New user, few Q's on some problems

Aedylon

New Member
Hiya. I've been lurking for a bit, looking at the occasional topic, but figured I'd finally drop a line.

I have a 1992 Acura Integra GS hatchback/coupe, DA9 B18A1 with a manual 5-speed YS1 transmission. Pretty much stock and running great, aside from a leaking exhaust and some electrical issues. I purchased it at 151115 miles for a little over 2 grand and am absolutely in love with it, but I do need some pointers because I really have no idea about a lot of things when it comes to cars.

I have a background with early 80's Japanese motorcycles, specifically the Yamaha XS1100SG Special, the XV750H Virago and the XS400J Maxim, and the Honda CB175K5. I know from my experience with them a bit about what I'm looking for in engine breakdowns, but it seems as though exhaust systems mount and dismount very, very differently on cars than on bikes.

I'm wanting to replace the exhaust system, hopefully just from the catalytic converter on back. I'm hoping anyone has any advice on a specific brand, part number and type for ease of installation in a garage without a welder, one that doesn't make a raunchy, flatulent sound (Which it apparently did at one point before the guy I bought it from did a bit of minimal exhaust work.) but hopefully a more stock sound, one that doesn't really so much provide better performance as it does just maximizes efficiency with enough backpressure for good power without conpromising the factory fuel economy and finally, the most important, that it won't break the bank.

I've got a dealer service manual as well, but actual direct advice is always appreciated. I love this car and really don't have a lot of interest in tuning or performance at the moment (Kind of on a budget), but I am intrigued by some of the ideas I've heard on this and other forums (VTEC cylinder head from the B17A1mounted onto the B18A1, I'm wondering what kind of ECU work would have to be done with that as well?) and have an interest in possibly taking myself to a track and learning actual racing, but for now, I just want it to get back the power that I can just feel is lacking, get back my fuel economy and finally just get rid of the horrific sound, all caused by some moron's deranged idea of intelligence when he got his hands on this poor car's exhaust.

Also, when the door is open and the car is on, there are no dinging sounds, and the dome light does not come on. It does when switched on, and the driver door also does not lock when the door is open. Also, although I can probably fix it by taking apart the dash, the lights behind the climate control buttons do not function.

Power antenna motor also doesn't work, I can hear the thing grinding and not deploying. I guess that needs replacing. And while I'm on that subject, what exactly are the dimensions of the stock Acura speakers?

Thanks for whatever info any of you can provide.
 

sexystover

New Member
ill list what i know

-my climate control lights also dont work, so i dont know if thats common

-the dinger may be disabled or its just a bad door switch (they get rusty sometimes like mine)

-the driver door should not lock when its open (factory thing) so thats not broken. only way to lock it is by pulling the inner door handle out slightly and locking it manually with ur finger at the same time

-and for exhaust look at the greddy sp2. its the one i want because it doesnt sound like a fart cannon
 

gotgohan

Apprentice Mechanic
ill list what i know

-my climate control lights also dont work, so i dont know if thats common

-the dinger may be disabled or its just a bad door switch (they get rusty sometimes like mine)

-the driver door should not lock when its open (factory thing) so thats not broken. only way to lock it is by pulling the inner door handle out slightly and locking it manually with ur finger at the same time

-and for exhaust look at the greddy sp2. its the one i want because it doesnt sound like a fart cannon
You can replace the lights yourself I did, but I really didn't care I just had entire dash pulled out so I so whatever.

Why do you need a dinger? I would love not to have a dinger

Are you saying the door locks without holding the handle or with holding the handle, because you have to hold the handle to lock your doors, its a precaution honda has to prevent lockage of keys in car hah
 

Aedylon

New Member
Cool, thanks for the info on the GReddy exhaust. I just found one at RacingWorks.com for somewhere in the neighborhood of $570. I'd prefer straight OEM or even NOS (New Old Stock, something I ran across with the motorcycles. Just parts made with molds by companies other than their original manufacturers), but as long as this doesn't sound like a bunch of canned ass grenades, I'm happy.

I found out that the plastic L-shaped pressure switch in my door is the problem with the door lights. It's sagging down a bit, and I'm going to have to find a way to make it not so that the dome light lights up. It seems to be a direct electrical connection, as opposed to what I'm guessing is a digital one on most modern cars. The dinger doesn't come on, but besides being a warning to my dumb ass that I left my lights on, I'm not too terribly concerned about it.

And I haven't tried the inner door-handle trick with locking the door. If it's Honda's way of (again with my self-depreciation) making it harder for me to be an idiot, I'm okay with that. It's better than shelling out $40 for some moron to break into my car and still charge me if he can't.

Again, thanks for the info. I'll be pinching pennies for a bit, I guess, but it's worth it. I love the car.
 


sexystover

New Member
where are you located?? i may be selling my NOS exhaust. its supposed to be a stock replacement for a oem honda exhaust and it looks like it its just a little louder and deeper. i just want to go with something louder
 

Aedylon

New Member
I'm in northwest Arkansas, unfortunately. I don't have any money to spend at the moment. What would the installation entail, though? Just a few nuts and bolts, or actual welding and other such stuff that I can't do? And also, what kind of condition is the system in? I don't give a damn about oxidation blueing, I just don't want any more irritating leaks.
 

rockadilla

thats right.
:welcome: I'm pretty sure the exhaust is all bolt-on
 


sexystover

New Member
yea exhaust is all bolt on but i couldnt ship it since its all welded together unlike the stock exhaust which is bolted together from 2 or 3 pieces
 

Aedylon

New Member
Thanks for all the info. Probably in a month and a half to two months, I'll have the SP2. If it's all bolt-on and whatnot, I won't have a problem.

I also had a question for curiosity's sake. Many moons ago, I heard about mounting the VTEC cylinder head from a B17A1 from the first GS-R's to the non-VTEC B18A1 that I've currently got in my GS. Are there already any topics on this? I'm not really planning on doing this anytime soon, if ever, but it's a fascinating idea that I'd be interested in reading about. I can imagine the computer reprogramming alone is probably somewhat extensive, either by heavily modifying the ECU for the LS/GS or recalibrating the ECU for the GS-R's.
 

sexystover

New Member
Thanks for all the info. Probably in a month and a half to two months, I'll have the SP2. If it's all bolt-on and whatnot, I won't have a problem.

I also had a question for curiosity's sake. Many moons ago, I heard about mounting the VTEC cylinder head from a B17A1 from the first GS-R's to the non-VTEC B18A1 that I've currently got in my GS. Are there already any topics on this? I'm not really planning on doing this anytime soon, if ever, but it's a fascinating idea that I'd be interested in reading about. I can imagine the computer reprogramming alone is probably somewhat extensive, either by heavily modifying the ECU for the LS/GS or recalibrating the ECU for the GS-R's.
just google search b17 head on b18 or ls/vtec and you will get tons of results
 

Mildsquare

From the bay to LV
If you're going after market get the RSR exmag. I have the Greddy sp2 it's a direct bolt on and uses all the original mounting spots, If I didn't get the sp2 i would have gotten the RSR is a little quieter and sounds better imo.
to get the dome light to work just unscrew the door switch it's held in by 1 Philips screw, un plug the wire that's attached to it and have at it with either a wire brush/sandpaper...ect to get all that rust off, it's really easy. I did it to my car last week and every thing works perfectly, no door dinger though.
 
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