forged internals help!

[FanegedWolf3]

hey guys! i have a 96 teg RS and i wanta turbo that bad to. my first step engine wise is to rebuild the block. and i am new to this stuff and i am trying to learn i did some searching and i could not find a guide about this topic the pros and cons cost ext. all i know is that this is a really good rout when you turbo a Integra. the motor has 176xxx miles on it so if this is done should i be good with out blowing the engine up?

thanks for your help/ PLEASE TELL ME IF I AM WRONG ABOUT SOME THING! i am new to all of this and just trying to learn also is there any tips you guys have on my project?

1996 integra rs B18b1
stock everything with exception of the cold air intake and full cat back exhausted system
i wanta build this car in to a auto cross car/road race/daylie driver.

 

[phatintegra]

It depends on how much boost (PSI)?

 

[White_Rabbit]

b18b1 blocks are cheap to come by. I would pick up a short block or maybe even a long block if you get a good deal. Then put a set of rods and pistons in it that way you have less downtime when you pull your motor. Just pull your motor slap your head on it and you're good to go. Way less downtime. Also I would recommend boring your block .20 over. Its not so much of a power upgrade but it really helps clean up the cylinder walls and ensures you have a good round surface.

When you have any machine work done they're going to want the pistons. Thats why I say get you a spare block cheap. Take your rods and pistons to the machine shop and let them bore it and install them. It wont run you very much at all and you'll be way happier in the long run. Titanmotorsports was running a good deal for a rod/pistons combo. They still might be. I can also get you rods and or pistons if you're interested. Hit me up at Rabbit@TopEndUSA.com I also have a set of civic type R pistons bored .20 over brand new in the box i'm letting go cheap. Although they are prolly a lil high compression for a boosted motor.

Good luck keep us updated.

 

[FanegedWolf3]

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It depends on how much boost (PSI)?

i have read that seting a psi goal and a hp goal isnt really a great idea but if i had to i would like to have at least 300+++ and up i want to make this thing fast.

When you have any machine work done they're going to want the pistons. Thats why I say get you a spare block cheap. Take your rods and pistons to the machine shop and let them bore it and install them. It wont run you very much at all and you'll be way happier in the long run. Titanmotorsports was running a good deal for a rod/pistons combo. They still might be. I can also get you rods and or pistons if you're interested. Hit me up at Rabbit@TopEndUSA.com I also have a set of civic type R pistons bored .20 over brand new in the box i'm letting go cheap. Although they are prolly a lil high compression for a boosted motor.

so i should go nad get a new bottom end why? what is wrong with my bottom end i dont really nkow why i would od that....

Does anyone have a gudie on FORGED INTERNALS? so i can read and not jsut guess about this stuff by asking questions. thanks

 

[guiltyxxspark]

PSI doesn't matter all that much when building the engine. It all revolves around your setup. What parts yours using. If two cars are running 15 PSI with completely different setups (turbo size, BOV, waste gate, etc.) they will have different power gains. First, you need to decide what power numbers you want and go from there.

 

[FanegedWolf3]

well idk how much hp i need (i jsut wanta go fast) but i got some friends that have mustans and i wanta beet them in a race so lets say around 350 to 400 hp

i wanta this car to be a:
everyday drive (every day) haha
auto cross (the most)
maby High school drags...race against my tm i pick...(one time)
then road track car. (one time a year maby two)

 

[phatintegra]

The reasson I ask him is you can run a stock motor 8psi fully tuned. If his goal is 300+ I would recomend to sleeve the block, rods, low compression piston, bearings, etc.

 

[heykosal]

Forged Internals:

Good- strong, handle higher combustion pressures(read:boost)

Cons- expensive, including parts and labor if you can't do it yourself. don't forget you'll most likely need to have the block honed and decked. not to mentioned hot-tanked to clean off 10+ years of gunk. on top of that you're going to need to buy a bunch of small oem parts to put it all back together. little gaskets and seals and such.

 

[FanegedWolf3]

mk do they sell this in a kit. i have seen stuff on ebay but i am not sure waht i am lookiung for. and around how much are we talking? just a ball park estiment...

 

[White_Rabbit]

i have read that seting a psi goal and a hp goal isnt really a great idea but if i had to i would like to have at least 300+++ and up i want to make this thing fast.



so i should go nad get a new bottom end why? what is wrong with my bottom end i dont really nkow why i would od that....

Does anyone have a gudie on FORGED INTERNALS? so i can read and not jsut guess about this stuff by asking questions. thanks

You quoted my post but failed to read it. You can pick up an LS bottom end dirt cheap. Reason being is, i'll bold it this time, You can build it up while you still drive your car. Then pull your motor and drop the head on new block. You'll have very little down time for this Then sell your other block and re-coupe your money. unless you have another car you can drive then disregard completely.

 

[mirrorimg]

mk do they sell this in a kit. i have seen stuff on ebay but i am not sure waht i am lookiung for. and around how much are we talking? just a ball park estiment...

LOL like $2000 for the block to be built. Another $2000 for the turbo. Another $500+ for the tune and engine management.

Learn how to spell. At least try to make yourself sound like an intelligent person.

I'm pretty sure you need to sleeve the block if you use forged pistons. I don't think aluminum pistons like cast iron cylinder walls.

 

[White_Rabbit]

LOL like $2000 for the block to be built. Another $2000 for the turbo. Another $500+ for the tune and engine management.

Learn how to spell. At least try to make yourself sound like an intelligent person.

I'm pretty sure you need to sleeve the block if you use forged pistons. I don't think aluminum pistons like cast iron cylinder walls.

Thats a pretty hefty built motor. Like I said I don't know if they still are but Titanmotorsports.com was running a rods and piston combo. Get a set of good rods and pistons for 4 cyl motor for 600 out the door shipped. It may have been 400 don't quote me. Check em out and find out for yourself.

 

[Tam4511]

i want to do something like this, i already have turbo on my stock ls, now i just want to build my engine, but its so dam expensive lol

 

[heykosal]

I'm pretty sure you need to sleeve the block if you use forged pistons. I don't think aluminum pistons like cast iron cylinder walls.

Because the expansion rates are different. This is the same reason why regular forged pistons wouldn't work with FRM liners.

That's why people should use forged steel pistons with steel liners.

And yes, it would be ideal to purchase a spare block to build so you can still drive your car around. Then when you're finished building, you can drop the built motor in and sell the stock one.
OR better yet, buy a spare whole engine, drop that in, build the original. That way your numbers will still match.

 

[mirrorimg]

Thats a pretty hefty built motor. Like I said I don't know if they still are but Titanmotorsports.com was running a rods and piston combo. Get a set of good rods and pistons for 4 cyl motor for 600 out the door shipped. It may have been 400 don't quote me. Check em out and find out for yourself.

I don't think so. I paid about 500 in machine work on my bottom end, and that was a little more than a stock build, plus all of the parts for the bottom came out to about $1000.

For him...
-Deck, hot tank ($60)

-Forged rods (When I researched these, they all came back as $300+)
-Forged pistons (When I researched these, they all came back as $400+)
-Sleeve the block (Cost of sleeve + cost of machine work for install?) ($500+?)

-Match the bore to the pistons. (I figure some honing/boring must be done to get the tolerances right) ($100)
-Machine the crank $70
-Replace all of the serviceable bottom end items (Pretty much just the Oil pump, Bearings, gaskets, seals) ($200+)


So I guess thats about $1600, but then again we don't know if the OP is going to do the work himself, or let me machine shop do the assembly. My shop was going to charge me $70 an hour for assembly.


Other things not necessarily related to the bottom but still should be taken care of:
-Replace all other serviceable items (timing belt, tensioner, valvestem seals, gaskets, headgasket, valve job, valve guides, etc.) (More $$)