Wet and dry compression test results

[bkirshr]

Hey guys,

So originally I had decided to do a compression test just for the heck of it. I had never checked the overall health of my engine (40k miles), and I wanted to see where I was at in terms of compression. Obviously the nominal pressure is 199psi (B18B1), and the minimum is 135psi. Onto the results..

Dry compression test:
1 2 3 4
145 115 120 135

Clearly this is not good. Per the DIY I followed from team-integra, it mentioned a "wet" test, in whichyou add a small amount of oil in each cylinder to help create a seal on the piston rings. So if the compression results are the same, you are losing all the pressure through the valves, where as if the results are higher, it means that the piston rings are becoming worn. I was hoping the results were the same so I knew it was just a valve job and I would do it myself. Results of the wet test..

Wet compression test:
1 2 3 4
165 155 150 160

This is where I need your guys help.
What are my next steps?
Does this mean my rings are bad/should i get them replaced/how much would that run?
Would a leak down test help me find anything out more than I already know?

I'm just kind of stuck at the moment, and I know you guys have been such a great help in the past. Please share thoughts, comments, and suggestions if you have any. I planned on getting a new car after I graduate college in the spring, and this may end up speeding that process up a little bit depending on what the issue is.

 

[Muckman]

First lets examine your testing procedure:
Engine fully warmed up?
throttle wide open
5 cranks?
Did you repeat the test to see if the results were consistent?

 

[bkirshr]

First lets examine your testing procedure:
Engine fully warmed up? Yes
throttle wide open Yes
5 cranks? Usually 7-12. I had the person in the drivers seat keep cranking until the needle stopped moving
Did you repeat the test to see if the results were consistent? I did not

Responded inside quote ^

 

[Muckman]

Well thats too bad. The numbers are low and we cant blame it on the test conditions. You can do a leak down for a "second opinion" but it wont tell you anymore facts about the situation.

Replacing the piston rings is no simple task. The problem one part snowballs into a full engine rebuild because it doesn't make sense to place just the rings and not the bearings or the oil pump, water pump, etc etc.

Personally I would either look for a new swap motor or live with it until it dies or you sell the car.

 

[zack11122]

If you do look into another motor. Most stores will do a compression test for you. Or if you get one off Craigslist be sure to do one there before you pay.

 

[HRubss]

Good thing about b18b1 is that they're cheap :lol:

 

[Nick_C78]

Buying another ls swap will cost less than rebuilding. Stick to importers though. Don't buy from some random person on craiglist.

Personally, I would save a little here and there and drive it until it dies. By that point you can swap in a gsr motor cause it should last a good while if you keep the oil levels up.

 

[bkirshr]

Thanks for the help guys, I did a quick 10 minute search at work for motors locally, I found that B18B's come for about $600-800, and complete 5 speed swaps with a motor are in the $1500 range. I think it would be the perfect opportunity to swap to 5 speed. I think I'd have a homie hookup on swapping it to save some money on labor.

I guess my options are (unless y'all can think of something else):

Sell the teg, pick up a cheaper car for winter, upgrade next summer after I graduate and start working
Swap the motor and/or trans (probably more likley to keep it longer with a 5 speed)

 

[HRubss]

I'd do what Nick says. Let the B18b1 die and save up for a nice B18c1

 

[Nick_C78]

You are over reacting. Just maintain it and drive it till it dies. By that time you'll have enough for a better swap. If it runs fine then just drive it. Its just going to die a slow dealth and consume more and more oil. When the oil consumtion gets too high, swap it.

 

[Accel.speed]

You are over reacting. Just maintain it and drive it till it dies. By that time you'll have enough for a better swap. If it runs fine then just drive it. Its just going to die a slow dealth and consume more and more oil. When the oil consumtion gets too high, swap it.

This^^

I won't stop driving mine until I make 200k miles. Then the goal becomes 250k and so on :mrgreen: I do put an extra quart or so in about once every two months. Yours aint that bad.

Why not just run it until it dies and buy a sportsbike for speed?

 

[bkirshr]

You are over reacting. Just maintain it and drive it till it dies. By that time you'll have enough for a better swap. If it runs fine then just drive it. Its just going to die a slow death and consume more and more oil. When the oil consumption gets too high, swap it.

That's the weird part. I've never had to add oil between oil changes.

EDIT: check that. I did have to add like a half quart after my last oil change. But I just blamed that on not having a full 5-quart jug when I filled it. I just buy the 5 quart bottles and save whatever is left over after each time, so eventually I save enough for a free oil change.

Why not just run it until it dies and buy a sportsbike for speed?

I'd love a bike, but I would never ride it (maybe if I ever moved out of the city). I've learned to not have any faith in other drivers.


On a different note, I've been having battery issues lately, got it tested at autozone (it failed immediately) and had to replace it. Could a bad battery play into the low numbers? like if it wasn't cranking as hard as it should have been?

 

[Nick_C78]

Yes. If its a slow crank it will have shitty numbers. But it sounds like it had enough juice to do all your tests so I'm guessing that wasn't the case.

 

[Muckman]

Nick is right. Low voltage will decrease cranking rpm but it would be extra slow by #4 which is not the case. If you want throw the battery charger on it and retest.

 

[bkirshr]

Yes. If its a slow crank it will have s***ty numbers. But it sounds like it had enough juice to do all your tests so I'm guessing that wasn't the case.

Nick is right. Low voltage will decrease cranking rpm but it would be extra slow by #4 which is not the case. If you want throw the battery charger on it and retest.

Interesting. Unfortunately I took the compression tester at the same time I got my new battery, so next time I'm there I might rent it again, but for now I'll probably just ride it out and start looking a little harder for maybe a new car.