How do I check my distributor coil?

InvaderGIR

New Member
Ok, so yesterday I was driving to the store, and I was shifting from third to fourth when I heard a noise come from the engine bay. After the noise, I gave it throttle and it would rev a little bit but wouldn't accelerate, then when I got to 5-10 mph the car just shut off, and now won't crank back up. When I turn the key to on, I can hear the fuel pump priming, and it turns over, and I can hear it trying to fire up, but still no crank. I've been told by several people, to check the distributor coil, but I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly since I've never done any kind of repair like this before. So how do I do this exactly? Thanks in advance for the help!!!
BTW, I just fixed all top end oil leaks on this damn car before this happened. I'm wondering if maybe that could've caused a malfunction since Honda's love to leak oil. LOL! :x



**Girl Loves Car**
 

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
The simplest way is to remove the distributor and swap in a working one.

You have to open up the distributor cap to access the coil. Either way, they're both quite easy to replace.

Some fixes are as easy as tightening the crimped connections on the distributor harness that connects to the coil. Some have been found loose.
 

InvaderGIR

New Member
Sorry in advance for the lack of knowledge as far as terminology goes, but I took the cap off and there's another cover with a wheel looking thing.... I remove that too correct? If so, how? I don't want to break that wheel thing....lol wow it's been so long since I've worked on cars. Definitely not like riding a bike....


**Girl Loves Car**
 

DCiFound

SEAHAWKS!!
a couple ways to check if its the cap. Start the car, run water on the cap. If car stalls, then replace cap. If not, then it could be the rotor. To remove the rotor, there should be a screw on the shaft of the rotor. if you cant see it, then you will need to crank the car until you see the screw. U would need to put the key in the ignition, and turn it til you hear the car crank but not starting. Each crank will turn the rotor a 1/4 of a turn. 4 cranks makes a full circle. Or, get a wrench and turn the crank pulley clockwise until you see the screw. Clockwise will not loosen the nut ;)

Sorry if you already know this info, just wanting to give detail in case you don't :)
 


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Muckman

Not a M0derator
Its not the coil. The coil doesn't fail in the method that you described.

Take a step back and start at the basics. When the engine started to die was there a check engine light? Get a OBD code scanner and check for any malfunctions the ecu detected, it will save us a lot of time. Next do a compression test on the engine to make sure the tbelt and valves are still holding compression.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
You say you just did the top end gaskets right? Make sure all of your plugs are connected with the wiring harness and make sure all the spark plug wires are snug. It could be as simple as you didn't have something clicked all the way and it just fell off. This is just a guess since you had it all apart not that long ago you say.
 

InvaderGIR

New Member
So, I'm getting spark, fuel pump primes, fuel pressure is good. The gaskets are all good. The oil smells pretty rich, so I'll run compression test tomorrow hopefully. I did notice that a bolt is missing on the bottom of the distributor and I'm not sure if it might have something to do with it or not because I'm not sure if it's been missing or it came out recently. This was someone else's project before my husband bought it for me. And he's deployed now, so yea, any other troubleshooting suggestions? Or ideas on what else it might be?
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
Compression test will tell us a number of things.
Tell me how you tested for spark please.
 

InvaderGIR

New Member
Muckman said:
Not the answer I was looking for but OK I guess it'll do.
Click to expand...
Well I do live in the south, so it's only to be expected to do things in such a manner. And at least I had a derp-tard to do it for me (Ah, sometimes it rocks being a chick). How would you have done it? He only tested the 4th cylinder apparently, and I can't blame him. However, I'm asking how you would've done it so I can check the others, because I'm not about to do what he did lol! Also, I have another possibility. The bolt that I mentioned earlier (the one missing), could it be a possibility that the noise I heard may have been said bolt flying around the engine bay, and possibly knocking off my timing? I had a timing issue after replacing the cam seals, and I do remember it doing something similar when I first took it out to test drive. It didn't ever die, but it didn't accelerate properly, and wouldn't go over 45 MPH..... I still haven't been able to do a compression test since I can't start it and only know one person with proper equipment to test it..... Should I do that first before possibly tinkering with the timing? Learning....I'm learning!!! Lol!
 

InvaderGIR

New Member
Oh and I learned that "wheel thing: is a rotor, and the "cover" I referred to is called a rotor button....At least I'm pretty sure. See...There's hope! Hehe! I'm beginning to think I may just have to suck it up and have my Honda friends gather 'round and go through process of elimination with me. I'm at a loss fellas. Thanks so much for all the helpful suggestions. I'll post again with an update, if I don't just part it out and do a K swap! >.<
 
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