DC4 First Turbo Build!

bad_biddy

New Member
Well its been awhile since I've updated this thread…. Had some hoops to jump since then and I'm running into one problem that I can't figure out.


Had a problem with the alternator not charging the battery - I removed the alternator and took it to auto zone to have it tested. Failed the first time they tested it and passed the second time they tested it. I decided to just get a new one and call it a day. Got the new alternator in and it was still not charging the battery long story short I had to add some ground and move a different wire. Now its charging at 14.5ish volts.


The problem that I currently have and cannot for the life of me figure out is - overheating issue.

What I have done so far -
1. New Thermostat
2. New Water Pump
3. New coolant tube seal
4. Removed rad and flush with CLR
5. Backflowed upper hose with water to test flow within block/head.
6. Tested thermostat in boiling water
7. Coolant has been replaced with distilled water

So here are the issues - after idling for 25 minutes or so the car starts to overheat past the normal operating temp.I have the heat on hot and running full blast. For some reason for the life of me figure out if there is a coolant issue or not.

Water pump was leaking earlier so I replaced that, Installed a brand new Napa Gates thermostat recently - I did test it in boiling water it slowly opened up. I attempted to run the car idling without the rad cap to bleed any air bubbles the engine may have.

My friend and I felt the radiator before we left last night and the radiator was hot on the top and cold on the bottom - it is a fairly new CXRacing, I just flushed it today and it seems like it flowed good.

Installed the radiator back in the car today and the thermostat - Same issue with the coolant - still overheating.

If anyone has any suggestions on what to do feel free to let me know! Thanks.
 

jbrown97ls

Active Member
Is your down pipe wrapped? I overheat if it's not wrapped on my set up
 


bad_biddy

New Member
I figured out the cooling issue everyone! - had a small coolant hose mismatched. All good as far as getting it to operate correctly now.

Is your down pipe wrapped? I overheat if it's not wrapped on my set up
No it is not - I should do that over the winter!


Ted's Owner Leaky head gasket?
It was leaking - see response at bottom.



A little time has passed now - you are all in for a real treat. I scheduled my first dyno tune session - arrived and I thought everything was going to go smoothly. They got the car strapped down and was going to begin tuning.... tuner got the car up to 4800rpms and they noticed a lot of oil spilling down onto the dyno. The head was more than likely leaking under pressure. I couldn't create enough pressure sitting in my garage before hand to really test this.

After that I pulled the head and had the head re-surfaced and had a valve job done. Used copper spray and bought a new head gasket. Got everything torqued down to spec and got the car back up and running. I scheduled my second dyno session. Arrived at the shop got everything strapped down - tuner was able to get it going a little more - eventually found out I had a hole in my Tial wastage diaphragm - when pulling the car off the dyno we noticed more oil. I am now thinking that the block needed to be decked.

I am not debating on doing some benson sleeves potentially - can't really beat the 1300$ price tag unless people know where to get Golden Eagle sleeves installed for cheaper.

Also I have made a list for the winter to do as well -
bigger fuel pump, different intercooler piping, fix the oil drain line, new wheel bearings, brake pads, brake rotors.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know!
 

bad_biddy

New Member
I took a video of my oil pressure gauge - I can hold the throttle at 3500-4000 rpms and the oil pressure holds and doesn't fluctuate.

While on the dyno the tuner thought the axle popped out letting out fluid onto the dyno yet it was still driveable. I was thinking it's oil from the block. After letting the car sitting it looks like a oil spot on the drivers side which would indicate to me as oil.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
There's not much for us to troubleshoot here without any pics or videos. Where is the leak coming from? Is it identical to the leak from the first dyno session? Aren't you street testing the car before bringing it to the dyno?
 

bad_biddy

New Member
There's not much for us to troubleshoot here without any pics or videos. Where is the leak coming from? Is it identical to the leak from the first dyno session? Aren't you street testing the car before bringing it to the dyno?
Hey Muckman, I have already begun to pull the motor since I should install a LSD. Looking into MFactory setup. I do however think it was coming from the head gasket. I used a oem gasket with copper spray and brand new ARP head studs.

There was one plug on the block that I didn't have the plug for so I was running a bolt but it's not fastened all the way down - could be the cause as well.

Thinking of doing some sleeves - any recommendations? Not looking to break the bank crazy but willing to spend for it if need be.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
If it was leaking from one of the freeze plug locations then that should have been easy to visually identify.

Any of the sleeve companies that have been doing it for awhile are good. I have found the local machine shops aren't able to compete with the price and level of expertise because they rarely do this level of work if ever. I would also suggest that you look into http://www.cylindersupportsystem.com for anything under 500hp goals.
 

HRubss

I'm a gearheAd
X2 on the cylinder support system. I have never experienced them nor turbocharged my car (yet) but they seem very reliable and pretty cheap. $325 for guaranteed 500WHP block is just too hard to beat. Great build though!


Sent from my iPhone 2g
 

bad_biddy

New Member
If it was leaking from one of the freeze plug locations then that should have been easy to visually identify.

Any of the sleeve companies that have been doing it for awhile are good. I have found the local machine shops aren't able to compete with the price and level of expertise because they rarely do this level of work if ever. I would also suggest that you look into http://www.cylindersupportsystem.com for anything under 500hp goals.
It defiantly could have been a freeze plug. I couldn't really tell from underneath the car after having oil splash almost everywhere.

I would consider the cylinder support system but I'm gonna push close to 500hp. I guess some of their reviews people have have pushed the blocks well past that point.

I for sure want to get my block decked - that's the reasoning behind looking for a sleeved block or running sleeves.
 

bad_biddy

New Member
Well I pulled the motor today... I think I know the source of the leak. Upon further examination of the backside of the block - I never plugged the hole for a factory charcoal canister top port. I think under pressure it started to leak from it!
 
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