Worn Rings+burning oil

[JordanB21]

The point of my post was to tell you not to waste money rebuilding your head if you plan on going vtec... You dont have to tap the block btw. You can use sandwich plate or oil pressure switch port. I know you may not have the experience, but if oil was on top of your piston, that means it came from above. Also vtec gets better mpg cause the head flows more efficiently.

Problems are discussed mostly. You didn't hone or change main bearing. You also didn't change thrust washers, check clearances, see if cylinders are out of round, check deck surfaces, oil pump. I hope he torqued properly. Did he use assembly lube? There is a lot that goes in to building a motor. Doing it half ass can be detrimental. So hopefully you get lucky

Okay lets consider this vtec head swap for a second, I understand that its the same money either buying the head or rebuilding my current b18 head.
I know where I could get a gsr head for 300.
Then I would spend about 200 dollars on the sandwich plate kit and have to tap the head still, o believe.
Eventually get a replacement oil pump and water pump. Another 100
I'm also building it on stock internals and old crankshaft bearings as we all know.

It just sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, if this option were more feasible at this time I would do it.

But that one and done mentality sounds more appealing by building the ls/vtec with forged internals or at least gsr rods and a water pump that won't fail and so on.

As far as the 'rebuild' you're right, no we didn't replace the thrust washer, or check clearances, replace the oil pump, and so on. No we didn't use assembly lube (id be willing to of bought most of these things except the oil pump had I know). I had class when he put the head back on, but even I know how to torque a head (though never had) I couldn't imagine that he did that wrong.

If you can make this option slightly more appealing or cost efficient versus getting my LS head rebuilt then id go that route.
Potentially I have another 500 dollars to work with. I have a friend helping me with the cash but I don't care too much for asking for the max amount they'll lend me, yah know?
I suppose money woes are less relevant to the engine problem, but the budget should still be minded.


From what I've read its possible to go ls/vtec without replacing the oil and water pump, it would take me probably two months after said head swap to do the water pump properly (22 finned) and upto 5 months with the original oil pump before replacing it (unless failure occurred). The more I look into tapping the head, the easier it looks to do.

If it is really just the sandwich plate kit (found pricing around 150 including head gasket), 20 dollars for valve cover gasket, and 300as a stated for the gsr head then I guess I could go thos route. I already have ARP head stud bolts.
What else would be required? If absolutely necessary I could get the money for the water pump, but I really don't want to have to drop the oil pan again..lol.
Wouldn't I also need a gsr intake? And would my current header(or the one I just bought meant for b series) still bolt up?
I'm doing more convincing at this point.

 

[DonJulio]

If your up to the task. Build the LsV head.

All new oem or go aftermarket in the valvetrain.

Skunk2 cams over itr just because it's cheaper.

Itr pistons

You must get a vtec oil pump minimum.

All those mods will make a bitchin lsv.

Tune, add a rev limiter for the LS bottom end so it doesn't blow. Lower the vtec engagement point and enjoy the torque.

I always preferred the ease of spinning tires over chasing the redline.

 

[JordanB21]

If your up to the task. Build the LsV head.

All new oem or go aftermarket in the valvetrain.

Skunk2 cams over itr just because it's cheaper.

Itr pistons

You must get a vtec oil pump minimum.

All those mods will make a b****in lsv.

Tune, add a rev limiter for the LS bottom end so it doesn't blow. Lower the vtec engagement point and enjoy the torque.

I always preferred the ease of spinning tires over chasing the redline.

I get what oure saying and all of that is basically wanted to do on a stand, but doing any of that ignores my current needs which is a reliable ride. The ls/v was set for the future and I only just now started considering it because as nick pointed out, why rebuild the b18 head when I could go vtec.
We'll see, I'm talking to some people with vtec heads right now.

 

[Nick_C78]

Dude just keep oil in your current motor and itll be fine. Itll last you until you save up enough to do it right. Just keep her lubed.

 

[JordanB21]

Check this shit out.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/4553505076.html

Guy said he was cleaning out his garage and that the head just needs to be resurfaced.
"head comes from a gsr motor that I bought at johns imports local junk yard"
I'll have the machine shop look it over as well.
One question I have is would valve stems from a b18 head fit/work on a vtec head?
Even includes a type r oil pump.

I might've found a sandwich plate kit locally too for 50 from a friend. So we'll see.
Anything I should look for?
Says I'll need a vtec solenoid and a distributor though to do the swap.

 

[DonJulio]

LS valve stems are larger then most hondas.

Don't skip on these, get some supertech viton valve seals, it's like $20 online. Local oem grade seals from autozone are crap.

Either use new genuine oem or performance brand viton seals, I used the oem grade viton seals from local auto stores and they were all junk and oblong.

You need all components correct for the head, either obd1 or 2 dizzy and ecu, solenoid doesn't have to match either obd it is independent of that I believe.

Depending on the engine, I know the LS has saturated injectors so it doesn't need a resistor box, but if a b16/gsr head does use a resistor box and resistor dependant injectors I suggest grabbing those as well.


If the heads in good condition with a slight rebuild it's not a bad deal. Make sure your able to source the IM and all necessary parts for cheap or it might be better just to buy a whole top end swap as a package.