Putting in a "Bumping" System

StockErrything

New Member
So all my speakers are blown out, expect for one. I have no idea really how to do electrical stuff. When i bought the car though it must of had and amp and some subs in the back because there is wiring, going to the back and it's set up to the battery. I just need suggestions, on speakers to buy. Also i want to buy a Aftermarket CD player, If i get one do i need to buy extra stuff to make it fit or to make it connect.

I know i asked for allot of help :/
 

dlo253

Active Member
Go browse on crutchfield.com
All depends on how loud you wanna go really.
Me myself, am a fan of the Alpine type s, and r.
Can't go wrong with polk or infinity either.
As for CD players, depends on if you want to be able to run subs and stuff, or if you want USB capability...Lots of decent choices for under $200.
 

StockErrything

New Member
Thanks !! I looked at that website and it's really nice and easy. I think i'm just going to buy a 80 dollar Pioneer Player, So in the near future i can put some subs in. But for now i'm just going to buy some tweeters for the front and back
 

TheCrimsonStar

New Member
StockErrything said:
Thanks !! I looked at that website and it's really nice and easy. I think i'm just going to buy a 80 dollar Pioneer Player, So in the near future i can put some subs in. But for now i'm just going to buy some tweeters for the front and back
Click to expand...
I wouldn't do that. Go a little more expensive because you'll want a separate subwoofer control from your speaker's bass for when you do get subs. Cheaper head units combine these into a single "bass" setting. You can get a pioneer player for $100 that has separate settings. Bought it for my gf and the backlight changes colors too lol.

Reason you want separate bass and sub controls is so you don't blow your speakers if you want loud volume and loud bass. That way you really wanna thump you can turn down the bass on the speakers, turn up the bass on the sub and crank it. I blew all four speaker on my first system due to just cranking the bass and volume up lol

Here's the exact one I got my gf. Has USB and aux inputs too:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1303400UB/Pioneer-DEH-3400UB.html?tp=5684&nvpair=FFBrand|Pioneer

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 


Last edited:

Trix

New Member
its all about what you want to spend, me personally i spent 300 on my cd player for my car, and another 600+ for my subs, and then another 800 for the amp, the all the 0 gauge wiring, its all a piece of cake if you no what you are buying and how to wire it, look on youtube for different brands and see how the bump, but also need to upgrade the wires under your hood to help with the power draw, so you lights dont dim should do the big 3

1. bigger ground wire for the battery
2.bigger wire for grounding your engine
3.bigger wire from your alt to your positive battery terminal
and this helps alot
 

dlo253

Active Member
Yeah you definitely want a dedicated sub out on your deck. And upgrading ''the big 3'' helps quite a bit like he said^
 

StockErrything

New Member
Hey thanks guys ! I will probably order that Pioneer player, because the setting does sound better. Yesterday i bought 2 12" Fosgate punches with a box. Haha it barely fits in my hatch. Now i just need to find an amp. I think since they are older punches that i would at least need a 500 watt one, but would a 1000 watt do better. I'm new to this so i might be wrong
 


Trix

New Member
get a 500 watt the 1000 would power it to much and ruin them, if they are th p3s u can use the 1000
 

Ganyon

Active Member
I would get the 1000 watt. If it's too much you can always keep it turned down. My 1k watt Kenwood only does a constant of 500 watts bridged. Just look at the rms ratings on the amp and see what they can do.
 

TheCrimsonStar

New Member
Ganyon said:
I would get the 1000 watt. If it's too much you can always keep it turned down. My 1k watt Kenwood only does a constant of 500 watts bridged. Just look at the rms ratings on the amp and see what they can do.
Click to expand...
This. Just because it says 1000w does NOT mean that's RMS. That's peak power. If it's bridgeable it probably puts out around 500-600rms when bridged, depending on the brand. I have a Sony 1000W bridged hooked up to a single pioneer premier champion series 12". Dear God that thing can punch. That premier sub can handle 3500W max and I traded my 15" MA audio 800W max for it lol

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

dmcastillo86

New Member
As for a headunit i prefer Alpine. Highs i like Infinity. For subs there are alot of great choices. Right now i have a 12' L7 hooked up to a 350 kicker amp bridged and that things hits very hard. Even with that amp turned all the way still sounds great. Also like JL audio,Alpine Type S/R are really good too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top