For those all motor guys

00GSRfullbuild

New Member
In my signature you can find my parts list. That is currently what i am running. I am looking for more power tho, as you can tell the numbers are exactly jaw dropping. What can i do? Different Intake? Larger TB, like a 70 or 74mm? New racing crankpully?

N/a builds kinda just fell into my lap n now that i have one, i really want to make it just nasty. So help me out guys, review my current parts and tell me what to change or add in order to try and get lik 260 out at the wheels. Then i wount be complaing....
 

Tam4511

CI BOOST FIEND
wow this is why n/a builds arent efficient...if you threw a turbo on it i gurrantee youll be making 400 with all of those parts. you could prbly run 15-20psi probably more because you upgraded your internals
 

00GSRfullbuild

New Member
Yes tru, but there is a differance between a car someone drives on the street and one that is driven at the track.

I drive this car every now and then, but its purpose is mostly autox.

With that said, there is much more races i qualify for being in a car with a n/a motor.

There is only a few turbo or forced induction classes, and those cars are full out shells with gutted insides.

Again, i am keeping mine street driveable but autox ready.

Yes you are 100% right tho, if i was just looking for numbers that looked cool and sounded sweet i would have done a turbo build.

I never understood y ppl even response to post when they dont even answer the question asked, they rather bash the person for what they have done... next time u post mayb add some insite to the post if you could
 

phatintegra

Banned
The only way your going to get around 260 out of the wheel on N/A is going ITBs and then shooting Spray. Or you can just swap in a K motor.

Maybe 70mm TB then again it may be to big but some 1 can shy some light.

I'm guessing you had your head ported and did a valve angle job?
 


Last edited:

TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
260whp all motor is insane, I doubt you'll be able to reach that, and even if you did it wouldn't be remotely streetable.
Are you sure your Apexi N1 is 2.5 inches?, they're 2.36 last I knew.

-You could get larger/higher compression pistons, bore out the cylinders more, have them sleeved if your going larger than 81.5mm.

-Increase the TB diameter, but not alot, like 68mm - 70mm maximum. Be sure the TB is portmatched to the IM.

-Larger cams, like Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 2, Jun Type 4. Prepare for some rough idle.

-Thinner headgasket can raise the compression a bit, but make sure you still have some piston to valve clearance for the big dome pistons and huge cam lobes pushing those valve heads way down onto the combustion chamber, heh.
 

00GSRfullbuild

New Member
I was already going to add spray but that was just for the strip days.

I was looking at ITB's but again i think that is for a car that just goes on the strip. Since each TB opens at the sametime, which in reality ud need every other 1 to open together because of how the pistons operate.

I have seen a few ppl with post sayin they are makin 300 n/a hp. I didnt think they had spray but mayb thats there numbers with spary?

This blows haha, guess its time to start my k24/20 turbo build on my EP then....
 

phatintegra

Banned
^ You can use them on the street as long there tune right. Lot's of people are running ITBs on the street and I be one of them by summer.
 


00GSRfullbuild

New Member
TegSox said:
260whp all motor is insane, I doubt you'll be able to reach that, and even if you did it wouldn't be remotely streetable.
Are you sure your Apexi N1 is 2.5 inches?, they're 2.36 last I knew.

-You could get larger/higher compression pistons, bore out the cylinders more, have them sleeved if your going larger than 81.5mm.

-Increase the TB diameter, but not alot, like 68mm - 70mm maximum. Be sure the TB is portmatched to the IM.

-Larger cams, like Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 2, Jun Type 4. Prepare for some rough idle.

-Thinner headgasket can raise the compression a bit, but make sure you still have some piston to valve clearance for the big dome pistons and huge cam lobes pushing those valve heads way down onto the combustion chamber, heh.
Click to expand...
Your the man veryy helpful tips!
-Yea idk what the exact size of the Apexi exhaust is as i didnt research it that deeply.

-I was considering around a 83mm bore. I was told that even with sleeves 84mm will be pushing it alot.

-I was going to go with a BLOX 70mm TB cuz the port on the Skunk mani is 75mm

-Im not 100% sure, but i think the Buddy Club stage 4 cams are about as big as they get. Is this information incorrect?

-For the head gasket, agian not 100% sure but i think its the OE gasket, so isnt that as thin as they come? I kno the Mugen gasket is actually thicker.

If i was to change my cams, i have heard alot of good things about the Toda Spec B cams...
 

00GSRfullbuild

New Member
Your last post b4 mine about the ITB's

So your saying you can safely run ITB's if you are tuned to the T?

I have neptune so would that eaisly help comply the ITB's?

Or would i want to pick up S300
 

phatintegra

Banned
Toda are great cams and there headers as well.

If your running Neptune I heard people are making more power with eCtune over Chrome and Neptune. I'm running eCtune with my set up. If you can get your hand on Hondata S300 that might be your better option. For me I don't have much option with my set up.
 
Last edited:

00GSRfullbuild

New Member
Ok, well i am going to look into the ITB's a lil further, and see if i can find spec B cams for less than 1200 haha. Mayb start lookin at some different engine management as well.

You where real helpful man thanks for your thoughts.
 

TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
00GSRfullbuild said:
-Yea idk what the exact size of the Apexi exhaust is as i didnt research it that deeply.

-I was considering around a 83mm bore. I was told that even with sleeves 84mm will be pushing it alot.

-I was going to go with a BLOX 70mm TB cuz the port on the Skunk mani is 75mm

-Im not 100% sure, but i think the Buddy Club stage 4 cams are about as big as they get. Is this information incorrect?

-For the head gasket, agian not 100% sure but i think its the OE gasket, so isnt that as thin as they come? I kno the Mugen gasket is actually thicker.

If i was to change my cams, i have heard alot of good things about the Toda Spec B cams...
Click to expand...
You definitley want a full 2.5 inch exhaust, that 0.14 inches of diameter does make a difference.

If the IM have a 75mm port, then you want to get an IM with a smaller port, one that will match within 0.5mm the port of the TB. You need them to match for maximum quality of airflow.

Check out the VTEC camshafts specs thread HERE. Toda B's are smaller than your BC's. Plud because they have non-staggered non-VTEC lobes they eat regular timing belts. That too - get yourself a Toda timing belt.

Mugen and Spoon headgaskets are both thinner than the 3 layer OEM gasket.
 

phatintegra

Banned
No problem

As for the ITBs you can look into Toda, KWM Induction and Spec-A (very rare and hard to find).

As for OBX I head from allot of people stating that are exacly the same design as the Toda. Just to give you heads up and the OBX run about $600 on ebay.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top