Ls/Vtec problem

tsu878

"Supersonic Vtec fun"
ok so i got my ls vtec all done, droped the motor in and hooked up the wiring harness turned the engine over and all it does is idle(not a clean idle) when i push the gas nothing just sounds like it wants to turn off. anyone got an idea of whats wrong?

ctr piston new rings
gsr head
itr cams/springs
gsr oil/water pump
.043 head gasket
shot peen rods
honed the block
oil convertion line
added knock sensor
new bearings crank/rod
obx intake manny
68mm throtle body
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
tps sensor, map sensor problem. Also what ecu are you running? What injectors also?
 

tsu878

"Supersonic Vtec fun"
thanks guys but it turned out to be my timing. it was off by a couple teeth
 


DeCe4

Torque!
Lucky your CTR piston didn't make out with one of those valves.. would of been a deadly kiss lol




P.S you made a mistake on your build by not throwing on some ARP rod studs :(
 

ewoo

filipinoFTW!
yeah bro i read your first post and it sounded like what happened to my car... just turned out that timing was off by a tooth. but you fixed it before i replied.... :( lol

hope all is well now man
 

dc2teg97

New Member
DeCe4 said:
Lucky your CTR piston didn't make out with one of those valves.. would of been a deadly kiss lol




P.S you made a mistake on your build by not throwing on some ARP rod studs :(
Click to expand...

or some ARP headstuds
 


tsu878

"Supersonic Vtec fun"
dc2teg97 said:
or some ARP headstuds
Click to expand...
i have ARP rod bolts and what i was told is that if i plan on pulling the head of every now and then, then i should get head studs but dont think thats going to happen so on with the tune. Thanks though.
 

tilegend

New Member
tsu878 said:
i was told is that if i plan on pulling the head of every now and then, then i should get head studs
Click to expand...
what you were told is wrong, that is not the only benefit to them. anyways you either buy head studs or new OEM bolts... either which way.
 
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tilegend

New Member
that is true that they are not torque to yield bolts... but its just my personal preference not to re-use bolts on torque critical areas.

"2. Do I need head bolts or studs for my engine?

This depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles, where the master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it’s probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car. For most applications, however, studs are recommended. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading."

its just the nature of the studs that you're not twisting the bolt while torquing it down...
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
There's dowels in the block and head that are there for lining it up.

I also don't care about a quote from ARP, of course they want to sell their products.

ARP bolts are the shit, but it's not wrong to not use them. He's not going to be producing enough cylinder pressure to make it a bad idea to use stock bolts. There's also nothing wrong with re-using bolts if there's nothing wrong with them. Take a pitch gauge to the threads, if they are in spec they'll be fine.
 

tsu878

"Supersonic Vtec fun"
Aussie said:
There's dowels in the block and head that are there for lining it up.

I also don't care about a quote from ARP, of course they want to sell their products.

ARP bolts are the shit, but it's not wrong to not use them. He's not going to be producing enough cylinder pressure to make it a bad idea to use stock bolts. There's also nothing wrong with re-using bolts if there's nothing wrong with them. Take a pitch gauge to the threads, if they are in spec they'll be fine.
Click to expand...
see all that talk about arp head studs atleast your on the same page as me ill stay with the oem bolts. Thanks Aussie!
 
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