New to Integra's and ClubIntegra!

[5speedintegra]

Looked around just now.. but its dark and greasy so I didn't find anything.
But as long as its stamped on there somewhere, i'll find it sooner or later.

Everything from the front clip back looks better then it does in the picture. Aside from the slide indents on the drivers side. Not too bad of a body.

I'm really excited to get the engine yanked lol.

where does your car redline? this could give insight as to which engine you have. its either a b18a or a b18b

 

[Prozon]

The tach says the car redlines at around 7k. Top RPM is 8k.
Thanks for the input.

What are the differences from the B18A and B18B?

 

[5speedintegra]

The tach says the car redlines at around 7k. Top RPM is 8k.
Thanks for the input.

What are the differences from the B18A and B18B?

B18A1

* NON -VTEC
* Found in:
o 1990-1993 Acura Integra usdm "RS/LS/GS" (DA9, DB1)
+ Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
+ Compression: 9.2:1
+ Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
+ Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
+ Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
+ Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
+ Redline: 6500 rpm
+ Rev Limiter: 7200
+ Programmed fuel injection
+ Power: 90-91 Only: 130 bhp (97 kW) @ 6000 rpm & 121 ft·lbf (164 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
+ Power: 92-93 Only: 140 bhp (100 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 126 ft·lbf (171 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
+ Transmission: 90-91: A1,S1, cable
+ Transmission: 92-93: YS1, cable


B18B1

* NON-VTEC
* Found in:
o 1994-2001 Acura Integra "RS/LS/GS/SE" (DC4/DB7)
+ Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
+ Compression: 9.2:1
+ Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
+ Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
+ Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
+ Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
+ Power: 142 hp (106 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 127 ft·lbf (172 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
+ Redline: 7200 rpm
+ Rev Limit: 7200 rpm
+ Transmission: Y80/S80


so im thinking you have a B18B1 from the looks of it.

 

[jznsn2u]

Welcome to Club Integra.

 

[Prozon]

Thanks. On the information.

So is the B18b1 the only direct swap in replacement motor, or are there others?

 

[j13]

You got a good car man.

If I were you all put the plug wires back and try and start it. Put the CV on, charge the battery or whatever it needs. You'll find it in a second of it has a rod knock or bad rings. You'll hear something or see blue smoke.

with the price you got it for you can easily get the engine rebuilt or replaced. You'll have to put atleast $600 in the car to get it running and functioning proper.

 

[Prozon]

That was exactly the number I was hoping for lol!

The timing belt is off, but I charged the battery and everything works.. it just won't start as is.. like I said the crankshaft pulley has a lot of freeplay.. gonna pull the engine tomorrow and see how the bottom end looks. Probably do a rebuild if I can save it.

 

[Prozon]

Well today I managed to get my mud truck out of the shop (and put the forks of the forklift through the radiator while I was at it..) Now the Integra is in the shop! I took the stuff off the front end. Fenders and hood are off. It needs a little more work than I was hoping for, but it'll look great when i'm done!

The car was in fact wrecked. The metal under the drivers side fender is really bad. It's crumpled and falling off. No damage to anything other than the body though. I plan to find another integra to cut the metal out of and weld into my car. Tomorrow I will have all day to work on the car, so hopefully I will get the engine done. I had other things to get done today, so I was limited to just the fenders, hood and radiator today. I know everyone loves pictures, so i'm taking lots. I will get them up later though. Dialup here.. I still haven't got my first set of pictures completely uploaded.

More progress tomorrow! Thanks for reading.

Edit:
The engine is a B18-A1. Sadly, I was hoping it was a B18-B1. Buuuut! Should have engine out tomorrow, and will be able to tell if it's worth a rebuild. If not there's a couple engines local I could pick up.

I was told my engine had crankshaft damage, so would it be cheaper to pick up another engine and fix up?

And would $300 be decent for this stuff. Only interested in B18-A1, but it all comes with it.
Axles, transmission, clutch, dizzy, mounts, ecu, wiring harness..
Plus the B18 with 150k miles.

Is that a good price for the jumble? Any of it worth reselling to make the money back? 150k seems like a lot.
Not sure what is up really, asked if the engine was still in car running..

Anyways, it's late. I'm out. PEACE!

 

[emd513]

i know the local junkyard here has a complete b18a for 250 but has high mileage. if your wanting some more power get the b18b head that is the only difference in the 2 motors is the head the bottom ends are the same. you can find the non vtec easily the vtecs are the hard ones to find good luck on the build

 

[Prozon]

Do I need to change the wiring or ECU if I swap the head to a B18b head?

I think the bottom end is where the damage is at, I THINK all I have left to remove is the engine mounts.. i've never pulled an engine on a manual car so hopefully I don't mess anything up.

So what can be done to the bottom end to increase power without having to upgrade the B18a head? Anything worth while or what? If it comes down to it, I will just rebuild.

 

[Prozon]

The engine is out.. and hell was that one tough.. somebody is gonna have to explain to me what I did wrong. is it even possible to remove these things with the transmission in the car still? There is almost not enough side to side movement to get the engine pulled far enough from the transmission to come out.

There is another engine on the engine stand right now, but as soon as that is off I'll check out the bottom end. The crankshaft pulley wobbles a lot, it stays on with the bolt.. but it has a lot of movement.. I think it's just broken, but i'm not sure how they're supposed to look. Maybe the gear is messed up or something. I have a bunch of pictures to upload which will better demonstrate what i'm trying to say.

And pictures of the serious damage I need to fix. Uploading/Cropping now. Will probably upload in an hour or so.

 

[sportsma1539]

Yea its actually easier just to remove the engine with the tranny. You just have to pull it out with more of the weight on the opposite side of the tranny so the tranny drops below the mount. Or you could just drop the engine and tranny.

 

[Prozon]

Would it be easier to attach the tranny to the engine when I put it back in?

 

[sportsma1539]

Yes sir... Its just so much easier than having to install the transmission with the engine in the car.

 

[Prozon]

Yes sir... Its just so much easier than having to install the transmission with the engine in the car.

Damn! Thanks man.

Here are the pictures!!

The previous owner can't drive very well.

The white front end. Perhaps a good "before" picture.

Damage to the front end. I have a few idea's floating around to fix it. This is why the fender didn't line up right.

Is this a power steering pump? I thought it was an air conditioner pump or something, but it was connected to that oil reservoir there.

The aftermarket coolant overflow. Yes, it is indeed a power steering fluid bottle! I'm sure it is high performance though.

I broke the white thing when I was pulling the motor. It's directly under the dizzy. What is it?

The engine still in the car. (Mostly for my use when reinstalling.)

The engine out of the car.

Broken Timing Cover

Broken crankshaft pulley?

Was this supposed to be one piece.. or what? It looks like a fat washer on the bolt.

The slot on the gear looks broken..

Are these wheels stockers?

The naked Integra! (Front bumper had only TWO screws holding it on.)

Current Questions:

• So is the B18a1 the only direct swap (without replacing wiring/ecu) replacement motor, or are there others?
• Do I need to change the wiring or ECU if I swap the B18a head to a B18b head?
• Are there any upgrades I can do to the bottom end without upgrading the B18a head?

That's all for now kids! Thanks for looking.
And if you havn't noticed, this is more or less a build thread for my Integra.