What's in progress, yo

[JordanB21]

I ended up not going with a vtec head, which should be fine since I only am aiming for 250-300 horsepower with a Jackson racing super charger (few months).

I found a jdm b20 head on Craigslist, I haven't got the cast number yet, but more than likely it's just a pr75 and not the p8r I'm hoping for.
Anyways, it's coming with full super tech valvetrain, springs, retainers, valves, locks, and seats.
The guy mentioned that the head needs a couple new valve guides because they got messed up in the portjob, probably going to order a full set of brass supertech guides to match.
I also have a set of felpro valve stem seals from my top end kit I bought, these should fit the b20 head, correct? Everywhere I read people explicitly say the heads are exactly the same, but I just wanted to confirm. But it could be coming with the valve stem seals, in which case I might just use those.
But he claims the head has 60k miles on it and the valvetrain has 15k miles, either way it's a good deal.
Here are the pictures







Here are some pictures of the port work.




Whatcha guys think?

 

[JordanB21]

So picked up the valvetrain and the head, all looks good, but missing one keeper (10 dollars or so) and still waiting on the supertech valve guides I ordered. Then off to the machine shop (125 for valve guide replacement and assembly)

P75-5 head "jdm b20z" apparently had only around 60k on it, was included in the deal for 300.


Anything else I should consider or look into at this point?
I'll be using the cams. You can also see the replacement header which should fix my exhaust leak, came with new o2 connector/extension

 

[JordanB21]

So the time is nearing and I just needed clarification on some things before I proceed
I still plan to get compression numbers before I take the head off for replacement.

But I think I've decided to do the head assembly and just to let the machine shop replace the valve guides for me. The mating surfaces are all straight and have been cleaned in excess.

But in order of what I need to do
1. Lightly oil valve stem seals and insert until the click feeling
2. Oil the body of the valve
3. Place a bit of grinding compound around the base and rotate till perfect fit, then wipe off excess compound
4. Oil valve stem and then move it back and forth and up and down to lube the valve guide for even coating.
5. Use a spring compressor tool to insert keepers.
Repeat steps 2-5 another 15 times
The more spun up, close together coils go towards the bottom and the removable retainers as well, of the head.

6. The head now going back to the car, spray copper mating compound on both the block surface and head surface followed by inserting head gasket
7. Then lube with assembly lube the ARP head stud bolts and torque to manufacture specs.
8. Lay rocker arms in place
9. Lube with assembly lube the places on the head that'll be holding the camshafts
10. Place camshafts in place.
11. Adjust rocker arms to spec based off of the thinnest point of the lobes
12. More assembly lube across the body of the camshafts
13.reinsert lubed lower cam cap dowels and torque to spec
14. Tighten on sprockets to torque spec
15. Probably put the spark plugs in about now too
16. Bolt on and torque to spec upper cam caps
17. Valve cover gasket replacement, if needed. Reattach everything else

My head assembly plan sound pretty thorough, again feel free to add useful tips.
Now my questions are more about timing.
Before I even begin I have to set the 1st\4th cylinders to TDC, correct?


Is there any special way to insert the camshafts for timing purposes, being that the sprockets are off and I'm using b20 camshafts over my b18 cams? Would setting the sprockets to the up position before disassembly send noting where the indications are be vital? Should I take note of how the camshafts were positioned in the b18 head before removal? Or is there another trick to this?
EDIT: found out about the woodruff keys (or whatever they're called) which are missing but now I know how I can go about aligning the cams to proper TDC based off the sprockets. I'll just have to use the keys off of my b18 head.

As far as setting timing, I believe I would have to use a timing gun, and I'm suppose to align the mark on the plastic cover with the etched mark on the crankshaft pulley that is to the right of 3 etches when facing the front of the motor, do I have this down? How do I go about aligning it with the gun? Any good tips for the b18?
EDIT: Found out that I adjust the rotor cap either left or right to adjust the timing while using the timing light.

And finally (for now) I set the engine to TDC by rotating the crankshaft (I might use the power steering pump to do this with the spark plugs removed) counter clock wise till the plastic timing cover mark matches with the alone, possibly red, etched mark.
EDIT: Yeah this is right too.

 

[JordanB21]

Compression test results on current head after reringing the motor.
Cylinder1: 121 psi
Cylinder2: 120 psi
Cylinder3: 119 psi
Cylinder4: 150 psi

I'm aware that they should all be within 20 psi of each other but I'm not really sure what this means as far as the condition of the head or why cylinder 4 has such a higher compression.also I guess this means 1-3 cylinders have low compression since these specs should be between 135 to 199. The higher compression on the last cylinder is random nonetheless.

 

[96LSteg]

Did you hold the throttle open while cranking the engine to measure compression?

Did you clock your rings properly?

You need to do a leak down test and figure out where you are losing compression. Your numbers should be way higher than that with a fresh rebuild.

 

[JordanB21]

Did you hold the throttle open while cranking the engine to measure compression?

Did you clock your rings properly?

You need to do a leak down test and figure out where you are losing compression. Your numbers should be way higher than that with a fresh rebuild.

This is prior to me replacing the head, its kind of a bench mark wince in a previous thread we discussed that the issue probably is in the head. from what I recall cylinder 2 had a burnt valve base, scorched exhaust runner, and oil collected on top of the piston.

I'm still waiting for new valve guides I ordered before I assemble and put on the replacement head I got.
This is because the head has two broken valve guides (they tried porting on this side of the head and I guess weren't successful and only broke the two before stopping).
Also I myself didn't clock the rings, a friend who has done it before did this since the bottom end I'm less capable at working with.

I might go ahead and do the leak down test since it'll be a week before I'm able to put the new head on.