doing a serious build. However, this isn't to say I couldn't or wouldn't change my mind in the future, I would just need to do research and see which is best for me.
 
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Teggy64

Got vtec?
LSvtec....throw in some rod bolts, head studs. bearings and a p72 head held together with golden eagle kit and save money and make more power across the board maybe? and also not pay $3000 start to finish for 145whp?
thanks for the thought, but i have no intrest in ls/vtec. I'd rather have a dependable full swap, than something i have to moniter all the time. Alot less to go wrong with a fresh b18c from hmotors.
 

Death-the-Kid

anta honma ni shinude
thanks for the thought, but i have no intrest in ls/vtec. I'd rather have a dependable full swap, than something i have to moniter all the time. Alot less to go wrong with a fresh b18c from hmotors.
not trying to argue but they are reliable when not built by some little ricer in his garage. i honestly hate that people still believe that. and there is not less to go wrong. you're trusting somebody to sell you a running used motor. vs knowing everything that has been put into a freshly built motor. they have a bad name because people take shortcuts. rod bolts and head studs and they'll last like any other motor. i used to be adamantly against them till i had 5 friends all tuned and built to 200-220whp running for years and get beat on constantly with no issues. I'd get a b18c if i could get one for $1500 or less. otherwise i can't justify spending nearly 3K just for the motor with unknown actual abuse. but it's all preference and your money. i've had 2 gsr's a stock b18b and now currently run lsvtec that will makes power to near 9K rpms. just did 1800 miles in the past 2 weeks on her and no oil burning and pegged the speedo against a gti and srt-4. only damaged i caused was to my rear bumper...:lol:

It's not legal. I won't be able to pass emissions with an OBD1 ECU. And from what I've heard, A GSR and ITR ECU make LS/VTEC run like s*** so I couldn't just swap them in. I'd have to buy an OBD1 DC in order to do a LS/VTEC swap.

Edit: Also another reason I don't want to run an OBD1 ecu is that it will remove my immobi. Now granted, if they are going to steal my car they will get it, but I like the peace of mind knowing that it is just one more thing that thieves will have to go through in order to get my car. Sure you can bypass it but I'm counting on the 90% of low level thieves trying to steal my car. If my car was garaged kept, I would be more open to doing a serious build. However, this isn't to say I couldn't or wouldn't change my mind in the future, I would just need to do research and see which is best for me.
so you're planning on leaving the engine stock since you're concerned about ecu's? and my car has an immobilizer lol just not a factory one :p are you located in cali or something?
 
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