inline4four said:
nitrous is not bad baldy. its just liquid boost. god I hate it when misinformed people say nitrous is bad. itrain get a wet kit, a fuel pump, and stainless valves and you will be fine using a 75 shot. I speak from experience on this one.
inline4four said:
boost is bad in long term use too though. seriously though if you want your car to run forever then dont mod it period. any kind of high performance mod will wear a motor down faster than normal.
Thank you inline4four.
It's not nitrous that's bad for their engine. It's dumb people that's bad (not saying anyone here is). So Mad Max tries to jet a 150 shot through his stock D15 and blows it up, then gets mad and blames the nitrous when he hasn't taken the time to upgrade the fuel pump, retard timing, build the internals and monitor engine operating parameters. Not to mention being realistic about how much N20 you're USING as opposed to how much WANT. 150 shot on say a D15, even built, is stretching it.
WERD, if you want your engine to run forever don't mod your car. Modern nitrous injection is a great way to go fast (for cheap) and pretty darn safe. And provided you use some common sense, won't take away from the life of youre engine any more than that hot turbo kit you just put on. Just ask your musclecar friends (or was that fiend?), most of them prefer nitrous over any other power adder.
Now my take on it, get the wet kit. Yes, that is where the "wet" comes from--from the injection of fuel as well. The dry kit only injects nitrous and relies on the engine management or user to provide extra fuel. They all have their ups and downs. The dry system, possibly more than any other is it's simplicity to hook up. While the wet system is safer than the dry (not much harder to hook up if you ask me) and easier to hook up than a direct port. The safest route would be direct port, although I do not believe direct port jets go as low as a 50 shot.
A single nozzle wet kit injects both nitrous and fuel just upstream of the IM, but since the IM was never made to distribute a liquid (i.e. fuel). Plus the nitrous, once out of the hoses becomes a gas, followins slightly different flow characteristics, so proper nitrous and fuel distribution may not be optimized. The end result: some cylinders may not get enough fuel and others, too much--you're not making the maximum use of all the nitrous and some cylinders will be more prone to detonation. Direct port, on the other hand, if you're using a 4-banger (duh?) has four separate nozzles dedicated to injecting both fuel and nitrous into one of the four IM runners. The end result is better control over fuel/nitrous distribution, safer operation and more power to name a few. The downside is that you have to drill holes into your IM. Something NOS has come up with to fix this are the new NOSzles, which slip under the fuel injectors and injects nitrous and fuel (from it's own supply still, of course) when activated. While not affecting fuel injector operation in any way. I think there still may be a possible problem, however, since the NOSzles slip under the injectors may pose a clearance issue and possibly disruption of fuel atomization of the injectors. Just a thought and probably more than you really wanted to know about direct port.
Yah, go with a wet fogger system--it's the safer of the two (dry or wet). You may (or may not) need an ignition retard device (you might get away w/o one if you stick to a small dose of nitrous <55). Also, you should really consider some toys to monitor air/fuel ratio, a FPR and a knock sensor. Since nitrous likes to produce the most power right before detonation. As you lean out the A/F ratios (from a rich state), you'll see more and more power gains w/o changing jets, until....BOOM. :twisted: So just like every other mod, it takes tuning to maximize the fun and remember, just like every other mod, improper installation and tuning will take away from the life of your engine. So take the time to do it RIGHT and you'll be grinning from ear to ear. *Pardon the essay* PEACE OUT, YO!