write-ups

HKDxSAVIER

New Member
has anyone found a write up for taking off a b16 head of a b20 block?

i heard there is a certain order on taking off the head bolts?
 
has anyone found a write up for taking off a b16 head of a b20 block?

i heard there is a certain order on taking off the head bolts?
No, there isnt an order you have to take them off in. Just make sure you tighten them down in the correct order and the correct torque increments to the proper spec.
Also, if you dont have ARP head studs, now would be the opportune time to install them.
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Actually Paden, there is a sequence. You loosen them 1/3 of a turn until they are all loose. It helps prevent warpage.

Sequence for a B18B1/A1: (Most likely the same for a VTEC head. You can download a manual of your own from HondaHookup.com)

Distributor side: 1 | 5 | 9 | 7 | 3 :Timing belt side
Distributor side: 2 | 6 |10| 8 | 4 :Timing belt side

Imagine you are looking at the front of the motor. Place the numbers on the bolts as you look at it. Follow that sequence, 1/3 of a turn each, until they are all loose.
 
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When I pulled my LSV apart, I didn't bother with that shit. Plus, he's got another thread about how he's getting head studs. I wouldn't reuse stock head bolts anyway. That's just a personal preference though.
He should also have the head decked before it goes back on. Maybe the block too if it needs it.
 


HKDxSAVIER

New Member
whats decked and yeah my arp's are on the way thank god lol....

im never going to let anyone do my shit ever im going to research and get help from now on
unless its tunning...

later i want to replace the bearing that your sopposed to replace to safely spin the b20 up too 8500.
is that hard?

thanks usefull shit mirror better safe then sorrry

since im going to be pulling of my head i can also see if my valves are messd up too huh?
 
whats decked and yeah my arp's are on the way thank god lol....

im never going to let anyone do my shit ever im going to research and get help from now on
unless its tunning...

later i want to replace the bearing that your sopposed to replace to safely spin the b20 up too 8500.
is that hard?

thanks usefull shit mirror better safe then sorrry

since im going to be pulling of my head i can also see if my valves are messd up too huh?
Decking is a process done at a machine shop that levels the bottom of the head so that it mates flush to the block.

Its not the bearings that need to be replaced, its the rod bolts.
 

HKDxSAVIER

New Member
rod bolts gotcha.
that process hard?
or just alot of time and labor to take it off and replace and put back together sounds like it lol

yeah i think i do need that because my heads leaking and its a new gasket?

how much will that run me?
 


Tam4511

CI BOOST FIEND
no, you just put studs in (turn by hand until tight), then tighten the rod nuts in there correct order and torque specs. its extremely simple

i got my arp head studs for about 100, and a new head gasket will go from 75-100 ( got the Felpro 3 layer solid steel high compression head gasket cause im boosted it was like 80 for the whole head gasket and seal kit, came with every gasket for the head)
 
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uso_Dc

New Member
ya but since your down there i would replace with some ACL bearings, why not and would make that swap that much more reliable at such a high RPM.
 

DumaDa9

New Member
Do you have someone with experience around to help you? because i wouldnt suggest to anyone doing internal work on a motor alone without experience
 

HKDxSAVIER

New Member
i can still use that head gasket right even though im low comp. and not boosted...

i might boost later on down the road

i also found a golden eagle head gasket but its $119.99 FREE S&H
is it worth paying that money for that gasket?
 
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i can still use that head gasket right even though im low comp. and not boosted...

i might boost later on down the road

i also found a golden eagle head gasket but its $119.99 FREE S&H
is it worth paying that money for that gasket?
You shouldn't re-use a headgasket.
 
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