head gasket replacement, no start
- Thread starter JordanB21
- Start date
Muckman
Not a M0derator
Download the FSM, read it, follow it, go away! JK
http://www.spooledupracing.com/download/Manuals/FSM/Honda/
http://www.spooledupracing.com/download/Manuals/FSM/Honda/
JordanB21
New Member
I was able to get it started and it ran okay for a little bit, I let it sit while I listened to the engine, it idled okay, then the idled dropped to normal idle speed and it sounded nice. I then went to rev it lightly and it sounded awful from the engine, began to idle lower than before, so I cut it off. The check engine light came on and yeah. I don't have acodes puller so this is fun.
I'm going to pop the valve cover back off and look it over.
But hey at least it ran
I'm going to pop the valve cover back off and look it over.
But hey at least it ran
Last edited:
JordanB21
New Member
I think Iave a good idea of what It might be, got it started again. The check engine light still came on after clearing it but aside from that at idle it sounds nice. Under the slightest load I can hear clicking from the valve cover. So I guess I didn't do the best job on spacing the valves, going to pop it back open and go through all the cylinders again. Then ill go and get a code reader most likely. If it runs well enough ill drive it to the parts store to find out what the code is.
I can't really make out the 16 degrees timing mark with my timing light but it nearly stalls when the distributor is rotated to the firewall, it runs erratic when towards the front end and purrs when centered so my timing is pretty on point, I'm probably just no good with the light.
Merlins Beard
*Beard not included
The method I've used for tightening the belt is to tighten the tensioner down, don't torque it, then loosen the bolt 1/2-3/4 a turn. Rotate the crank a few times, then check the tension on the belt. If the tension on the belt is roughly the same all around, then torque the pulley down.
JordanB21
New Member
Sooooo the timing is on point guys, good work everybody who chimed it. Plus big props for that link Muckman, I've been looking for a download of that for a while, such a great resource.
I even had the car running long enough to adjust the distributor (the orginal one!, saved 240 dollars!).
Alas, there still remains one more problem.
The car is having a new/different kind of no start issue.
I turn the car to the on position and then third position and I just hear one click (starter soilnoid I believe) and nothing else after that.
I thought maybe the battery, Oriely's load tested and charged it, wasn't the problem.
I replaced the negative battery terminal because it was beat and wasn't fully tightening, wasn't it.
I checked for continuity between the +battery post and starter 0.00ohms.
I checked for continuity between the -battery post and starter and initially it was .2ohms and climbled to .6 ohms after I held it long enough and then rested there. Bad or good on that? I figured that's still good but who knows.
The only way I got the car started after each of these tests was by connecting my jeep and jumper cables to the car. It hesitated for a brief brief moment and then chugged right on and fired. warmed up, sounded pretty good and is capable of revving high without incident.
Now the check engine light is still on, yes.
But some other things to note are that while revving the temperature gauge would dramatically pick up, now I don't believe this is an accurate reading, I think this is a lack of ground somewhere. So anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
as far as grounds, I mentioned the one going to the starter.
the chassis to valve cover is good
the transmission ground is still there and looks good (no I didn't test it)
and the rest of the grounds on this car im unaware of, especially one that deals with the gauge cluster or temp sender.
Small half update: I tried starting it again and no luck without the support of another vehicle via jumper cables.
I then turned the car off, waited one literal second, pressed the clutch in and started it up and it had a slow chug as if it wasn't sure it was going to catch, but did (I remind you that normally there is no chug, just the click of the solenoid).
This second start up was independent of the Jeep ( I removed the jumper cables while it ran).
So I'm clueless at this point. Also while it was running I noticed my issue with the temp gauge wasn't presence on either start up and running engine time. It only picked up with revving to the middle point but never passed.
I even had the car running long enough to adjust the distributor (the orginal one!, saved 240 dollars!).
Alas, there still remains one more problem.
The car is having a new/different kind of no start issue.
I turn the car to the on position and then third position and I just hear one click (starter soilnoid I believe) and nothing else after that.
I thought maybe the battery, Oriely's load tested and charged it, wasn't the problem.
I replaced the negative battery terminal because it was beat and wasn't fully tightening, wasn't it.
I checked for continuity between the +battery post and starter 0.00ohms.
I checked for continuity between the -battery post and starter and initially it was .2ohms and climbled to .6 ohms after I held it long enough and then rested there. Bad or good on that? I figured that's still good but who knows.
The only way I got the car started after each of these tests was by connecting my jeep and jumper cables to the car. It hesitated for a brief brief moment and then chugged right on and fired. warmed up, sounded pretty good and is capable of revving high without incident.
Now the check engine light is still on, yes.
But some other things to note are that while revving the temperature gauge would dramatically pick up, now I don't believe this is an accurate reading, I think this is a lack of ground somewhere. So anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
as far as grounds, I mentioned the one going to the starter.
the chassis to valve cover is good
the transmission ground is still there and looks good (no I didn't test it)
and the rest of the grounds on this car im unaware of, especially one that deals with the gauge cluster or temp sender.
Small half update: I tried starting it again and no luck without the support of another vehicle via jumper cables.
I then turned the car off, waited one literal second, pressed the clutch in and started it up and it had a slow chug as if it wasn't sure it was going to catch, but did (I remind you that normally there is no chug, just the click of the solenoid).
This second start up was independent of the Jeep ( I removed the jumper cables while it ran).
So I'm clueless at this point. Also while it was running I noticed my issue with the temp gauge wasn't presence on either start up and running engine time. It only picked up with revving to the middle point but never passed.
Last edited:
Nick_C78
New Member
If jumper cables get your car started then it is your battery.
As for grounds, well you just did the head. Is the ground on the thermostat housing hooked up? Also, make sure you didn't put the engine temp switch in too far if you removed it. I have seen people thread it in too far which would give random coolant temp readings. That is assuming it isn't just air.
As for grounds, well you just did the head. Is the ground on the thermostat housing hooked up? Also, make sure you didn't put the engine temp switch in too far if you removed it. I have seen people thread it in too far which would give random coolant temp readings. That is assuming it isn't just air.
JordanB21
New Member
Well I had the battery tested at Oreily's and it showed 76% voltage when I brought it in and show good under load and they charged it fine. So I'm not so sure it's the battery.
Like what I meant when I said it started with jumper cables connected was for example say I tried to crank it with cables 15 times, out of the 15 times it might start 1-2 times, if not less. It wasn't constant other than the fact that it happened with jumper cables remained constant.
I'll check the ground. And I actually screwed the sensors all the way back in, so I'll back those out a few rotations, thanks.
I don't believe I do have air in my system anymore since I already burped it while it was running previously. However I'll do it a second time and check out the possibility.
I'll try the hammer trick out, though I might just pull it anyways and get it tested.
Nick_C78
New Member
There is also a relay for the starter under the dash. My car would randomly act up and not start too. I would get 1 click and then nothing. Try bypassing the ignition. Put the key to the on position and connect both spots on the starter together(there is only 2 wire terminals on starter) with a wire or angle a screw driver. it will spark, but should crank. That is the easiest way to test the starter vs ignition.
Oh and all of the sensors do go in all the way except the temperature switch, which is the one that is just a single wire on the left side of the head. Just back it out about 3-4 threads maybe and see what happens. It actually doesn't go in as far as you think. I am not sure why it is even threaded all as much as it is.
Oh and all of the sensors do go in all the way except the temperature switch, which is the one that is just a single wire on the left side of the head. Just back it out about 3-4 threads maybe and see what happens. It actually doesn't go in as far as you think. I am not sure why it is even threaded all as much as it is.
Last edited:
JordanB21
New Member
where is the starter relay? That's essentially what my car is doing, though. Crank to the point it turns on or only crank a time or two?
Easy enough
Good to know. So close, if only It was day light out right now.
also I did want to mention that I replaced the radiator at this time, and so It's possible I was near the thermostat housing, though I doubt it being related. but I removed the fans for this, of course.
Nick_C78
New Member
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/17-audio-security-electrical/219817-95-gsr-wont-start-no-clicks.html
Post 5 has a pic
Switch it with the rear defogger relay and see what happens. Only worry about this if the bypass i mentioned earlier works.
Post 5 has a pic
Switch it with the rear defogger relay and see what happens. Only worry about this if the bypass i mentioned earlier works.
Last edited:
JordanB21
New Member
Focusing on the no start problem; I can still get it started with jumper cables connected
Battery is still good
I had the starter tested and it checked out.
However, I jumped the ignition system and did what Nick (I think it was nick, too lazy to scroll up) said and used a screw driver to connect the positive connector and ground tab on the starter and all I got was click click click and sparks (of course). So though it checked out at oreily's it didn't crank even with jumping the ignition.
Also I went ahead and swapped the relays anyways to test that and it checked out fine. Is it okay to leave these swapped or should I change them back? After swapping them it was a more audible click click click rather than a single click, but this is intermittent as well. Sometimes it's just a single click and sometimes it's multiple clicks, though I think the multiple clicks might be from the relay and not the starter, not sure about that.
Anyways, I feel like it might be the starter solenoid since we tested the starter 10+ times in the machine and each time the extension extended from the starter. Is there a way to test the solenoid?
Battery is still good
I had the starter tested and it checked out.
However, I jumped the ignition system and did what Nick (I think it was nick, too lazy to scroll up) said and used a screw driver to connect the positive connector and ground tab on the starter and all I got was click click click and sparks (of course). So though it checked out at oreily's it didn't crank even with jumping the ignition.
Also I went ahead and swapped the relays anyways to test that and it checked out fine. Is it okay to leave these swapped or should I change them back? After swapping them it was a more audible click click click rather than a single click, but this is intermittent as well. Sometimes it's just a single click and sometimes it's multiple clicks, though I think the multiple clicks might be from the relay and not the starter, not sure about that.
Anyways, I feel like it might be the starter solenoid since we tested the starter 10+ times in the machine and each time the extension extended from the starter. Is there a way to test the solenoid?