Turbo vs Super - Ideas & Opinions?

[95B18BTurbo]

Yessir that is very true! I have a hybrid TD05 flanged .60trim with a 4" antisurge inlet sitting on my bench waiting to be installed, but the response from the EVO III keeps me happy as hell for some reason. The drawback is that a custom manifold will need to be made, they are harder to come by as of late, and you will definitely need an external setup to control boost creep!

 

[Muckman]

Why custom manifold? Bc of the twin scroll turbine?
What kind of power are you making from 24psi on a 16G?

 

[dc2GS-R]

The EVO 3 16G doesn't have a twin scoll turbine.

TYes! When people cant afford the GT28xx I recommend the 16G (big or small). Ironically outside of the GT28 series there are really NO other modern aftermarket choices for <350hp turbos. The Mitsu TDO5H-16G is the best alternative for a quality small turbo. Being an OEM turbo its far better than the eBay sh!t turbos. The problem is used OEM units are becoming rare pushing the price up. And new genuine OEM units are as much as a GT28 is.

Wow! I apparently haven't looked at the prices on those lately. I bought a brand spanking new MHI EVO III 16G for $500 just a couple years ago. They upwards of $850 now.

Beware of new turbos claiming to be 16Gs off eBay for a really good price.

These are typically easy to spot. They go by the name "EVO III GT" and it's embossed right on the compressor housing. They are not MHI turbos.

 

[Robbdance]

The 16G is an option for me - I have a friend with a RHD Evo II who will be doing some serious upgrades around the same time I'll be putting the turbo setup together, and he said he'd sell me his old turbo for a more than fair price if I wanted to buy it.

Would there be much sacrifice in terms of power if I were to go this route? I believe my friend said that his 16g is good to about 15 psi until it starts blowing hot air.

Are you guys are of any problems with a titanium valvetrain?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muckman]

I dont know the older 16Gs at all. I only know the big 16G from an Evo9 can make over 400hp on 30psi.
Im sure an older Evo2 16G is not as good but I doubt 15psi is a realistic limit.

Sacrifice in comparison to a GT28 series? Minimal. GT series will be more responsive due to its ball bearing CHRA and it has slightly more power potential, especially the GTX wheel.

What a titanium valvetrain? You mean Ti retainers? I have them in my GSR. No problems so far.

 

[Robbdance]

What a titanium valvetrain? You mean Ti retainers? I have them in my GSR. No problems so far.

Interesting. A friend of mine said that if you're not high up in the engine speeds, they require a lot of adjustment. Realistically, will it make a large difference if I went with Ti over another variant? Also, any suggestions on internals?

Just trying to figure out some good quality brands that I should be looking at. I've heard good and bad about Skunk2 products.. Personally, I'm using their Pro Series Plus adjustable upper control arms, but I'm not sure how their engine components will compare to suspension.. Just want to be safe, is all.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muckman]

A lot of adjustment? I dont know what that could possibly mean. I wouldnt put alot of faith in his advice. lol

Difference in brand? of course, quality always varies from company to company. I like Supertech valvetrain parts. Ferrera is excellent but very expensive. Skunk2 is fine too in my opinion. Building up the head isnt as important as the bottom end. You could get away with just valve springs for now.

Are you doing a full build on the bottom end as well?

 

[Robbdance]

Planning on building it all. I have a running engine in the car right now, so the B18 will be fully apart anyway. I just want to do it all once so I don't have to go back to change things later on. Any suggestions for that?

Thanks a million for all your help so far, but the way. Greatly appreciated. Honestly.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muckman]

I need alot more details. Are you sleeving the block? Stock head or VTEC head? Pump gasoline? Whos assembling the engine? Do you have a machine shop that you trust?

 

[Robbdance]

Not sure yet on sleeving the block.. Probably should though considering it's a higher mileage engine. Going to run a B18B1 head. I can easily find a trusted machine shop - my friend works at one, so worst case scenario I could pay him some beers to do some work (he knows what he's doing).

I'll be assembling the engine myself with some help from some buddies who have done it multiple times before. For gas I'll be running pump gas - 91 octane at the bare minimum, and 94 if it's available (Canada has different octane ratings than the US).

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muckman]

Ah I see you are from Niagara, thats not too far from me.

Consider this place over sleeving.
http://www.cylindersupportsystem.com/

Im not sure what US octane CA 91 is equal to.
Im thinking 10:1 compression would be a good place to start.
I would recommend Wiseco pistons.
You can use any rods, Eagles are cheap.

Shop cant hone until you have pistons. Youll want to run .003~.0035" p2w clearance for your power level.
You will want to bore up a size to 81.5mm
Have the shop surface the head and deck a minimal amount. Ask them to record the amount (for accurate compression)
Have your LS crank micropolished and balanced.
You wont know what bearings will work until you get it back. You could start with ACL stds.
New OEM parts - tbelt, tensioner, head gasket, water pump, VTEC oil pump
ARP head studs, reuse oem main bolts

For the head just get full Supertech valvetrain. New guides, seals, springs, retainers and valves.
Have shop install new guides and do a valve job with new valves.

LS heads flow like poop so I would recommend considering a LS/VTEC conversion.
LS cams are also awful so youd at least need to upgrade those or run a VTEC head.

 

[95B18BTurbo]

Muckman is all over it like a fat kid on cupcakes! Those would be my recommendations as well.

As far as the power level at 24psi, I have yet to dyno the car. I self street tuned it and it's been running like a champ for over 11k miles.

I had a tired stock GSR with that same turbo setup on it and it cleared 297whp @ 16psi on a low rating Mustang Dyno before it gave up it's life. The car is way stronger than that now.

 

[Muckman]

Kudos to you for tuning it yourself. You are either really good at tuning or the timing is really conservative and theres a lot of power left on the table. Get that thing on the dyno man, whats wrong with you! I blew up my first two motors teaching myself how to tune lol.

 

[95B18BTurbo]

Kudos to you for tuning it yourself. You are either really good at tuning or the timing is really conservative and theres a lot of power left on the table. Get that thing on the dyno man, whats wrong with you! I blew up my first two motors teaching myself how to tune lol.

That is the 6th motor I have boosted. I had two stock LS motors, a cammed forged piston/rod LS, a stock GSR, a forged piston/rod GSR, and now a sleeved beast I put together. I learned a metric f*** ton over the past 6 or 7 years now. One part was paying close attention to my old tuner, and the second is talking to her sweetly! lol There is for sure more power left on the table, but I've been happy with where the car is at. Luckily I do all my own work!

 

[Muckman]

This is how you do it people. Read a ton online, talk to people who know more than you, try it youself, blow it up, do it again.