Oil light flashing at idle
- Thread starter djv1986
- Start date
phatintegra
Banned
When you drain the oil also look for any metal flakes if so drop the pan down and clean it really good and I would change out your oil pump, pick up tube and check the screen .
mirrorimg
Well-Known Member
You say oil squirters, so I assume B18C1. Those mains look MIGHTY loose. When I plastigaged my bearings, I aimed for .0015 pretty much everywhere. I ended up with between .0015 and .002 on most of them though. Pulled the below numbers from another site's picture of a service manual.
Crank bearing clearances:
1, 2, 4, 5: .0009 - .0017 (service limit: .0020)
3: .0012 - .0019 (service limit: .0024)
Rod Bearing clearances:
.0013 - .0020 (service limit: .0024)
Crank bearing clearances:
1, 2, 4, 5: .0009 - .0017 (service limit: .0020)
3: .0012 - .0019 (service limit: .0024)
Rod Bearing clearances:
.0013 - .0020 (service limit: .0024)
djv1986
Member
In within the service limit. And I own the factory service manual and do everything by the book just put new oil pump in it all the squirter a are intact and I gained pressure with the new pump but instead of 4 at idle im at 8psi idle. I didn't assemble the shortblock the local machine shop did. I had a slight amount of shiney in my oil but then again it's brand new engine it's in the break in period still. I'm gonna run a little thicker oil and see if it is still below spec and if so im ditching the shitty acl race bearings and going back to eom
Nick_C78
New Member
Brand of bearings won't change anything...if you switch to oem with the same clearances it'll be the same. The problem is something else. Any more info on the motor? Are all the oil jets in place? There is a small one that goes between the block and the head, and 2 more in the head on the cam cap side.
djv1986
Member
The race bearings are a standard size oem have different sizes to choose to set the clearance where I want it not just run however the bearings came. And yes everything is in the block. And head
Nick_C78
New Member
Right but if ACL gave good clearances it doesn't matter. Also, your clearances would have to be reeeeaaallly loose for it to cause your pressure to be that low. I have used acl, king, clevite, oem...its all the same shit.
If your oil squirts are good, have all our jets, pickup is installed correctly and oil pump is brand new then it should be fine... you are overlooking something or assuming something is good that isn't.
If your oil squirts are good, have all our jets, pickup is installed correctly and oil pump is brand new then it should be fine... you are overlooking something or assuming something is good that isn't.
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
where is your gauge hooked up to?
djv1986
Member
The bearing tolerances were at .0022 mains and .002 rods. They are both beyond the "service" limit as per Hondas spec. The I replace the oil pump last night and gained 1 psi maybe 2 now idles at 7 psi hot instead of 4 and im using my brand new snapon oil pressure gauge at the location of where the oil pressure gauge would go. Im going to yank the pan back off again and check the squirters for leakage hopefully one is stuck open and if so I can replace the valve and call it a day and should be fixed
Nick_C78
New Member
I understand its over the service limit. But two ten thousandths of an inch is not gonna drop you 10+ psi. Also, when we are talking built race motors and such, service limits go out the window. Nothing is wrong with .002. I prefer .0018-.002 anyways. Usually on main 3 I do .002, rest are .0018.
djv1986
Member
Then I prob have a stuck open squirter :/ they are brand new from dealer too