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I say get some Mugens from around the time period of the car... I found a nice set on ebay for 125 bucks BIN... They just needed cleaning and paint...

Black and yellow, dark grey, the list is endless when going custom...

I wouldn't say you will get ripped on, but just so you know, almost everyone thinks that, but it's the price they pay to have an original teg... Some of the original factory wheels cost around the same as those Mugen NRs from the factory! Seriously, stock wheels can be worth almost 2 times as...

:headbang::thumbup:

Dude, dropping the car has nothing to do with the issues, "popping up"... Basically, you had these issues before hand, and now you notice them because you didn't realize you had an issue before! I would change the rotor, do the alignment, and go from there... Popping out of gear is related to...

Konig rims are a German company... I don't really like how they look on the integra... I prefer them on VWs... lol That is just my opinion!

I don't know why, but I like the open mouth look on your teg Midori. It looks hot! Are you going to mesh it? If you do, I suggest honey comb grills... :D

He wants pictures of it. The other thread has one picture. lol Either way, I have a second Gen stock lip... It's in rough shape, and not worth taking pictures of... The driveways around here are deep because someone thought it would be cheaper than putting in grated gutters... lol Anyhow...

If anything, you can get a stiffer rear sway bar, and upgrade to the ITR front sway bar, also... It will give you "understeer" correct me if I am wrong... lol It's been so damn long since I did any kind of racing applications for any kind of car...

Well, there is your problem! lolz

I prefer to know my oil pressure, more than fuel pressure... The only time I can see needing it, is if you are running some kind of beast with 1000hp+... I have seen instances where the car would try to take more pressure than the pump could provide, thus was the need for the fuel pressure...

If your battery is continuing to do it, after you try a new battery, it's the alternator, or power wire, that goes from the alternator, to the fuse box... I have this issue on mine, and I need to replace it... It's due to corrosion, which is common!

Not in the DA style, though... I mean sticking straight to DA/DB lines of integras... Sure, there are Type R's here in the states, but usually later models, ranging 96 and newer?

For the cash, you can get a GSR engine, which is pretty much the poor man's type R, or the USDM version of the type R. In theory... From what I understand, you cannot get apples, when you have a bag of onions. Just saying... lol

This is the whole purpose of the forum! lol Tam is right about this! The ignition switch is pretty simple to replace, afaik, it is just a plug and play device, that shouldn't take more than an hour or two, if you are a regular joe... GL!

Check your fuel filter... Usually, if a car wants to start, the fuel filter will allow enough gas to enter the injectors, and give it an almost start. Basically, the bottom of your tank is a filthy place, don't worry, all of ours look the same, and doesn't matter what car you look at! The gas...

That is even more rough than my car, and it's just a run of the mill 90 GS DA... lol Then again, my car is a California car, and has never lived by the ocean, or been that abused... And mine has oil leaks, worthy of it's mileage! 328k on the clock! lol

They have something under engine, on this one... Worth a read! http://forums.g2ic.com/tegtips/

All sound ideas... I would go with the LS/V swap... If you have a little patience, which I don't, You can get some decent numbers apparently! lol

Definitely bad rings. I don't know if you paintball, but something similar happens to the O rings on a paintball gun, primarily around the bolt, which is the piece that fires the balls from the barrel. One bad ring, and air leaks out the barrel, which is a waste, and pretty much the same...