How-To/DIY: Install A TDM Tri-Y 4-2-1 Performance Header & Omnipower 3-pc Testpipe

[scraping_DB]

In this How-To/DIY guide, I will show you a visual presentation of “How to install an aftermarket TDM Tri-Y 4-2-1 performance header & Omnipower 3-piece adjustable test pipe on a Acura Integra B-Series motor. In this particular How-To/DIY, the performance header was installed on a stock B18B1 LS motor with a Greddy SP1 cat-back exhaust system. Keep in mind, this performance header is meant for track usage so the piping is a lot longer than the OEM header. The test pipe is also track use only because it removes the catalytic converter altogether. So check your state’s regulation on these performance modifications because these are definitely not legal in California.

Okay let’s begin!

Disclaimer

All the How-To/DIY guides present on this website are for information-purposes only. I am not a professional and am not responsible for injury to you, your vehicle, or anyone/thing else if you choose to follow any of the How-To/DIY guides.

First thing first; SAFETY FIRST! Have the car properly lifted and supported with jack stands & scissor jacks

Here is the performance exhaust setup I acquired to match up with my discontinued Greddy SP1 cat-back exhaust system. You can see how the parts can be parted out into separate, smaller pieces. The header was indeed damaged on the bottom so it has no problem slipping on to become one piece but because it cannot be bolted together, there will be an exhaust leak.

Step 1: Remove the oil dipstick, the three 12mm bolts off the heat shield and one 14mm bolt on the bottom.

Step 2: With the heat shield & oil dip stick removed, loosen-only the nine 12mm bolts on the header. Start with the outer locking nuts then inward.

Step 3: Remove the splash guard.

Step 4: Remove two 12mm exhaust spring-loaded bolts from the header to catalytic converter. You will need a 12mm wrench to hold the bolt in place while you un-torque the other side with a ratchet.

Step 5: Unplug the Primary Oxygen (O2) sensor off the header. Usually you can unplug it from the top of the engine bay, right under the intake manifold. I forgot to record this part but unplug the Secondary O2 sensor off the catalytic converter.

Step 6: Remove all nine 12mm bolts from the header, pull outward and drop the header downward. Drag the header out.

 

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Step 7: Swap over the O2 sensor from the stock OEM header to the aftermarket performance header. I used a 7/8” wrench a few taps from a mallet to un-torque the O2 sensor out. Do the same for the test pipe.

Step 8: Drag the new header in and align with the studs off the cylinder head. Hand tighten all nine 12mm bolts but leave some a bit loose to give some play or movement to adjust when installing the test pipe.

Step 9: Install the test pipe. This part can be a bit tricky but with some adjustment and pushing the exhaust B-piping back, the test pipe can surely be bolted together with the performance header. I recommend adding the bolts that you can align at first and hand tighten only until all the bolts are on.

Step 10: Now tighten all nine 12mm bolts/nuts on the header. Tighten the bolts inward than outward, torquing the lock-nuts last. Finished! You can see here the deep scrapes of the header and a very tight clearance with the Carbing front lower tie bar.

Optional How-To/DIY step: How to polish your header to shine a copper finish.
So I have had some members off of Integra forums ask me why and how my header had a copper finish. I simply polished my header with them off the car, installed it and ran the car like I normally would, that is it! Due to the extreme head the header reaches, the copper finish will be all that’s left. Now I have had success with this How-To/DIY with two aftermarket headers, the TDM Tri-Y & Greddy 4-2-1 headers.

Step 1: Wetsand the header with 800 grit sandpaper, then again with 1500 grit sandpaper.
Step 2: Dry the header and polish with a metal rubbing compound like Mother’ Polish Compound.
Step 3: Re-install the header, drive for 20 minutes and pop your hood.
Step 4: Finished! If done right, then your header should look copper now. You can see the immediate results after I polished my TDM Tri-Y 4-2-1 header after driving 20 minutes here:

 

[Aussie]

Thanks, looks good. Just make sure if you're gonna sand it, the header is made of some stainless or chromoly. If you start sanding a ceramic coated or mild steel header you're gonna have a bad day.

One question though: you said that's a TDM header but it looks like it has a DC Sports plate welded on; did they just cut and weld onto the DC Sports primaries?

 

[Samurai_Blue]

lol probably.

DC doesnt make a header that separates there. Thats the Hytech style stuff.

Is that a 2.5" collector?

 

[Aussie]

I mean the tig welds on the secondaries and where it's connected to the DC look great from the outside. No telling what's going on internally but it can't be any worse than the DC was.

Except for those major dents at the 90* I would def get those fixed, they're going to mess up performance and those two cylinders.

 

[scraping_DB]

Thanks, looks good. Just make sure if you're gonna sand it, the header is made of some stainless or chromoly. If you start sanding a ceramic coated or mild steel header you're gonna have a bad day.

One question though: you said that's a TDM header but it looks like it has a DC Sports plate welded on; did they just cut and weld onto the DC Sports primaries?

Good point! I forget about the ceramic header that are paste-white, lacking a shine.

Yeah just the plates were welded on to pass inspection if I were to have to deal with it. :roll:

lol probably.

DC doesnt make a header that separates there. Thats the Hytech style stuff.

Is that a 2.5" collector?

I'm pretty sure the collector is 2.5" Didn't measure it when I sold the header awhile back.

I mean the tig welds on the secondaries and where it's connected to the DC look great from the outside. No telling what's going on internally but it can't be any worse than the DC was.

Except for those major dents at the 90* I would def get those fixed, they're going to mess up performance and those two cylinders.

It indeed hinder performance due to the exhaust leak form the dents but I came up on a deal for the header and test pipe. I only rocked it for about a month before switching to a CARB EO Legal setup.

I was driving slammed so I was already paranoid about being pulled over. The welded DC plates were just a inspection-safe thing. 8)