Search results

Im not exactly sure on why but it may have something to do with the plugs on the obd0 harness not working with the obd2 manifold. Do you have an obd0 distributor yet? Now I'm talking about the engine bracket with the stud sticking up out of it that bolts to the motor mount, not the actual motor...

This is exactly what I was going to tell you to do. You'll want to swap the entire intake manifold and I have an obd0 intake manifold with fuel rail, injectors, throttle body, iacv, fitv etc... if you want it, make an offer. I had an obd0 distributor too but I gotta find it. On the swap...

A b16 ecu will work. Very simple to change out. I'm thinking it will be a little easier to find one of those and maybe even a little cheaper than the b17. Once again I'm strictly guessing

Hmm so what about the c/e light? Does it go off within 1-2 seconds of turning the key to the on position? If it doesnt, leave the key in the on position and leave the car sitting for about 10 minutes and see if it goes off. If it does i bet it will crank. I know you have changed both the fuel...

It could be the ecu. When you are experiencing this problem, is the c/e light staying on with the key turned over? Do you hear the fuel pump come on at all? If you had a fuel pressure gauge that would tell you if you were getting fuel at all. I had a similar problem and it ended up being the ecu...

94 is obd1. All you need to do is use the wiring harness from your current engine. You will need to use your current intake manifold, fuel rail and injectors, and distributor. That will keep it obd-0. Also on the swap, I believe you will have to swap thermostat housings and the drivers side...

obd1 p75 or an obd1 pr4.

Well Im getting around now to the primer stage and I know I said at the beginning that I was going to use a primer that was recommended with this paint but since this stuff isnt really recommended for cars(they dont say not to use it on cars) I think Im going to use an auto primer. My question...

Thanks man

Well I finally got around today to work on the car some. I pretty much got it all stripped down except for the rear moldings and the door handles. I went ahead and painted some of the molding pieces. I used duplicolor trim paint which is supposed to give an oem look and they came out great. I...

Alright guys... I'm tired of looking at my ugly "milano red" da which hardly has a clear coat left on it so I'm going to paint it myself. I know, most people don't recommend it but anything will look better than what it does now. I work at sherwin williams and was looking through a bunch of our...

If you are talking about the charcoal canister, yes it can be removed. You have to plug the holes up where the hoses were.

Yes sir... Its just so much easier than having to install the transmission with the engine in the car.

Yea its actually easier just to remove the engine with the tranny. You just have to pull it out with more of the weight on the opposite side of the tranny so the tranny drops below the mount. Or you could just drop the engine and tranny.

Try this when you get a chance... Let the car sit overnight. Then go out to the car and put the key in the "on" position(without starting). Look to see if the c/e light goes off. If it does go off and then won't fire up, you probably do have a wiring problem. If it doesn't go off and doesn't...

If I remember right, you need a ground from the chassis to the negative battery cable and then a chassis to engine ground.

Sounds really similar to a problem I had. It wouldn't fire up after the car would sit for a long time but after it finally started, it would start right back up everytime until it sat for a while. I too replaced the fuel relay thinking that could be it but it didn't help. Tell me if it does...

There is nothing "normal" that makes the light come on. It can be anything. Just because there was a c/e light doesnt mean that the o2 sensor was bad. Thats why you pull the code to find out what the computer is trying tell you is wrong

Read the code first and then get back to us with it

I don't know if the vss is the same for an auto and manual but they had a few of them at barrys on the auto trannys. I have an extra one but the part where it bolts down to the tranny actually broke off. It still works though. I have extra flywheel and pressure plate bolts but the chances of me...