Can't pull the head off my b18c1. HELP!!

CH33Z3B4LL3R

New Member
just a follow up. I got the entire motor pulled... piece by piece.
had the head checked, resurfaced and tanked. just had the block tanked. installed new bearings, new rods and usdm itr pistons, after research u went ahead and threw the stock gsr flywheel back in and bought an accel ignition coil, ngk plugs and wires. I have everything put back together and torqued down to specs.

my only problem now is... I can't seem to find an accurate b18c1 99 gsr vac line diagram >_<
any links or images would help!

on a side note once I get it started.. there's a HUGE controversy between easy break in and rough break in specifically for the rings... anybody wanna throw in their $0.02?
 

CH33Z3B4LL3R

New Member
ok so I have the motor put all back together but I can't seem to get the ENTIRE ignition system to bolt back onto the head. the valve cover is on the last thing to do was hook up the ignition system.

now wat I can't get is the timing fork thingy that touches the intake cam... it won't seat all the way in. I have a 0.25" gap

ideas??
 

djv1986

Member
The distributor shaft only goes on the camshaft one way. The notch isn't centered if u look closly. And lightly lube the oring on the distributed before u set it in
 


CH33Z3B4LL3R

New Member
ok so my car starts :)

but now there's I this nasty rattle coming from either inside the head or off to side by the the tbelt. any suggestions?
 

CH33Z3B4LL3R

New Member
R13 said:
hard break in

http://youtu.be/NlOjtbhCCkQ
http://youtu.be/HZxC69gpWo0

Hard break in is what I use, I recomend it :thumbs up:
Click to expand...
How hard?
How far?
how often?
behind my house is a straight away parallel to the highway. it's a good 0.6 mile before any turn outs. I guess I should warm it up. take it out. get the oil going with an easy pass then smash all the gears up and down periodically til what? 200miles??

basically, I want the rings to seat as tho im going to be dropping 1st and 3rd at least once or 5x a day lol
 

CH33Z3B4LL3R

New Member
turned out to be the tensioner.
now I have a p1336 code or cpk sensor. weird it was working just fine before the rebuild, replaced the oil pump and now it's throwing a bad sensor signal lol the connectors look clean for the most part I used AQ electrical cleaner from autozone. let's see what happens
 
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