head gasket replacement, no start

Nick_C78

New Member
They are the exact same relay, so you can leave them like that. I still have my defogger relay in my starter relay location as well.

The thing with the starter tests is if it is intermittent then it could test fine some times and bad others. solenoids tend to be finicky like that. My advice would be to just bite the bullet and buy another starter, but it would suck if it turns out to do the same thing. If you bypassed the ignition though and it still did nothing but click then its that solenoid.
 

JordanB21

New Member
Nick_C78 said:
They are the exact same relay, so you can leave them like that. I still have my defogger relay in my starter relay location as well.

The thing with the starter tests is if it is intermittent then it could test fine some times and bad others. solenoids tend to be finicky like that. My advice would be to just bite the bullet and buy another starter, but it would suck if it turns out to do the same thing. If you bypassed the ignition though and it still did nothing but click then its that solenoid.
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Great, about the relays, I'll just button that all back up on Monday.

I'm stuck working all day Sunday but what I plan to do before sinking the 167 dollars for a new starter is replace the positive battery terminal.
Already replaced the the negative terminal. But who knows, maybe (preferably) the terminal itself isn't letting enough current through, and then with the jumper cables it is enough for it to catch and start, hypothetically.
The current terminal connector when all the way tighten is only fully secure when it is turned on the terminal, it can move with enough force and become loose, so just another weak point in hue system that should be taken care of anyways. Lol

If No luck after that then I'll buy a new starter.
 

JordanB21

New Member
tamboo said:
dont do it!:lol:

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3043958
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you win. Lol. I went to the parts store because I actually saw a rebuild kit with the contacts pictured in that DIY. The kit cost me 28 dollars without tax and won't get here till Wednesday. But I'll let you guys know how it goes and i'll post pics of what the kit comes with (which isn't much but I've not a clue where I'd begin to find those contact replacements).

If it doesn't fix it then it'll be a new starter. But It'd be so much cooler to be saving 137 dollars over a new one.
 


JordanB21

New Member
It was the battery, everyone, though I had it tested at oreily's. I recommend taking it to a battery shop that can truly test it.
I had rfebuilt the starter and still no click though I had voltage, jumped it off and it still worked. SO I said screw it and took the battery out again and took it to a local shop that tested it by having a constant 12volts running to it and then put it under load and showed that it was wavering and compared to a new battery the voltage did wave, it was consistent at 9volts (which mine wasn't).

So new battery and Im good to drive now.

however I've still got a bogging and lack of power above 3000 rpms at base timing (16 degrees), I advanced it to about 20 degrees with 93 octane to be safe and it had more power (butt dyno) up to about 4000 but still bogs.

I can't truly troubleshoot the bogging yet though because I think I accidentally moved the crank position sensor so it isn't getting a signal ( tbh I left the wrench on the crank while cranking it and I believe it hit it before falling off the bolt). But once I realign the crank speed sensor hopefully that'll fix the issue, if not, I'll come back to you guys.

From what I understand the lack of the sensor 'can' cause a lack of power, and stalls. It nearly stalled once while driving and again the loss of power is obvious since I can't get the car above 70 without trying.


BUT despite all that shit it sounds way meaner, especially by the intake, like my god is it loud around 6k rpms. It puts the boy in me. Now if only I can make the power match the sweet sound.
 


JordanB21

New Member
Found the problem, clogged catalytic converter.

My guess, the leaky valve stems and rings were causing the o2 sensor code which showed the fouling of the cat, till it clogged.
I ran open header and I was able to spin to 6k while moving, which I couldn't before.
 
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