For those all motor guys

[BigMac88]

Woooord those look sexy mate.

I was going to get the entire exhaust replaced so i will do that. I want to get that Vibrant black stock looking muffler that thing is sweet.

Dylan is right. A general rule of thumb for exhaust is don't bottle-neck it. If you're going to use 2.5" tubing then use a 2.5"+ muffler with a relatively non-restrictive flow.

The intake isnt tapered. I was going to get my guy to just make me one after i got my new TB so i will tell him to tapper it, i didnt kno it speeded up airflow, i actualy thought it tappered would be worst.

He meant the pistons are tapered.

Also, you mentioned your friend making you an intake manifold (at least I think that's what you were talking about it wasn't too clear to me :lol. Those giant hand-made IM's that most people make are glorified metal boxes with tubes are not necessarily the most efficient for an all-motor build. On an FI car they work because you're simply aiming to dump as much air as possible into the motor. On an NA car, you're only using the motor's natural vacuum so you need to think of velocity and the vacuum of the motor.

Edelbrock, Skunk2, and Blox all make nice manifolds for the B18C1. The Edelbrock is the best in terms of pure volume. Your build seems aggressive enough to utilize it.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

Edelbrock, Skunk2, and Blox all make nice manifolds for the B18C1. The Edelbrock is the best in terms of pure volume. Your build seems aggressive enough to utilize it.

this is true. If you are revving to 10+ rev range the victor X is perfect if its less than that the Preformer X is good for you

 

[00GSRfullbuild]

I was refering to the GSR head. Mines is ported +1 and someone made mention that it shouldnt be with my high compression, so i was just saying my buddy may be interested in trading me for his stock head.

I have a skunk2 pro mani that has been ported on it. I think the inlet where the TB connects to it is a 75mm port.

I just ordered the BLOX 74mm TB and a P2R 74MM TB Gasket, so that should help with my intake issue and give me a lil extra hp.

My intake is crap, but is atleast a 3" pipe and has a k&n cone, after i get the TB on i am going to pick up a Password JDM powerchamber intake.

With all that said i should get my lil extra i am looking for, get it retuned and see where i am at.

I have a n1 catback on it, but someone said they think its only lik 2.34" not 2.5 so i need to figure that out.

I had skunk2 catback on my EP and i loved it so i will keep that in mind also.

Hoping to dyno like 225whp mayb 230 if i am that awesome lol.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

I was refering to the GSR head. Mines is ported +1 and someone made mention that it shouldnt be with my high compression, so i was just saying my buddy may be interested in trading me for his stock head.

I have a skunk2 pro mani that has been ported on it. I think the inlet where the TB connects to it is a 75mm port.

I just ordered the BLOX 74mm TB and a P2R 74MM TB Gasket, so that should help with my intake issue and give me a lil extra hp.

My intake is crap, but is atleast a 3" pipe and has a k&n cone, after i get the TB on i am going to pick up a Password JDM powerchamber intake.

With all that said i should get my lil extra i am looking for, get it retuned and see where i am at.

I have a n1 catback on it, but someone said they think its only lik 2.34" not 2.5 so i need to figure that out.

I had skunk2 catback on my EP and i loved it so i will keep that in mind also.

Hoping to dyno like 225whp mayb 230 if i am that awesome lol.

2.36" exhaust is too small for your set up

 

[00GSRfullbuild]

s%$# crap balls.:twisted:

Well i need to get that fixed asap then i guess.

Its really retarding my setup it seems.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

whats restricting your entire build would be your
intake
exhaust
cat
and possibly header


maximum power is created from a good intake system with tb and im set up with a good header and exhaust system with a test pipe or high flow cat

 

[00GSRfullbuild]

Ok well my soon to be as soon as it comes step up will be as follows

-My intake is currently 75mm
-Iv ordered a 74mm TB to match with my 75mm manifold.
-My header is the kiddracing header but its is bent at the bottom from bottoming out, so i was looking at Buddy Club or Skunk ones.
-When i replaced the header i was going to do a strait threw cat (for inspections) and get the skunk2 70mm catback system.

With all that in play, i hope that will resolve all my restriction issues and i will be good

 

[Samurai_Blue]

you should be good :thumbs up and in the all motor section i wrote up something about headers and the quality of a good one vs knock off brands if you were interested.

 

[00GSRfullbuild]

you should be good :thumbs up and in the all motor section i wrote up something about headers and the quality of a good one vs knock off brands if you were interested.

Duh yo naturally i am !8) Im gonna check it out now.

I see your sig it shows you autox, you do that much? Thats wat i am trying to get involved in like for real.

 

[Tam4511]

Yes tru, but there is a differance between a car someone drives on the street and one that is driven at the track.

I drive this car every now and then, but its purpose is mostly autox.

With that said, there is much more races i qualify for being in a car with a n/a motor.

There is only a few turbo or forced induction classes, and those cars are full out shells with gutted insides.

Again, i am keeping mine street driveable but autox ready.

Yes you are 100% right tho, if i was just looking for numbers that looked cool and sounded sweet i would have done a turbo build.

I never understood y ppl even response to post when they dont even answer the question asked, they rather bash the person for what they have done... next time u post mayb add some insite to the post if you could

i wansn't bashing you.... and thats the only answer i can see, unless you want to go buy a k20 and build it...from what you said you've done a lot to your motor and want something that will increase hp dramatically and fast...and the only thing that will do that is a turbo...i didn't know you wanted it for a specific autox class. and you said in your origional post you wanted impressive numbers so... maybe next time you will build a motor knowing what your going to get out of it instead of throwing parts at it and hoping it will start to fly...

I think the word you are searching for is easy, not efficient. Without going into a huge detailed tangent...

In terms of pure efficiency, I'd have to disagree with you. With a turbo, you're dumping shitloads of air and fuel into a motor to make power. Building an NA motor to make lots of useable power - fine-tuned to the limit - is actually the more efficient solution. There is no more air being added to the motor than what it can naturally induct. So creating a good amount of power within those parameters is much more difficult.


OP, if you're doing autocross or even track events do you really need more power than what you have? I think 211whp is almost the perfect amount of NA power for a road course Integra.

and i wasn't talking about that kind of efficiency....your throwing thousands of dollars into your engine and making 40 more hp? that doesn't sound efficient...
while you can put around 4-5 grand into a boost setup and upgrade some internals and have 350-400hp
-plus boost improves fuel economy (if your not on it all of the time) and a good boost setup puts the same amount of torque across the band that the n/a would barley put out at peak....

 

[Samurai_Blue]

Duh yo naturally i am !8) Im gonna check it out now.

I see your sig it shows you autox, you do that much? Thats wat i am trying to get involved in like for real.

i auto x for fun im joining scca because they auto x like 20 min from me but i do mostly road racing

 

[TegSox]

You must get a header with a 2.5 inch diameter collector. Keep that in mind.

Mugen Gymkhama (JDM)
Spoon
Toda
Apexi JDM spec (not USDM)
Hytech
SMSP
Type One Racing
Jun
Comptech Racing header (not the basic Comptech)
OEM JDM ITR

And who on here suggested you get a 74mm TB, that is massive for an all motor engine. You "think" your IM port is 75mm, I'd wanna be sure of that before I went spending money on a TB that may be the wrong thing I need. You probably shouldn't be getting a larger TB....you should get a new IM with a smaller port. Can you port out the TB you already have, or has it already been ported?

I found this on Team Integra.net:
The best way to find out if your TB is too small for your IM plenum is to determine what the intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is reading (in the plenum) when you are at full throttle ( or wide open throttle (WOT) ) while the car is accelerating using a datalogger. The MAP should be equal to, or close to, atmospheric pressure. If it isn't or there is a MAP drop at WOT, then your TB is still too small.

 

[00GSRfullbuild]

i wansn't bashing you.... and thats the only answer i can see, unless you want to go buy a k20 and build it...from what you said you've done a lot to your motor and want something that will increase hp dramatically and fast...and the only thing that will do that is a turbo...i didn't know you wanted it for a specific autox class. and you said in your origional post you wanted impressive numbers so... maybe next time you will build a motor knowing what your going to get out of it instead of throwing parts at it and hoping it will start to fly...



and i wasn't talking about that kind of efficiency....your throwing thousands of dollars into your engine and making 40 more hp? that doesn't sound efficient...
while you can put around 4-5 grand into a boost setup and upgrade some internals and have 350-400hp
-plus boost improves fuel economy (if your not on it all of the time) and a good boost setup puts the same amount of torque across the band that the n/a would barley put out at peak....

First my man, i didnt build the motor, so me knowing nothing about it would seem nothing more than normal. I know a all motor kseries can push near 300whp i seen'd it.

So mayb next time check the rest of the thread and you would see that i said the car was given to me in a trade, your attempt at insult was worthless (people and there attempt to cyberbully is beyond rediculous) - Please dont post in threads i created without helping, insults and poor opinions can be kept to oneself. I am on hear to learn about my car, not hear what i did wrong and why, thanks tho Dr. Phil. I asked for help with my all motor build, not what i did wrong in life and why my set up is a failure because of your conservative opinion about turbos.

Obviously anyone with somewhat of brain wouldnt just start dump thousands without knoin WTF is even goin on. Im beyond that point

Turbo will blow up a motor before a properly tuned and installed n/a build so keep tryin ha

 

[BigMac88]

and i wasn't talking about that kind of efficiency....your throwing thousands of dollars into your engine and making 40 more hp? that doesn't sound efficient...
while you can put around 4-5 grand into a boost setup and upgrade some internals and have 350-400hp
-plus boost improves fuel economy (if your not on it all of the time) and a good boost setup puts the same amount of torque across the band that the n/a would barley put out at peak....

When talking about motors, the only efficiencies in discussion is combustion and heat efficiency. For X amount of air, you add Y amount of fuel and burn Z, which is that mixture. When building an NA motor the goal is to burn as close to 100% of Z as possible while maximizing intake and exhaust vacuum (which is why a well-designed header and a cold intake charge are so important).

What you're talking about is cost effectiveness. More specifically the costower ratio. That in no way has to do with an efficient combustion, heat, or gas transfer. Forced Induction in no way improves fuel economy Idk where you got that from. The very principle of FI (or any performance setup for that matter) would denote that it doesn't. When it comes to motors more air = more fuel. That's how power is made with an FI setup. You force more air in so you can use more fuel to create a more powerful burn. Turbo theory 101. Before you start spouting information, think :thumbs up

The other thing to think about is the kind of power you want to make and what kind of driving you'll be doing. If you're shooting for a drag car and want to make peak horsepower cheaply (relatively) boost is a good option. If you're making a track car or auto-x car you want to maximize your throttle response. 400whp isn't needed to go fast through twisties and can - quite frankly - be a cumbersome amount of power on a FWD. I run a GSR with bolt-ons and I walk all over cars with twice the power.

When it come to touge, auto-x, or track driving: technique + tires + good throttle response > peak power. A balanced car is a fast car.

 

[00GSRfullbuild]

When talking about motors, the only efficiencies in discussion is combustion and heat efficiency. For X amount of air, you add Y amount of fuel and burn Z, which is that mixture. When building an NA motor the goal is to burn as close to 100% of Z as possible while maximizing intake and exhaust vacuum (which is why a well-designed header and a cold intake charge are so important).

What you're talking about is cost effectiveness. More specifically the costower ratio. That in no way has to do with an efficient combustion, heat, or gas transfer. Forced Induction in no way improves fuel economy Idk where you got that from. The very principle of FI (or any performance setup for that matter) would denote that it doesn't. When it comes to motors more air = more fuel. That's how power is made with an FI setup. You force more air in so you can use more fuel to create a more powerful burn. Turbo theory 101. Before you start spouting information, think :thumbs up

The other thing to think about is the kind of power you want to make and what kind of driving you'll be doing. If you're shooting for a drag car and want to make peak horsepower cheaply (relatively) boost is a good option. If you're making a track car or auto-x car you want to maximize your throttle response. 400whp isn't needed to go fast through twisties and can - quite frankly - be a cumbersome amount of power on a FWD. I run a GSR with bolt-ons and I walk all over cars with twice the power.

When it come to touge, auto-x, or track driving: technique + tires + good throttle response > peak power. A balanced car is a fast car.

I wish i was a smart as you that was so well put. I in fact am interested souly in auto-x so thats the reason for this type of build.

As for the mani. The skunk website stated it was a 75mm port. So, i deceided to go with a 74mm TB and see how it worked. It was only 250 so cost isnt much of a issue.