Weird noise between 4-4500rpm and no vtec help!!

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
It keeps your vtec rocker arms from flopping around, uses oil pressure to hold them up against the cam lobe.
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Depends what the issue is, tuning doesn't have anything to do with the lma assemblies.

They need to be replaced if they are bad. Honda made new ones at some point that use spings instead of the hydraulic units, these are much better and more reliable.
 


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Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
It's pretty easy to replace.

Put at TDC
Pull off the valve cover
Take off the timing belt
Take off the cam caps
Take out the cams
Take out the distributor
Take out the vtec solenoid
Remove the rocker guide pins
Remove the rocker guides
Remove the rocker arms
Remove the old lost motion assemblies
Install the new lost motion assemblies
Put it all back together.

I may have missed one or two things and of course you need to take it apart properly and put it all back together properly. This includes not switching the location of the cam caps, rocker arms, etc.
 

Metalmanalec

New Member
Thanks a lot for your help. Ill be checking it out/replacing it when I put my skunk2 tuner series cams on. Ill post if that fixes it
 

Nick_C78

New Member
First things first...why did you/are you breaking in a built motor without a tune? Or better yet, why are you smashing on it without a tune, yet alone even driving the damn thing... Change the plugs, get it tuned, and pray you didn't glaze your rings.

Oh and check your oil level. Sometimes fresh motors burn oil until the rings seal properly. If your oil is low, vtec won't engage. Also if you have a CEL your vtec won't work. You haven't provided much information. Worst case scenario, if it is vtec related is your vtec solenoid is bad, which could be the cause of your ticking.

The other cause of your ticking could be rod knock, also caused by not keeping an eye on your oil levels/improper clearances(if you don't know what you are doing when building) when it was built, but rod knock is usually pretty consistent, just louder at higher rpms. I highly recommend getting a mechanics stethoscope and try to isolate the location of the noise before driving it more to make sure it isn't rod knock or even a valve issue. Just my opinion.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
Aussie said:
It's pretty easy to replace.

Put at TDC
Pull off the valve cover
Take off the timing belt
Take off the cam caps
Take out the cams
Take out the distributor
Take out the vtec solenoid
Remove the rocker guide pins
Remove the rocker guides
Remove the rocker arms
Remove the old lost motion assemblies
Install the new lost motion assemblies
Put it all back together.

I may have missed one or two things and of course you need to take it apart properly and put it all back together properly. This includes not switching the location of the cam caps, rocker arms, etc.
Click to expand...
You got the gist of it. Man I haven't heard about one of these issues in such a long time. I would be shocked if that is the issue... Very good idea on your guys part though :thumbs up . I wouldn't have thought of that with the little info provided.
 

Metalmanalec

New Member
It cant be rod knock. How would it be that if it only does it in gear when driving? And it's not the tranny or clutch. The sound is def coming from the motor. And it seems like it's coming from the head
 

Rattlecan Hero

Frame Banger
Like Nick said, there is really no reason to drive the car until its tuned. I just swapped a high comp LS into my tegg and only drove it around the block just make sure it ran correctly. I just got my chipped ECU and I'm still in the process of breaking in my motor. You also need to change your oil every 500 miles until you hit 1500 miles then change it again at 3000 miles. After that you can start changing it in normal 3k intervals.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
Metalmanalec said:
It cant be rod knock. How would it be that if it only does it in gear when driving? And it's not the tranny or clutch. The sound is def coming from the motor. And it seems like it's coming from the head
Click to expand...
I hinted in my post that it likely isn't rod knock. I only listed it because it can make the sound you are describing, but the pattern is a little strange. However to go off of what you said there about it cant be rod knock because it only does it in gear... it technically still can be rod knock. I have personally had rod knocks that are soo quiet at idle and only became distinct at higher RPM while in gear. Putting a car in gear increases the load on the motor.

Here was my culprit:


Like I said though I don't believe your particular case is rod knock. I think it is what the others suggested about the LMA.
 
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