Help. What is this part called?

Silver2

DB7 Driver
Right side of car, looking in the wheel well from behind the tire. Wheels are turned all the way to the left. A part number would also be helpful. I'm a bit lost because I don't know what this is called. Thanks.

Notice the boot is torn and sparated.
 

Silver2

DB7 Driver
No telling how long it has been like that. There's dirt in it. I'll see what I can do to seal it up. How difficult is replacement?
 


Silver2

DB7 Driver
Found a great teg mechanic in marietta ga and he has the car now. The rack is in great shape so he's going to replace the tie rods and put moog ends on it. Also found my front rotors to be paper thin so they'll get replaced. He's safety checked the whole front end and will replace some more parts with urethane stuff.

In the mean time, I'm driving a Ram p/u 4x4 that's getting 12.2 mpg. What a difference.
 


here&there

In St. Louis, MO
What made you look under your car and see your torn boot?
Were you having steering or vibration issues?

I ask because rubber dust boots tear eventually and will need replaced, but the components that they protect usually don't go bad.
If there were no symptoms and just a torn boot, just replace the boot. You don't need to replace the inner tie rod (as shown in the li, in which you referred).

Now that you have it in the shop...ask for your bad parts. I'd wonder if the mechanic only replaced the boot, if he can't produce the old parts.
Take a photo of those parts and post them.
Someone may be able to tell you if they really needed replaced and it will give you more info, about your mechanic.
 

Silver2

DB7 Driver
here&there said:
What made you look under your car and see your torn boot?
Were you having steering or vibration issues?

I ask because rubber dust boots tear eventually and will need replaced, but the components that they protect usually don't go bad.
If there were no symptoms and just a torn boot, just replace the boot. You don't need to replace the inner tie rod (as shown in the li, in which you referred).

Now that you have it in the shop...ask for your bad parts. I'd wonder if the mechanic only replaced the boot, if he can't produce the old parts.
Take a photo of those parts and post them.
Someone may be able to tell you if they really needed replaced and it will give you more info, about your mechanic.
Click to expand...
I spotted the torn boot when I was changing the transmission fluid. It was torn competely in half with one part pushed one way and the other half pused toward the wheel. There was a lot of dirt in the joint and surely it is the original with 215,000 miles on it. Since I value my butt more than I do the money to put my car in safe condition, I got it repaired so that it will be reliable and last me for many years to come. Already it handles much better but I'm not stopping there.

I consider my Integra to be an investment that should be cared for. I have no plans to let it fall apart and have to be parted out some day. I compared prices and his labor rates are good. HIs skills are good and he is a good businessman who knows Hondas. I gave him to ok to replace the rack and pinion but he said mine was in such good shape that there was no need to replace it. I had to specifically tell him I wanted the best tie rod ends (Moog) even though the cheaper ones would probably last as long as the rest of the car.

I appreciate the advice but I really want these high mileage steering parts replaced. Not only for improved safety and reliability but also for improved handling. I asked him to do a safety inspection and he did, finding a bent control arm (probably left over from one of the previous accidents the car was in) and a bent sway bar support. When all that is replaced, along with the upper and lower ball joints, the alignment shop agreed to realign it at no additional charge due to the amount of business he brings them. Customer service is awesome and he kept me advised every step of the way. Where else can one find this kind of service?

I've always felt the steering was sloppier than it should have been and already I can tell an improvement. Can't wait to get the rest of the work completed. It will include new rear swing arm bushings. I just want a trouble free car and a safe car.

This is a rust free car that was probably garaged all its life. Well worth taking care of. Sadly, I let the original engine get away which will hurt its value as a all matching collector car, but such is life.

People pay many tens of thousands of dollars restoring old pos classic cars but I can restore this teggie to excellent condition for one or two thousand and be very happy.

I'm hoping what I've said here will rub off on some of the younger crowd who only see these cars as something to change and make unoriginal. Already, original and unmolested Integras are getting rarer and rarer. It's just something to consider.
 

rivman05

Member
Well said. My brother, Dad and I do antique/classic car restorations out of pocket. Our 58 Edsel Corsair 4 door hard top we have put probably 12k into it (almost 20 yrs we've had it), My brothers 64 T-Bird - at least 8k (had it for 10 yrs), 78 Eldo Custom Biarittz - 4k into it, 60 Edsel - 4k at present (newest addition). I got my teg as a one owner unmolested car. I like the car, miss my 72 Riviera and 95 Impreza but this is the most economical of anything I've had. Ill keep the car looking stock, but thats about it.
 

osiris19

Active Member
here&there said:
What made you look under your car and see your torn boot?
Were you having steering or vibration issues?

I ask because rubber dust boots tear eventually and will need replaced, but the components that they protect usually don't go bad.
If there were no symptoms and just a torn boot, just replace the boot. You don't need to replace the inner tie rod (as shown in the li, in which you referred).

Now that you have it in the shop...ask for your bad parts. I'd wonder if the mechanic only replaced the boot, if he can't produce the old parts.
Take a photo of those parts and post them.
Someone may be able to tell you if they really needed replaced and it will give you more info, about your mechanic.
Click to expand...
Torn boots can cause issues. Dirt getting onto the grease will eventually work it's way to the joint and make it hard to work. Also, if water and moisture comes in contact with the grease, it can dry out and then you're left with an unlubricated joint. You should always check the actual joint for play if the boot is torn.
 
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